jeremyp111

Here's a good thread on the bushes that I saved to my favorites. It includes the Lexus part #s that work for 92-00 models.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=144793

VQT

jeremyp111,

Thank You Jeremy
I did the search and didn't get this post until you gave it. Thanks again

Nick T

Viet,
Get the supra front LCA so you get new ball joints, I am pretty sure the rear arms ( 3 ) total all use bushings and no ball joints so order from Vlamos. Order me a set while you are at it please.

Nick T

SCV8

The early SC had rear tire wear problems with the original settings; this is according to the dealer that aligned my car a few years ago, they put it at 1/8" of total rear toe, original was over twice that, that's why I was asking about the printout from the shop that aligned your car.

I have over 40K on my wide tires,over 150K on the car, toe is now set at very close to 0.
Don't just assume it's the bushings without doing some checking around first.

VQT

Thanks for the information, I'll check the printout. I don't think it just the rear toe like your car. I have problem with both front and rear, and the car does kinda wandering all over the place like Jeremy link.

RjRacing

this might sound stupid but have you rotated your tires within those 15k miles, they are your drive wheels and do tend wear out quicker.

VQT

I work on my own car so to answer your question. Yes
My problem are exactly what the first guy in the link talk about
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=144793

Would I be stupid enough to kept replacing three sets of KDWS for the rear every 15K miles without rotaing the tires? This is not the first or the only rear drive car I have. I also have a Corvette and the tires lasted more than 50K miles. Which car do you think I drive harder and expect the rear tire to wear out more

vredniykot

mine wear out on the inner side of the tire, (it is lowered) i did alignment but it kept wearing uneven, i went and checked alignment again and it was off again, WTF?

i'm being told that i need a camber correction kit

London Bill

I just replaced ALL the suspension bushes on Yakuza (1994 JDM Soarer, my third one).

The front lower arm bushes where on their way out so we checked out all the others and decided to change them all because the rubber had lost it's original properties, along with the front/rear swaybar bushes, gearbox, propshaft and rear axle cage mounts.

In the upper and lower arms Vlamos bushes where used, the rest are standard Toyota items except for the steering rack bush on the drivers side which is another Vlamos part. This was a great deal of work, not helped by the rear suspension bolts being siezed (most are). and needing to be chopped out.

The difference in the ride is STUNNING, there was little wrong with this car before but now it actually feels like a brand new car, in addition the steering is sharper and better weighted and the handling is greatly improved (new front shocks helped a little).

These claims you will hear for after market kit, the point is most people are replacing worn items with uprated parts and then go on to say just how much better it is BUT how much of this improvement is simply due to replacing the worn parts?

The Vlamos bushes are just superb (and saved having to buy expensive new arms), I cannot compare the ride to any other Soarer because none feel this good and I have driven plenty of them.

vredniykot

just ordered me a set of Daizen front LCA bushings along with camber correction kit for all 4 from TM Engeneering

cant wait for them to get here

VQT

Are you going to work on it yourself

vredniykot

you know it!

i hope camber kit comes with instructions

should i do a write-up on that? or has it been done already?

London Bill

What specs are you aiming for with the Camber Correction ?

The JDM Soarer has -0.75Deg to +0.75Deg allowance for front camber, so you have 3/4 of a degree leeway either side of perpendicular.

Personally I use the Max available amount of Neg Camber on the front, as the car is lowered I can only get -0.30 on the fronts but combined with some additional front Toe -0.14Deg (Decimal) the steering weight is perfect and combats the over-light steering that some complain about.

This is good for straightline stability, I tried it out and could do "hands-off" at 140mph.

vredniykot

well, here is my alignment sheets, first one is when i started to notice wear,
second is when after first alignment it kept wearing
third is corrected, i asked the last guy why it is out of specs he said -oh it just got knocked out somewhere on the bump or something

sheet 1
sheet 2
sheet 3

here is how the tire looks like:


i dont know if you can tell from the pics if the wheel sits at an angle, but in person you can really tell
how can it be within specs and still wear uneven?




can the tire shop align it to my desired specs?

SCV8

Wow, the old setup had the rear toe @ over a quarter of an inch; there's your tire wear problem.
The way it has been changed will double the life approximately from what was there before, you could go back and get them to set the rear like the front(about perfect IMO), that's about where mine is. Actually I made a large oak caliper to guage the differences, and my driver's rear toe is set straight on, and the passenger's side rear is .020 toed in, measured at the edge of the rim.
Camber will determine how a tire wears, no doubt, but it also depends on the driver, suspension setup, and even the tires inflation, so hard to say for sure, just keep an eye on things I guess.
You had the same rear toe setup that I'd had before my first dealer alignment. That was done when my car was stock, after I did the TT suspension, I just do it myself instead of letting someone else call the shots on how my car drives; I'm too picky, and cheap.