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GS430 L-Tuned Suspension Install

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Old 08-22-05, 08:59 AM
  #46  
gottahaveit2
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Originally Posted by schwang
Just curious why did you even remove the ball joints? I installed the eibach pro kit last week on my 2002 GS430 and was able to remove the front struts without taking apart the ball joints. The struts will slide out right under the ABS line on the left; it takes a little maneuvering, but its just one more bolt you don’t have to take off. Let me know if there was a reason for this. And when you align the strut you don’t have to recompress the spring, with a little lubrication it will turn without it coming out of its seat.
I agree.

I just did my own install and did not have to remove the ball joints bolt. BUT I did have to remove that little black "U" bracket that the bottom of the shock bolt goes through, I just could not fish out the strut no matter how the wheel was turned or arm was positioned. So one cross bolt to sway bar bracket and one short bolt from "U" into control arm and the bracket was out and then strut came out. Saved having to pop that joint which is a good deal. Thanks for the tip! And thanks to
jonathancl for his thread, it really helped me out!
Old 08-22-05, 09:07 AM
  #47  
gottahaveit2
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I did my own install per Johnathoncl's notes, great job, reallyl helped me out!

Ok now I am good with tools but it was my first time using a spring compressor. Took my time, had safety glasses, plenty of iced tea.. it was about 100d F here in Texas last Fri afternoon..

First did the rear, and the pass side took me about 1 hr. Got it in and looked around the garage and said.. "!#@" Why do I still have four new L Tuned springs sitting there and 3 new shocks, and 1 old shock!!!!

Yes I reinstalled the old spring! Ok laugh, but I will say after that I had enough practice to be able to do one rear side in 30 minutes flat! Including spring release and compression of the NEW spring! PM me if you are in Dallas for a quote on an install for your car.

Car is in the alignment shop now, from my measurements, wow it dropped quite a bit, more in front than expected: Measurements were from fender lip to centerline of center cap: Front was 15.5, now 14; rear 15, now 14.
Old 08-23-05, 08:04 AM
  #48  
STONER
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did all of you DIY guys have air tools? I'm wondering if I shouldn't spend my install money on a decent compressor and do this myself.
Old 08-23-05, 08:11 AM
  #49  
gottahaveit2
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Originally Posted by STONER
did all of you DIY guys have air tools? I'm wondering if I shouldn't spend my install money on a decent compressor and do this myself.
I used hand tools for everything, except the spring compression I used my Ingersoll Rand impact gun. It was definitely a big help, that is a lot of effort putting the compression on and off 8 times at least per car.
Old 08-23-05, 12:09 PM
  #50  
NoS
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Originally Posted by STONER
did all of you DIY guys have air tools? I'm wondering if I shouldn't spend my install money on a decent compressor and do this myself.
I used hand tools, remember to have a bar you can use for that extra length. You can as most of us here did, including me rent the compressors at Auto Zone. They will charge you like $30 bucks and when you return them you get your full money back!
Old 08-23-05, 01:08 PM
  #51  
STONER
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Originally Posted by NoS
I used hand tools, remember to have a bar you can use for that extra length. You can as most of us here did, including me rent the compressors at Auto Zone. They will charge you like $30 bucks and when you return them you get your full money back!
You rented a spring compressor or an air compressor? I was talking about getting an air compressor to drive an impact gun.
Old 08-23-05, 05:07 PM
  #52  
jonathancl
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Originally Posted by STONER
did all of you DIY guys have air tools? I'm wondering if I shouldn't spend my install money on a decent compressor and do this myself.
All can be done with decent spring compressors and a 1/2" drive wrench with 12" extension.

Spring compressors; you can put the 1/2" drive right into the top of the compressors and crank away. Best cheap tool ever.
Old 08-25-05, 10:30 AM
  #53  
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As much as I would like to do this myself. I can't find the time, and the shop up the street said they'd do it for 300. It beats the $850 Pohanka Lexus was going to charge me.

Question: If it takes a couple weeks for these guys to settle, should I wait until then to do an alignment?
Old 08-25-05, 12:18 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by jonathancl



Detach upper suspension arm from steering knuckle
NOTE: Several people have said this is NOT necessary, that it is possible to slide the shock out with the steering knuckle still attached. Flossn did it by turning the wheel, avoiding stress on the brake line in the process.
Remove the nut. Now it gets fun.

I used a pitman arm puller to press out the stud. You just turn it slowly...slowly...slowly...and then BANG! the stud releases.
The rotor and brake assembly now moves freely, supported only by the lower ball joint. Secure the assembly with string to avoid pressure on the ball joint.
For safety you should leave the ball joint nut on, as once the joint releases it will kick violently down and towards you, and also risk damage to other lines and stuff. Just leave it on enough so that there is a space under it and you can get the spindle to release.

Also, when working on the right side, just turn the wheel all the way to the right and you won't have any stress on the brake line. Same deal for the left side. Just be sure to remove the abs line from the shock before you do any of this!
Old 08-26-05, 08:06 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by STONER
Question: If it takes a couple weeks for these guys to settle, should I wait until then to do an alignment?
For normal light day-to-day driving, yes. If you were driving 'cross country right away, I'd do it right away and then again in a few weeks.
Old 08-26-05, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by DoubleWhoosh
For safety you should leave the ball joint nut on, as once the joint releases it will kick violently down and towards you, and also risk damage to other lines and stuff. Just leave it on enough so that there is a space under it and you can get the spindle to release.

Also, when working on the right side, just turn the wheel all the way to the right and you won't have any stress on the brake line. Same deal for the left side. Just be sure to remove the abs line from the shock before you do any of this!
You should listen to this man, he KNOWS suspension!
Old 10-21-05, 05:39 PM
  #57  
BlazenHazn
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Jonathan.. Thank you! This thread was very helpful during my recent suspension install. I didn't quite use the same method on the front ones as you did, but it was still helpful nonetheless. However, a couple of my friends and i came accross and interesting piece on the front and rear left sides that we couldn't identify:




Does it say anything about this in the shop manual? We all had guesses about what it was but none of us were ultimately sure what it does.

Anyways, thanks again. For some reason my tires are squealing whenever i go over fresh payment and i think it has to do with removing my camber bolts on the front two. I can't wait to get it alligned so i can feel the difference!!!
Old 10-22-05, 01:17 AM
  #58  
DetMich1
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Originally Posted by BlazenHazn
Jonathan.. Thank you! This thread was very helpful during my recent suspension install. I didn't quite use the same method on the front ones as you did, but it was still helpful nonetheless. However, a couple of my friends and i came accross and interesting piece on the front and rear left sides that we couldn't identify:




Does it say anything about this in the shop manual? We all had guesses about what it was but none of us were ultimately sure what it does.

Anyways, thanks again. For some reason my tires are squealing whenever i go over fresh payment and i think it has to do with removing my camber bolts on the front two. I can't wait to get it alligned so i can feel the difference!!!
BlazenHazn, does the car you show in the picture happen to be equipped with HID headlights? Those appear to be the sensors for the self-leveling feature associated with the stock HID headlights. Located only on one side of the car provide data to the computers that control the self-leveling motors that adust the headlights.
Old 10-23-05, 03:02 AM
  #59  
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WOW! Yes, I do have HIDs and i would never have guessed the stock system were so elaborate. LEXUS!
Old 10-31-05, 11:04 AM
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Jonathan,
I used your write-up this weekend to install my L-tuned shocks and Daizen Springs. Wow, thank you so much. This, like all the write-ups I have used from Clublexus was so helpful. Along with the shocks and springs I installed TRD Sways, Brembo OEM Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Ceramic Break Pads, and my Carson Tuned Strut Bar.

We started at 11am and finished at about 5pm. Took about a 30 minute lunch, and I did about 90% of the work by myself. I did it at a friends house who luckily has a compressor and impact tools ( a must! ). The Shocks and springs were used so I didn't have to wait for them to settle too much. My car is slammed and handles insanely. I will post pics very soon.

Thanks again for all the help, couldn't have done it without you.

Joel


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