Q:suspension..
#1
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Q:suspension..
im going to be doing my l-tuned suspension today and was wondering whats so hard about it. i seen recent threads about the the trunk clips. i have done suspension on other cars b4.. i have all the proper tools.. is there something i should know about the gs? i dont wanna mess anything up. TIA.
#2
Lexus Fanatic
what tools do you have ??
do you have access to a lift or a 3 ton jack
i just did my suspension the other day
its not too bad
if you need help or have any question s
let me know
do you have access to a lift or a 3 ton jack
i just did my suspension the other day
its not too bad
if you need help or have any question s
let me know
#4
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im taking my car to a friends shop.. they have lifts... all tools.. thats where i replace all my rotors and brake pads.. we got that done within an hour..
#5
Lexus Fanatic
well thats a great help to have a lift
its pretty easy to change out the shocks once you do the first one
like i said
Watch the ABS sensor
very expensive piece
if you have any questions ask away
its pretty easy to change out the shocks once you do the first one
like i said
Watch the ABS sensor
very expensive piece
if you have any questions ask away
#6
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Originally Posted by T.L.W.
well thats a great help to have a lift
its pretty easy to change out the shocks once you do the first one
like i said
Watch the ABS sensor
very expensive piece
if you have any questions ask away
its pretty easy to change out the shocks once you do the first one
like i said
Watch the ABS sensor
very expensive piece
if you have any questions ask away
#7
Lexus Fanatic
off the top of my head
1.take off tire
2.disconnect the bollts that hold the stabilizer
3.take off bolt that hold the ABS tot he shock
4.remove lower bolt
5.remove nut offf upper A-arm get a mini sledge and hit on the metal of the arm
when you do this the rotor will fall towards you DONT LET IT FALL TWOARDS YOU lol
6 loosen the top 3 bolts
7.pull it thru
i think this isa ll there is
if im wrong some chime in
johnny
good luck man
1.take off tire
2.disconnect the bollts that hold the stabilizer
3.take off bolt that hold the ABS tot he shock
4.remove lower bolt
5.remove nut offf upper A-arm get a mini sledge and hit on the metal of the arm
when you do this the rotor will fall towards you DONT LET IT FALL TWOARDS YOU lol
6 loosen the top 3 bolts
7.pull it thru
i think this isa ll there is
if im wrong some chime in
johnny
good luck man
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#9
Not too easy....
I just finished doing my l-tuned s/s myself, and it was a *****. I should take pictures of the wounds on my hands after 4 days of healing just so the real mechanics can get a laugh
I found it easier to remove the front strut by:
1. jack up the car good, then jack up the wheel to releave pressure off the sway bar - remove the two screws
2. let wheel drop and hang back down,remove lower strut bolt, and loosen upper strut bolts under the hood.
3. Remove lower strut bolt, and pull strut toward caliper to get it out of the way. Jack up wheel a bit to get a good angle to remove the bracket bolt for the lower end of the strut.
4. Once the sway bolt is removed, strut bolt, and then the strut bracket bolt, then the bracket can be moved, and you can finagle the strut out and under the brake line toward the front of the car.
Spring tensioning is a real mother, and you CAN do it wrong. ONe tensioner coming from each direction on each side of the spring, so that you have to keep rotating the whole thing around to keep tightening/compressing the spring.
* Be careful - use the safety retainers for the spring tentioners - also, you CAN put the tensioners on the new springs, so that once the shock top is installed, you are unable to remove the tensioners! (the top is in the way to untension)
Also, take special note of exact position of screws on top, in relation to the lower mount position. You WILL have to retension the shock to twist it into proper position if you mess this up.. not that I would know or anthing
Using this method, you will not need a balljoint extractor/puller to get off the upper ball joint, (which really shouldn't be hit on)
I found that BOTH of my lower ball joints had play in them, and so I replaced them while I was under the car. This was a job in itself, and after I ruined a tie-rod end trying to disconnect it from the ball joint connection with the traditional - fork-type and hammer extractor, I headed back to autozone to get an extractor/puller type -
hope this helps -
good luck-
BTW - the back was easy. I don't know what people are complaining about back there. The only problem is to remove the interior of your trunk.
If anyone needs help with the ball joints, I can help. Learn from my mistakes
I found it easier to remove the front strut by:
1. jack up the car good, then jack up the wheel to releave pressure off the sway bar - remove the two screws
2. let wheel drop and hang back down,remove lower strut bolt, and loosen upper strut bolts under the hood.
3. Remove lower strut bolt, and pull strut toward caliper to get it out of the way. Jack up wheel a bit to get a good angle to remove the bracket bolt for the lower end of the strut.
4. Once the sway bolt is removed, strut bolt, and then the strut bracket bolt, then the bracket can be moved, and you can finagle the strut out and under the brake line toward the front of the car.
Spring tensioning is a real mother, and you CAN do it wrong. ONe tensioner coming from each direction on each side of the spring, so that you have to keep rotating the whole thing around to keep tightening/compressing the spring.
* Be careful - use the safety retainers for the spring tentioners - also, you CAN put the tensioners on the new springs, so that once the shock top is installed, you are unable to remove the tensioners! (the top is in the way to untension)
Also, take special note of exact position of screws on top, in relation to the lower mount position. You WILL have to retension the shock to twist it into proper position if you mess this up.. not that I would know or anthing
Using this method, you will not need a balljoint extractor/puller to get off the upper ball joint, (which really shouldn't be hit on)
I found that BOTH of my lower ball joints had play in them, and so I replaced them while I was under the car. This was a job in itself, and after I ruined a tie-rod end trying to disconnect it from the ball joint connection with the traditional - fork-type and hammer extractor, I headed back to autozone to get an extractor/puller type -
hope this helps -
good luck-
BTW - the back was easy. I don't know what people are complaining about back there. The only problem is to remove the interior of your trunk.
If anyone needs help with the ball joints, I can help. Learn from my mistakes
Last edited by GS1day; 01-21-05 at 10:08 AM.
#11
Racer
iTrader: (2)
swapping your stocks suspension out for L-tuned really isnt all that hard....but you will definately need to use a spring compressor to take the old suspension out....AND use it to put the new suspension in (trust me on this one....its best to do things right...even if it takes a little more time) since it wont be as easy as a coilover install...g'luck
#13
Lower Ball joints
To replace the lower ball joints,
Jack up the car-
Remove the two bolts holding on your calipers, and rope them up to your spring so they are out of the way, remove the rotor
Barely loosen the two bolts holding the ball joint on from the bottom, then using a ball joint extractor/puller type (looks like a claw with a screw in the middle) pop your ball joint on your tie rod, and then the real ball joint on the bottom of the spindle (to do this one, jack up your wheel a little bit from the front by the hub, so that when the ball puller pops, it wants to seperate the joint and no pressure is on it.)
No you can fully remove the two bolts that hold on the ball joint from the bottom, and continue to jack up the wheel to seperate and change the part out.
then bolt on the new one, and lower it into the lower a-arm where it connects. tighten up the ball joints,
replace calipers - grease caliper sliders
have a beer-
Jack up the car-
Remove the two bolts holding on your calipers, and rope them up to your spring so they are out of the way, remove the rotor
Barely loosen the two bolts holding the ball joint on from the bottom, then using a ball joint extractor/puller type (looks like a claw with a screw in the middle) pop your ball joint on your tie rod, and then the real ball joint on the bottom of the spindle (to do this one, jack up your wheel a little bit from the front by the hub, so that when the ball puller pops, it wants to seperate the joint and no pressure is on it.)
No you can fully remove the two bolts that hold on the ball joint from the bottom, and continue to jack up the wheel to seperate and change the part out.
then bolt on the new one, and lower it into the lower a-arm where it connects. tighten up the ball joints,
replace calipers - grease caliper sliders
have a beer-
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