NEED HELP FAST!!! on bleeding my brakes!!!
#16
Rookie
Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice everyone. I went ahead and just bleed them like normal brakes, but only with the car running and pumping the pedal much slower (so the master cylinder won't lose pressure) and it worked!!! Now I'm ready to get some Supra TT brakes and install them!
#17
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If you pump the brakes it is normal for the warning lights and buzzer. After a certain amount of time with the pump running it expects the correct pressure to achieved but if you keep using the brakes if never does so the system thinks there is a problem with the pump. Once you stop the pressure is built up and the warning goes.
#18
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by UK_GS300
If you pump the brakes it is normal for the warning lights and buzzer. After a certain amount of time with the pump running it expects the correct pressure to achieved but if you keep using the brakes if never does so the system thinks there is a problem with the pump. Once you stop the pressure is built up and the warning goes.
If you pump the brakes it is normal for the warning lights and buzzer. After a certain amount of time with the pump running it expects the correct pressure to achieved but if you keep using the brakes if never does so the system thinks there is a problem with the pump. Once you stop the pressure is built up and the warning goes.
Ill just say that I have never seen this phenomena on either of the two Lexus I have owned 95 SC400 or 98 GS400.
The only time I have ever seen the lights go off or the buzzer was wehn I had a serious leak in the system.
#19
Lexus Champion
Buzz and Lights
Originally posted by morris
Ill just say that I have never seen this phenomena on either of the two Lexus I have owned 95 SC400 or 98 GS400.
The only time I have ever seen the lights go off or the buzzer was wehn I had a serious leak in the system.
Ill just say that I have never seen this phenomena on either of the two Lexus I have owned 95 SC400 or 98 GS400.
The only time I have ever seen the lights go off or the buzzer was wehn I had a serious leak in the system.
Not to **** you off bud, but your '95 SC400 had the conventional vacuum operated brake booster and master cylinder. Your GS has a totally different design braking system. As mentioned before, the lights and buzzer will come on to warn you that there is a problem. In your case where there is a leak, then the buzzer and lights will not turn off untill the leak is fixed. But in PandaAE86s case the pressure did drop in the accumulator because he was pumping the brakes. Causing the lights and buzzer to come on. But as soon as the pump built the pressure back up the problem was averted. Most people will never see this phenomena because we don't normally drive around pumping the brakes fast enough to use up all the pressure in the accumulator. Hope this helps you understand.
#20
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (2)
Yes I understand now, I thought he was talking about pumping the brakes up and down like at a stop light and all the lights and buzzers went off. I was just saying that I dont get that on my gs with any amouth of pedal action.
If it is different system that would explain it.
If it is different system that would explain it.
#21
Lexus Fanatic
i was searching and came across this
DO NOT have the car on if you are bleeding brakes
hell disconnect the battery if you have to
as always start fromthe furthest caliper
make sure that the brake fluid never goes below half full
pump up the brakes ......hold it ....have the other guy crack the bleeder valve ..let the fluid come out
let the 2nd guy close the valve and pump it up again ...repaet until a steady stream comes from the caliper
when you have the key on the ABS goes crazy and then air gets inthere and thats when you need to go to the dealer and have them get the air out
im going to say you got lucky that you got the air out
unless you have the tool from the dealer
DO NOT HAVE THE CAR RUNNINGWHILE YOU ARE BLEEDING THE BRAKES
DO NOT have the car on if you are bleeding brakes
hell disconnect the battery if you have to
as always start fromthe furthest caliper
make sure that the brake fluid never goes below half full
pump up the brakes ......hold it ....have the other guy crack the bleeder valve ..let the fluid come out
let the 2nd guy close the valve and pump it up again ...repaet until a steady stream comes from the caliper
when you have the key on the ABS goes crazy and then air gets inthere and thats when you need to go to the dealer and have them get the air out
im going to say you got lucky that you got the air out
unless you have the tool from the dealer
DO NOT HAVE THE CAR RUNNINGWHILE YOU ARE BLEEDING THE BRAKES
#22
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (2)
I'm not sure about your information, I have bled the brakes on my car before and if the car is not turned on it wont bleed at all, I think that only applied to the rears though. I also had the lexus guys tell me that the proecedure was to turn the car on, not neccessairly with the engine on but the power had to be on to run the booster pump or something.
#23
Lexus Fanatic
Originally Posted by morris
I'm not sure about your information, I have bled the brakes on my car before and if the car is not turned on it wont bleed at all, I think that only applied to the rears though. I also had the lexus guys tell me that the proecedure was to turn the car on, not neccessairly with the engine on but the power had to be on to run the booster pump or something.
The secret is to not ever introduce any air into any antilock brake system. You have some air lurking inside the ABS controller's internal plumbing. This gives you a spongy pedal, prevents the ABS from doing its job properly, and may well cause the brake warning light to come on.
To rid your car of this air, you'll need a scan tool that can interface with the ABS controller. It's necessary to cycle the ABS pump and valves with the scan tool to move air along to where it will be carried out of the system at the caliper bleed bolts. Generically, this involves holding your foot on the brake pedal while telling the scan tool to cycle the ABS, and then bleeding the system at each corner. The specifics of how different systems need to be treated are quite different. You'll need a shop manual and a scan tool for the correct procedure for your truck. Or maybe it's time to throw in the towel and have a shop mechanic finish your job--if you can get the car there without crashing.
It's possible to flush an ABS-equipped car's brake fluid without a scan tool. The operating principle is to keep the reservoir at least half full all the time. I use two assistants--one to pump the brake pedal while another hovers over the reservoir and keeps it topped up with fluid. Bleed until the fluid runs clear. Another solution is to use a compressed-air-powered pressure bleeder. Now that you've got air in the ABS controller, however, you'll need a scan tool to do the job properly.
#24
Lexus Test Driver
Join Date: Mar 2001
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You guys should check into speedbleeder.com they have a set up that I have used and it is almost a no brainer on bleeding the brakes. you can do it by yourself.
My only additional advice is never let the master cylinder reservoir go below low. If you ever get air into the system, it will be a big problem espescially if you have an ABS system.
Ricky
My only additional advice is never let the master cylinder reservoir go below low. If you ever get air into the system, it will be a big problem espescially if you have an ABS system.
Ricky
#25
Bleeding brake lines after SS line install
Good info on simply bleeding brakes but any special advice if replacing lines? I don't see how you can install new lines and not introduce air into the system.
#27
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
the correct way to bleed is to have car on .. it actuates the abs pump to open and close each channel /circuit for a proper bleed..
start from the furthest pass rear wheel pump 4-5 times but never all the way to the floor for building that much pressure all at once can break the internal seal on the master cly.. on the 4or 5 pump hold and let a short burst of fluid and air out
continue all around making sure reso remains full so you dont introduce air into the system
you can bleed without car on but air can get trapped within abs unit.. i have bleed several times for all the brake changes i have done on my car and others
start from the furthest pass rear wheel pump 4-5 times but never all the way to the floor for building that much pressure all at once can break the internal seal on the master cly.. on the 4or 5 pump hold and let a short burst of fluid and air out
continue all around making sure reso remains full so you dont introduce air into the system
you can bleed without car on but air can get trapped within abs unit.. i have bleed several times for all the brake changes i have done on my car and others
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