Suspension and Brakes Springs, shocks, coilovers, sways, braces, brakes, etc.

just replaced front lower ball joints

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Old 07-12-05, 09:00 PM
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ILOVEGIRLS
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how much are oem tie rods?
Old 07-13-05, 03:41 AM
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tmf2004
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Can you just buy the bushing and replace that or do you need the whole outer tie rod?


I found them for like 35.00 and change on a earlier post from a parts website
Old 07-13-05, 05:22 AM
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NesTea420
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hey,

I was just reading this thread and it cought my attention. I have ltuned s/s with 18's. Do you think it is necessary for me to replace my ball joints, tie rods and arm bushings? Someone also suggested that I should get a camber kit. Is that necessary as well? I am just learning about cars and mods so I don't know much. I don't want to spend my time and money if I don't have to.

I noticed that my steering wheel is still tight but it shakes when I break on high speeds and it also shakes when I drive at high speeds with out breaking. It also makes a squeking noise when I break the car. I just had the front break pads replaced...it looks like I'll have to replace the rotors as well. Does anyone know where I can find the orginal part number for the front rotors?

I hope replaceing the rotors fixes my problem...but I want to know if I should go ahead and replace the ball joints, tie rods and arm bushing as well? I am looking for the OEM part numbers for these as well.

Thanks.

Last edited by NesTea420; 07-13-05 at 05:28 AM.
Old 07-13-05, 05:45 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by NesTea420
hey,

I was just reading this thread and it cought my attention. I have ltuned s/s with 18's. Do you think it is necessary for me to replace my ball joints, tie rods and arm bushings? Someone also suggested that I should get a camber kit. Is that necessary as well? I am just learning about cars and mods so I don't know much. I don't want to spend my time and money if I don't have to.

I noticed that my steering wheel is still tight but it shakes when I break on high speeds and it also shakes when I drive at high speeds with out breaking. It also makes a squeking noise when I break the car. I just had the front break pads replaced...it looks like I'll have to replace the rotors as well. Does anyone know where I can find the orginal part number for the front rotors?

I hope replaceing the rotors fixes my problem...but I want to know if I should go ahead and replace the ball joints, tie rods and arm bushing as well? I am looking for the OEM part numbers for these as well.

Thanks.
you are up in the northeast so the failing of your lower control arm bushings will be more rapid then us here in the south due to hot and cold cycling of the rubber within the bushings(winter to summer etc etc) if you have more then 60k on the car , with a lowered susp and bigger then 18 in wheels then to bring back that tight feelin , change the ball joints (the new joints have been upgraded by totota) chanhe the outer tie rod ends and depending on your budjet the lower control arms that contain the main bushings as well , the shaking while braking at high speeds if it does not occur at lower speeds then their is a high chance that your rotor is not the culprit but it is the lower control arm bushing ocilating under load
Old 07-13-05, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by lexforlife
you are up in the northeast so the failing of your lower control arm bushings will be more rapid then us here in the south due to hot and cold cycling of the rubber within the bushings(winter to summer etc etc) if you have more then 60k on the car , with a lowered susp and bigger then 18 in wheels then to bring back that tight feelin , change the ball joints (the new joints have been upgraded by totota) chanhe the outer tie rod ends and depending on your budjet the lower control arms that contain the main bushings as well , the shaking while braking at high speeds if it does not occur at lower speeds then their is a high chance that your rotor is not the culprit but it is the lower control arm bushing ocilating under load
The ball joints have been upgraded? My car has about 47k on it...the steering is still tight though. I am planning to change the rotors to see if I can change the steering shake. If I buy the ball joints, would a regular mechanic be able to replace it?

btw-18's with ltuned s/s, is a camber kit necessary for this? anyone with abnormal wear on their tires with this setup?
Old 07-13-05, 06:03 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by NesTea420
The ball joints have been upgraded? My car has about 47k on it...the steering is still tight though. I am planning to change the rotors to see if I can change the steering shake. If I buy the ball joints, would a regular mechanic be able to replace it?

btw-18's with ltuned s/s, is a camber kit necessary for this? anyone with abnormal wear on their tires with this setup?

yes the new balljoints they sell have been upgraded to resist premature wear

as far the steering wheel shake while braking let me ask you this , when you brake form say 40-50mph do you get the shake all the time vs when you brake from say 70-90


if the steering wheel does not do it consist each and every time you brake chances are your rotors are not warped for once they warp they dont correct themselevs then warp again they stay warped and in fact tend to get worse and worse

camber kit is non exisi for our cars however changing the lower controlarms with the new bushings will help with alignment and camber setting s to stay true
Old 07-13-05, 06:11 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by lexforlife
yes the new balljoints they sell have been upgraded to resist premature wear

as far the steering wheel shake while braking let me ask you this , when you brake form say 40-50mph do you get the shake all the time vs when you brake from say 70-90


if the steering wheel does not do it consist each and every time you brake chances are your rotors are not warped for once they warp they dont correct themselevs then warp again they stay warped and in fact tend to get worse and worse

camber kit is non exisi for our cars however changing the lower controlarms with the new bushings will help with alignment and camber setting s to stay true
It shakes at 40-50mph and it is worst at 70-90mph and it is starting to shake at hight speeds without breaking.

I would like to get the new ball joints-any idea on the cost and part number? Another question...sorry for my ignorance. So you are saying I will have to replace ball joints, tie rods and control arm with new bushings?

Tx.
Old 07-13-05, 08:42 AM
  #53  
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I am also looking to change all this as well. My steering is way loose at higher speed where I no longer trust my car steering abilities. Could someone provide us with a detailed parts list for this problem. Also should we go with oem lexus or aftermarket.
Thanks



Are the inner tie rods necessary?

Last edited by sputniknyc; 07-14-05 at 08:34 AM.
Old 07-21-05, 07:36 PM
  #54  
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I'm thinking of just inner and outer tie rods on both sides -- any thing else I should do while I'm down there, the bushings are attached at the end of the tire rods correct?
Old 07-23-05, 10:53 PM
  #55  
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how much labor is involved in changing the tie rods, control arms, ball joints?
Trying to get ballpark pricing before i get my estimate.
thanks
Old 07-26-05, 09:44 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by sputniknyc
low priced tie rods.
Anyone ever use these or should I stick to OEM Lexus?
http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/the...rt=Tie+Rod+End

also

http://www.olyonline.com/Lexus/lexus_catalog.htm

anyone have pricing on OEM lexus tie rods?

GROUPBUY!!!!!
I went on to that website thepartsbin.com.. Are those tie rods OEM? and will they be good for my GS 400? They say Japan so i fiqured they will be good? I need to know so I can order these? Thanks guys....

Tony
Old 07-27-05, 05:46 AM
  #57  
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I just changed my tie rods, ball joints, break pads, and break discs. The car is smooth as ever! I ordered all the parts from online and took it to a loca mechanic. He charged me $160 and took about 2 hrs. I was in the garage with him watching everything.

He said I might not need an aligenment. The car is running straight and I don't notice anythign abvious, but I think I should get one anyway.
Old 07-27-05, 06:45 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by NesTea420
I just changed my tie rods, ball joints, break pads, and break discs. The car is smooth as ever! I ordered all the parts from online and took it to a loca mechanic. He charged me $160 and took about 2 hrs. I was in the garage with him watching everything.

He said I might not need an aligenment. The car is running straight and I don't notice anythign abvious, but I think I should get one anyway.
Where did you order everything from? Let me know...Thanks
Old 07-27-05, 06:59 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by tmf2004
Where did you order everything from? Let me know...Thanks

the partsbin is OEM

also get from carson
cheapest
Old 07-27-05, 07:18 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by tmf2004
Where did you order everything from? Let me know...Thanks
I got tie rods, discs and break pads from http://www.******************.com/, they are all oem parts.

Ball joints from swell.

Lexus 2000 Japan Brake Disc Price: $72.96 Qty: 2 Part #: N1000-64972

Lexus 2000 Japan Tie Rod End Price: $36.62 Qty: 1 Part #: M3010-146591

Lexus 2000 Japan Tie Rod End Price: $35.45 Qty: 1 Part #: M3010-146588

Lexus 2000 Japan (OEM) Brake Pad Set ACT Ceramic w/ Shims Price: $57.39 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-88311


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