Cutting Springs
04-21-05, 06:59 PM
#1
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Cutting Springs
Just qurious, is their any right way to cut your springs or is it just a bad thing to do period. An if it is a bad thing also why is it bad.
04-21-05, 07:13 PM
#2
from my understanding, the compression rate of a given spring is completly negated when you cut them -- it no longer has the same compression characteristics when you eliminate coils.
Bad idea.
Bad idea.
And you bounce and jiggle like a fat chick *ahem* i mean jello 
04-22-05, 08:37 AM
#5
well... it's not really the best idea to do it.... however there is a proper way of doing it.
and for the most part.... unless you either 1- get lucky... or 2- designed the spring.... you won't get it right.
most springs are progressive rate which is what supracoup mentioned.... you get rid of a coil... you completely change its spring rate characteristics. You can change this for the better, but most likely you'll change it for the worst.
The "proper" way of doing it would be to get rid of the "Dead" coil(s) these coils are called "dead" because they have very little or no impact on overall spring rate.
and for the most part.... unless you either 1- get lucky... or 2- designed the spring.... you won't get it right.
most springs are progressive rate which is what supracoup mentioned.... you get rid of a coil... you completely change its spring rate characteristics. You can change this for the better, but most likely you'll change it for the worst.
The "proper" way of doing it would be to get rid of the "Dead" coil(s) these coils are called "dead" because they have very little or no impact on overall spring rate.
04-22-05, 12:45 PM
#6
The "dead" coils are there for a lead-in to the stiffer coils, so unless you grind the first coil touching the seat down progressively, you'll have a nasty ride.
To figure the relative stiffness increase, divide the # of coils removed into the original # of coils on the original spring.
Most performance springs are 15-30 percent stiffer than stock springs.
To figure the relative stiffness increase, divide the # of coils removed into the original # of coils on the original spring.
Most performance springs are 15-30 percent stiffer than stock springs.
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04-22-05, 10:46 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by MyScRuNmIa
Just qurious, is their any right way to cut your springs or is it just a bad thing to do period. An if it is a bad thing also why is it bad.
04-23-05, 01:54 PM
#9
Whenever I've done that, I've almost always had to use a specially machined shim with the spring to get the ride height back up to where it was even useable again after getting the stiffness I wanted out of the cutting of the spring. Also, I have used a formula to get an idea of what the rates are, both front and rear, so that the relative difference between the front and rear can be maintained after the hacking is over.
Really don't suggest doing it either since most of the time people won't use a shim system, and the spring will just allow the suspension to crash onto the bumpstops, or the car doesn't have good enough shocks (Konis, or Bilsteins) to properly control a true performance rate anyhow.
And don't trim the bumpstops either, they're there for a reason.
Really don't suggest doing it either since most of the time people won't use a shim system, and the spring will just allow the suspension to crash onto the bumpstops, or the car doesn't have good enough shocks (Konis, or Bilsteins) to properly control a true performance rate anyhow.
And don't trim the bumpstops either, they're there for a reason.
04-23-05, 08:06 PM
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Working in a tuning shop... I see cut and heated springs on a regular basis. I also see a lot of the bargain suspension crap. It always kills me when the kid starts complaining about how bad his ride handles and rides. Typically if they do it, most of them really regret it during the first few minutes of driving, despite how cool they think they look. BTW... cut springs are VERY obvious when you look at the way a car is riding.
A spring is designed to work as a unit, so ridding yourself of any of it totally negates the designer's goals of that spring. There is no unnecessary material in the spring's design and construction, or else the penny pinchers would've eliminated it.
If the budget is tight... watch the classifieds section here and Ebay... sooner or later something used comes up at a decent price. And find a friend that can help you swap them out and buy him a case of beer for helping you.
Just remember lowing the car changes the suspension geometry, and the stock shocks are not designed to deal with that new geometry. A set of shorter stroked performance shocks will also be necessary or else your stock shocks will wear much quicker.
A spring is designed to work as a unit, so ridding yourself of any of it totally negates the designer's goals of that spring. There is no unnecessary material in the spring's design and construction, or else the penny pinchers would've eliminated it.
If the budget is tight... watch the classifieds section here and Ebay... sooner or later something used comes up at a decent price. And find a friend that can help you swap them out and buy him a case of beer for helping you.
Just remember lowing the car changes the suspension geometry, and the stock shocks are not designed to deal with that new geometry. A set of shorter stroked performance shocks will also be necessary or else your stock shocks will wear much quicker.
04-24-05, 01:33 AM
#13
"Just remember lowing the car changes the suspension geometry, and the stock shocks are not designed to deal with that new geometry. A set of shorter stroked performance shocks will also be necessary or else your stock shocks will wear much quicker."
That cannot be any truer.... almost everyone never realizes this... and then wonder why their shocks would go out so fast.
That cannot be any truer.... almost everyone never realizes this... and then wonder why their shocks would go out so fast.
04-24-05, 03:21 PM
#14
The stock shocks won't handle the rates from the stiffer springs, much less the fact that you'll bottom out every time you drive the car.
Yeah, how about that suspension geometry...
Why bother lowering in the first place when it totally alters the roll centers of the car, which has much more to do with how a car drives and handles than the center of gravity; basically screwing up the way the suspension was ever designed?
Stiffer is one thing, but any more than an inch lower is whole other set of changes, and even at an inch lower the springs need to be much stiffer just to prevent bad geometry from happening.
Those stock-based race cars that are lowered in height use much much stiffer springs to keep things in order.
I guess it looks cool when you're parked in high school parking lots, I won't deny that.
Yeah, how about that suspension geometry...
Why bother lowering in the first place when it totally alters the roll centers of the car, which has much more to do with how a car drives and handles than the center of gravity; basically screwing up the way the suspension was ever designed?
Stiffer is one thing, but any more than an inch lower is whole other set of changes, and even at an inch lower the springs need to be much stiffer just to prevent bad geometry from happening.
Those stock-based race cars that are lowered in height use much much stiffer springs to keep things in order.
I guess it looks cool when you're parked in high school parking lots, I won't deny that.