just replaced front lower ball joints
11-07-05, 07:02 PM
#76
Originally Posted by Lexizm
The ride quality before the replacements was a bit ridgid, and the steering was mushy and wondering a bit. The steering or ride wasn't poor but it was deteriorating as far as the luxurious ride feel is concerned. Now the ride is more solid, and sound. Steering is firm and smoooooooth. Like when you take a car for a test drive at the dealership.
11-08-05, 07:17 AM
#77
Original CL Sponsor since 1999
To any other members that are looking to do this, we just received a shipment of ball joints and tie rod ends. So if your interested just PM me or call anytime.
11-08-05, 09:32 AM
#78
Originally Posted by e-man
I think I'm experiencing the same symptoms. I'm going to the dealer tomorrow. Should I just tell them to check the bushings, ball joints and tie rods? I don't really even know what these parts are, but obviously they will.
Either way I would have them (ball joints and the outter tire rod ends) changed. You can't go wrong.
11-08-05, 10:14 AM
#79
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Originally Posted by Carson-Lex
To any other members that are looking to do this, we just received a shipment of ball joints and tie rod ends. So if your interested just PM me or call anytime.
11-15-05, 05:25 PM
#81
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Just ordered a set of tie rods and lower ball joints for my 98.
Now I'm really contemplating changing my suspension back to stock (currently on Tein HA's) and selling the coilovers since I'll need an alignment after the work is done anyways.
Now I'm really contemplating changing my suspension back to stock (currently on Tein HA's) and selling the coilovers since I'll need an alignment after the work is done anyways.
11-15-05, 06:27 PM
#82
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I just got my lower ball joints replaced today hoping to gain the benefits many of you guys mentioned. Before, I was getting no shake or vibration in the steering wheel. Just the loose feel and wandering of the car around the turns. Now I'm getting pretty bad vibrations and a shake in the steering wheel at 60 and on. It's as if I can feel every bump or crack on the road. The steering has gotten better though.
I did not get an alignment but my tires were rotated. Should I contact the shop that did it or drive it for another day or two to maybe break them in first?
I did not get an alignment but my tires were rotated. Should I contact the shop that did it or drive it for another day or two to maybe break them in first?
07-22-06, 09:06 PM
#86
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Originally Posted by NesTea420
I got tie rods, discs and break pads from http://www.******************.com/, they are all oem parts.
Ball joints from swell.
Lexus 2000 Japan Brake Disc Price: $72.96 Qty: 2 Part #: N1000-64972
Lexus 2000 Japan Tie Rod End Price: $36.62 Qty: 1 Part #: M3010-146591
Lexus 2000 Japan Tie Rod End Price: $35.45 Qty: 1 Part #: M3010-146588
Lexus 2000 Japan (OEM) Brake Pad Set ACT Ceramic w/ Shims Price: $57.39 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-88311
Ball joints from swell.
Lexus 2000 Japan Brake Disc Price: $72.96 Qty: 2 Part #: N1000-64972
Lexus 2000 Japan Tie Rod End Price: $36.62 Qty: 1 Part #: M3010-146591
Lexus 2000 Japan Tie Rod End Price: $35.45 Qty: 1 Part #: M3010-146588
Lexus 2000 Japan (OEM) Brake Pad Set ACT Ceramic w/ Shims Price: $57.39 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-88311
Did you notice that the OEM ones were cheaper than the "Japan" ones? Shouldn't it be the other way around? When yours came in, where they OEM Lexus?
Instead of marking the tie rod with a marker, could you use a ziptie to put the new tierod in the exact location?
07-22-06, 10:12 PM
#87
a zip-tie or two, on the 'other' side of the locknut would work as well like you mentioned. Naturally, I'm assuming they are going to be so tight as to not move at all on the rack and pinion shaft there.
I did mine today with no 'method' other than keeping the lock nut in place as original, and counting threads with a fingernail. Same count of threads before and after tie-rod change.
.
I did mine today with no 'method' other than keeping the lock nut in place as original, and counting threads with a fingernail. Same count of threads before and after tie-rod change.
.
07-26-06, 10:48 AM
#89
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Originally Posted by minla007
how much did u guys pay to get your ball joints and tie rods replaced? ..... ive read on here...anwywhere from $200 to $500+
Great option for $100
08-03-06, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by sputniknyc
Look into Daizens bushing replacement.
Great option for $100
Great option for $100
What does that have to do about his question?
how much did u guys pay to get your ball joints and tie rods replaced? ..... ive read on here...anwywhere from $200 to $500+
Jw.
I paid about $140 for my parts and did it myself with another buddy.
did mine today with no 'method' other than keeping the lock nut in place as original, and counting threads with a fingernail. Same count of threads before and after tie-rod change.
Heres some tips for replacing ball joints/tie rod ends.
1. I broke open all the nuts and everything after I removed the caliper. This makes it easier b/c everything's still attached.
2. On the tie rod ends, I broke open the locknut holding the tie rod in place and then finger tightened it back up. (So I know where the tie rod is supposed to sit).
3. Clean all the grit and grime off of the mounting locations before mounting new parts. Mine were DIRRTY.
4. Get a buddy to hold the steering wheel when you're loosening/tightening nuts that cause the steering to move. Its alot easier than trying to get him to hold the brake discs.
I may have more but haven't thought of any.