DoubleWhoosh

On the domain, I help them with the website, some of the distribution, some technical consulting, as I'm already set up to handle it. Trust me, if you didn't have a marketing department, technical support department, outside sales reps, a whole warehouse, shipping crew, receiving, shipping accounts, shipping supplies, etc. etc. etc. you'd have no way to even get something like that off the ground! I already do some other similar subcontracted work for some other companies that are not automotive related (and even some that ARE automotive related including some of the Automotive Manufacturers), so no big deal for us here, just another client that we take orders from.

The guy in charge (Fortune) doesn't have every resource at his disposal out there on the Right Coast, plus he's helped me with lots of other projects and such in the past, hence I don't mind helping them out with this or that. Plus the resources and technical base of info I have on the Lexus line is pretty extensive, which makes things easy for whomever needs it. That information costs though

Need any info on the *$(#&% coming out next year from the Japanese automaker &%&*(@? Oops! Sorry can't disclose that info yet

rominl

iTrader: (4)

question todd. so does that mean we should just check on the bolt from time to time to see if it's loose? during oil change?

DoubleWhoosh

If that bolt comes loose you will know, as you will hear knocking on bumps.

The front main sway bar bracket bolts can come loose just the same, as can the main rear sway bar bracket bolts. These end link bolts are not the only thing, and once again it is not brand specific on the bars.

Every time you stop to get gas you should climb under there to check it with a torque wrench... jk

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

Yes, apparently the bolts holding some 'boxes' in the front to which the sways attach came loose a while back and I got a rattle over every bump - sounded like the car was falling apart! Apparently easy to fix though which was good.

Todd, thanks for the clarification on your relationship with Daizen. They need to do a bit more work on their web site though!

Threxx

Doublewoosh (or anyone else),
Can you please confirm that I should set all four of the bolts to 15 ft-lb along with some loctite? Or should the front be tighter than the rear?

Oh, and now I'm getting a sort of 'rubbing' noise from my front suspension over speed bumps. Is this just a result of the front coming loose too and all I need to do is just get it set to specs and it'll be OK?

Thanks! I need to know ASAP because once I glue those thing on I don't want to have to go back.

DoubleWhoosh

Yes, the 01 V8 cars have a horrific problem from the factory where the front sway bar mount housing things come loose, sometimes in as little as 100 miles! I guess it was a production problem, but as you said and was previously mentioned, an easy fix. On those we usually use the red loctite, as there is no reason for those ever to be removed again unless the car is wrecked or something, even a sway bar swap later would not require those to be removed.

If there is noise in the front, you'd have to really define the noise, plus all of the conditions that go with it.

Any clicking or rattling would be some sort of hardware, most likely the end links (or as mentioned above the brackets). Any creaking or squeaking points more towards improper lubrication of the bushings. Beyond that, it is most likely another component in the suspension or on the car somewhere.



Once again, the torque specs are:

Front upper sway bar bracket to frame bolts are 36 lb-ft

Front sway bar bracket bolts 21 lb-ft

Front sway bar end links 41 lb-ft



Rear sway bar brackets 13 lb-ft

Rear end links 48 lb-ft

Any loctite brand is ok for the bracket bolts, I'd recommend only the low strength blue on the end links.


Oh yeah the DST website needs some redoing, but that is definitely not my department I only helped to get it hosted, but my computer involvement pretty much ends there.

rominl

iTrader: (4)

man, that's a lot of info here, thanks todd

gotta bookmark this thread!

Threxx

OK well thanks for the information. Although I must say, again, I'm very disappointed that this information was not included ANYWHERE with my sway bars. Not even how much they should be tightened, much less that I should use loctite.

I've now made aroudn 5 seperate trips to the mechanic's shop and spent over 200 dollars MORE than the original installation cost, plus damaged two sway bar end links to the point they needed to be replaced, because of this.

DoubleWhoosh

The torque specs are included, the loctite is not really a "sanctioned" solution on the end links, hence probably why it is not on there.

All of this is moot, as whoever installs them should ALREADY know all these things. This is why things should be installed by qualified, experienced technicians. If they already don't know these things, then they are not as good as they are claiming to be.

Threxx

I didn't get torque specs or anything... I had to find them here at clublexus.com from another member. Maybe they just accidently weren't included in my box that I ordered from Sewell Lexus (lexus-parts.com)?

I had them professionally installed by one of the premier import shops in the Memphis area. Not the biggest name in aftermarket modifications in our city, but they did have one tech who was their specialist in that arena, and beside, I figured sway bars wouldn't really be any different than stock. After bringing it in to the local import shop with frustrating results, I brought it in to Lexus of Memphis and their master suspension technician took care of things from there. Neither one of them ever mentioned or considered loctite. They said that they should just stay put on their own.

Now it's back at the lexus dealership as of yesterday morning and it's still there today. I think they've had to replace 2 of the sway bar end links and might be investigating one other odd issue as a result of this. I gave them exactly your instructions in this thread word for word including the stuff about the loctite, and I even went to autozone and bought all three kinds of loctite (blue- medium (you called it low strength but I didn't see that anywhere), red- high strength, and green for external sealing) and told them if they were out of any type of loctite that they could just use mine.

I'll report back on how well it holds up over time.

Thanks again for your help. I really do suggest you make sure all the boxes come with instructions, and/or maybe even post them on the Daizen website, and if loctite is as crucial as it seems to be for me then you really should at least give some form of a "hint" or "tip" or "suggestion" about using loctite, although I understand that for liability purposes you would want to say that this is not something the user should do unless their bolts come loose.

DoubleWhoosh

I know for a fact that it came with instructions, as they are always bagged with the bushings and the other hardware.

Regardless, we can always help you with any technical issues no matter where you bought them from, so don't hesitate to ask! We have been on CL for a long time (since before the current owner even!) and have always been willing to help out with any technical issues or troubleshooting, whether we sold the products to someone or not. I have not seen any other advertiser on this site does that on a regular basis.

We probably have the most hardcore hands-on Lexus experience anywhere, most dealerships/Lexus repair shops and their mechanics are parts changers more than actual repair facilities. This is fine if you want to get a car fixed and back on the road in the shortest amount of time, but it doesn't allow you to truly understand the engineering behind the parts, and what the parts' good and bad points are. This also doesn't take into account that they are using this "shotgun" repair approach with YOUR pocketbook! This is why you hear so many stories of $4000 and even higher repairs at dealerships for something that didn't seem so catastrophic when the car arrived in the first place.

Toyota/Lexus is truly one of the most advanced automotive engineering companies out there, and we are definitely in a position to say this, as we have worked with many of the OEMs out there at the prototype and R&D level, both import and domestic. Still, when parts fail it is nice to be able to actually analyze what has happened, and proactively know how to do something about it whenever possible.

Anyways, my point is that if you need help, as long as you don't take up the whole day asking questions, we have no problem helping you out with any problems.

TM Engineering

rominl

iTrader: (4)

i have to vouch for tm engineering here. most people here know that i am the kind of guy that's willing to spend money as long as they are quality work done well and so on. i don't care if i am sponsored one way or the other. every single part of my car has been done and tuned by tm engineering, and i never regret having them to touch my car. heck, a lot of times already i basically just drop my car off at their shop and pick it up the next day they are that good about cars

anyway, Threxx, don't get it wrong i am not trying to say that you blame the wrong person, i am just trying to reinforce what tm engineering said. as long as they have the time and chance, they would more than happy to help

RON430

THREXX - The reason Loctite isn't "sanctioned" for use on the end link will become apparent if you ever try to take the nut off that's on the stud on the spherical joint end. The stud is not captive and the Loctite will prevent the nut from being removed. Fortunately, Lexus uses a spined stud so it is only slightly more difficult to get off.

Threxx

A "splined" stud? So that means I can just force it off with a cheater bar if I needed to? Or am I gonna have to break out the bolt cutters?

Ok well it's all finished. Everything is loctited on and so far.. .silent. Then again it has been silent before. So we'll see if it stays that way this time. I will report back if they start popping again.

Thanks, guys.

RON430

It wasn't exactly clear. The stud can receive an allen key, I think that the stud on the sway bar link accepts a 5mm key but that could be wrong. You just break it loose with a socket and then put the allen key in to keep the stud from turning and use a wrench to get the nut off. Also helps when tightening to get the nut tight. Loctite will keep the nut from backing off even after the nut has backed off far enough that the stud starts rotating. The use of a link that accepts the allen key is a quality move by Lexus that most wrench twiddlers will never appreciate. It is also the reason why Lexus does not recommend the use of a thread locker. Tightening a nut is one thing. Replacing a link is another.

Sorry for the confusion. I've changed bars a lot and have it down to a very quick process, even taking all those screws out on the under engine cover.