SS brake line install question
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Is there any special bleeding procedure required when replacing OEM brake lines with SS? I will be installing slotted/drilled rotors and haven't determined what the best sequence is. should I install lines first or one at a time while replacing rotors? Is there a way to minimize air in system or will proximity to caliper make bleeding relatively easy? Any good links?
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Originally Posted by TPA_STEVE
Is there any special bleeding procedure required when replacing OEM brake lines with SS? I will be installing slotted/drilled rotors and haven't determined what the best sequence is. should I install lines first or one at a time while replacing rotors? Is there a way to minimize air in system or will proximity to caliper make bleeding relatively easy? Any good links?
as far as changing in seq , it does not matter ,, change lines at the same time you do rotor but make sure to soak the 10mm brake line nut in liquid wrench for the heads will round off very easy .. make sure you use the new crush washer and trq to about 20lbs
bleeding do it with engine running to activate the abs sys and start from pass side rear then driver rear pax front etc etc but make sure res does not go empty for you will suck air in and it wont be fun
good luck and again be careful not to round off that 10mm nut
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[QUOTE=lexforlife]as far as changing in seq , it does not matter ,, change lines at the same time you do rotor but make sure to soak the 10mm brake line nut in liquid wrench for the heads will round off very easy .. make sure you use the new crush washer and trq to about 20lbs
Ed, I believe the correct torque for this is 24 ftlbs, anything less and the nut will work itself loose.
Ed, I believe the correct torque for this is 24 ftlbs, anything less and the nut will work itself loose.
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[QUOTE=Indio]
thnaks eric for the correction but i did say about
Originally Posted by lexforlife
as far as changing in seq , it does not matter ,, change lines at the same time you do rotor but make sure to soak the 10mm brake line nut in liquid wrench for the heads will round off very easy .. make sure you use the new crush washer and trq to about 20lbs
Ed, I believe the correct torque for this is 24 ftlbs, anything less and the nut will work itself loose.
Ed, I believe the correct torque for this is 24 ftlbs, anything less and the nut will work itself loose.
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Originally Posted by TPA_STEVE
Thanks for the excellent feedback. I'll be sure to follow this advice
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Thanks for the "heads-up" on profile. It is really a 400. As for bleeding, it seems that only dealerships would have a computer analyzer to override the on-board computer. How come no one else has mentioned this?? I have bled brakes on other vehicles without this complication. Does that mean you cannot bleed at all or just not properly??
If not at all, this means I must have lines installed by dealership. Otherwise I would consider installing, bleeding as best I can and having dealership bleed to ensure safety. Any comments??
If not at all, this means I must have lines installed by dealership. Otherwise I would consider installing, bleeding as best I can and having dealership bleed to ensure safety. Any comments??
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Originally Posted by TPA_STEVE
Thanks for the "heads-up" on profile. It is really a 400. As for bleeding, it seems that only dealerships would have a computer analyzer to override the on-board computer. How come no one else has mentioned this?? I have bled brakes on other vehicles without this complication. Does that mean you cannot bleed at all or just not properly??
If not at all, this means I must have lines installed by dealership. Otherwise I would consider installing, bleeding as best I can and having dealership bleed to ensure safety. Any comments??
If not at all, this means I must have lines installed by dealership. Otherwise I would consider installing, bleeding as best I can and having dealership bleed to ensure safety. Any comments??
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