joshoowa

iTrader: (1)

do u guys think that the brake adjuster on the inside is on really tight?

RMMGS4

iTrader: (5)

NOPE - And don't take any advice from your dad's friend ever again.

Did you spray WD at the base of each of the bolt holes as well?

The bolts you need are Grade 8. Grade A is for eggs.

Which way are you hammering?

You should be tapping against the back side of the rotor, aiming towards yourself, or away from the car, however you wanna look at it. Use only a rubber mallet otherwise place a block of wood against the rotor and a small 5 lb. sledge.

I think tapping all the way around is better than whacking it hard in the same spot.. You need to loosen the rust all the way around.

TLW

ok

start from the beginning



1.you loosened the lug nuts

2.jacked up a little bit

3. took of the rear wheel

then what have you done ??

TLW

and dont listen to your father friend

if all else fails you might have to use a little heat to loosen up the rust but let a pro do that

joshoowa

iTrader: (1)

haha yeah i didnt remove the hub bolt... i finally got them suckers off... it use the prethreaded holes and surely enough it "popped" you guys werent kiding when u say they would "pop" off.

BTW when i first started this thread i posted that the bolt was a 7mm with a 1.0 pitch.. actually its an 8mm with a 1.0 pitch

TLW

Congrats

rominl

iTrader: (4)

hahaha you thought we were kidding? some on, you need to know w are seriours always the power of screw can be pretty enormous if you do it the right way. the force it assert on the back hat when you put a screw is pretty darn big

RMMGS4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, using the right thread size is important. I couldn't tell from your explanation if the thread stripped or if it snapped off. Now I know you had the wrong size thread so it would just slip.

The first time you do this it has a cracking sound that sounds like something broke, so yeah it really pops when it comes loose.

erics3000

There are a few small holes that you need to thread some little bolts into. This will push the rotor away from the hub. The holes may be covered by dust covers. You will see these little holes around the center of the rotor. Just thread it in slow and they will pop right off.

erics3000

Oh I read all the post and see you finally got them off. Sometimes you cant be afraid to use a little force but whne it looks like it is not going your way then do some research. Cool...Another note ..If you have arotor that is really worn on 1 side and no the other you might need a new caliper. When I got my car the brakes were neglected and the 20's and heavy driving tore up the rotors and I needed to replace 1 rear caliper...Cool ...When ever you are removing brakes front or rear you always want to loosen the cap to the brake resovior. Whne you push the pistions back in the caliper for new brakes, If you do not have tehap off you might pop a seal on a caliper..Thats all the little things I know off the top of my head...Seee yeah./..

jonathancl

When you put the rotors back on (which I'm sure you've already done...rendering this post a little less useful), put some grease on the back of the rotor (the mating surface, not the braking surface, obviously); this will help prevent seizing for next time. You may still need the bolts but much less effort.

TLW

or put antisieze

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Assuming you're still running stock rotors - Last time I was due for resurfacing, I decided to put a couple hundred bucks more into it, skip the resurfacing (rotors were warped - stock rotors are bad for this), and I bought new slotted Rotora rotors from Carson. Haven't regretted it since, car stops way smoother and rotors haven't warped. Just an idea I thought I'd run by you since you got the rotors off.

joshoowa

iTrader: (1)

never thought about taking the brake reservoir cap off but i will next time.... the rotors seemed to be evenly warned, what about the pads? i noticed that on both calipers one pad seemed to be a little more worned than the other pad, i would say like maybe 1mm more worned down.

yeah i was thinking about doing this too, but decided to just cut them once. next time around i'll be replacing the rotors with cross drilled replacements.

erics3000

1 mm your fine...You will notice 1 pad completely worn or close to it and the other like new.. I do Like to resurface the rotors almost everytim I put new pads on all cars.