INSTALL: UGO Front & Rear STB
07-02-01, 03:07 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Here's a quick little show and tell on an install. The vicitims? The UGO (Ukyo Katayama) Front and Rear Strut Tower Bars (STB) and my 2001 GS430...
Although the UGO STB has more clearance than the TRD STB, the GS430's engine cover will STILL not fit underneath. Well, it will fit, but it's going to be pushed down by the STB and will rub and it'll probably look real ugly after a few miles...
As for the NA GS300, I have NO IDEA if it'll fit...but I know it'll fit a 2JZ-GTE JDM Aristo V300 Vertex model ..
The build quality is TOP NOTCH...and the Carbon Fiber looks excellent!
Now, before you start, make sure your car is on a flat, level surface. Make sure you're care doesn't have anything heavy in it (like a dead body).
Now here's what you're going to need:
1) 14mm deep socket
2) Long (12"-18") socket handle
3) Sharp knife (with a 3" blade or so)
4) 8mm Allen Key
5) Cresent/Adjustable wrench
Front STB - This is easy. Anyone should be able to do this. First, unbolt the 3 bolts on top of each strut tower. If your car is stock, you should have a plate on each side. Remove the plates and put them in storage as these are unnecessary. In my case, I already had a TRD STB on there which I simply removed.
BE CAREFUL when you torque down the strut bolts. Do NOT overtighten otherwise you'll break the bolt. Make it tight, but don't go all Incredible Hulk on it...
Next, take the UGO STB's and remove the 2 bolts (and 2 nuts) that hold the crossbar. Install the brackets first. After the brackets are installed, take the crossbar and fit it. The UGO logo should be right side up facing the front of the car (so you should be able to read the Ukyo Katayama on the crossbar). Each side has a lock-nut. Undo the locknuts and now you can turn the end pieces to adjust them in or out. On mine, I made sure that each side show roughly the same amount of threads.
Once you have those adjusted (Just hand tighten the lock-nuts for now), bolt it into the brackets...make sure the bolt (allen key side) is facing towards the front of the car...it'll make it easier to tighten. Once you get the bolt a little tight, it should just dig into the back of the bracket and you can tighten it using the 8mm allen key.
Now once you have that done, straighten out the crossbar (if necessary...the logo side should face straight up). Take the Cresent/Adjustable wrench and tighten each lock-nut.
Make sure everything is tight. There...you're done...see, that was a LOT easier than neurosurgery!
Ok, the following is a picture of what it should look like once it's done....
The next posts will deal with the Rear STB...
Although the UGO STB has more clearance than the TRD STB, the GS430's engine cover will STILL not fit underneath. Well, it will fit, but it's going to be pushed down by the STB and will rub and it'll probably look real ugly after a few miles...
As for the NA GS300, I have NO IDEA if it'll fit...but I know it'll fit a 2JZ-GTE JDM Aristo V300 Vertex model ..
The build quality is TOP NOTCH...and the Carbon Fiber looks excellent!
Now, before you start, make sure your car is on a flat, level surface. Make sure you're care doesn't have anything heavy in it (like a dead body).
Now here's what you're going to need:
1) 14mm deep socket
2) Long (12"-18") socket handle
3) Sharp knife (with a 3" blade or so)
4) 8mm Allen Key
5) Cresent/Adjustable wrench
Front STB - This is easy. Anyone should be able to do this. First, unbolt the 3 bolts on top of each strut tower. If your car is stock, you should have a plate on each side. Remove the plates and put them in storage as these are unnecessary. In my case, I already had a TRD STB on there which I simply removed.
BE CAREFUL when you torque down the strut bolts. Do NOT overtighten otherwise you'll break the bolt. Make it tight, but don't go all Incredible Hulk on it...
Next, take the UGO STB's and remove the 2 bolts (and 2 nuts) that hold the crossbar. Install the brackets first. After the brackets are installed, take the crossbar and fit it. The UGO logo should be right side up facing the front of the car (so you should be able to read the Ukyo Katayama on the crossbar). Each side has a lock-nut. Undo the locknuts and now you can turn the end pieces to adjust them in or out. On mine, I made sure that each side show roughly the same amount of threads.
Once you have those adjusted (Just hand tighten the lock-nuts for now), bolt it into the brackets...make sure the bolt (allen key side) is facing towards the front of the car...it'll make it easier to tighten. Once you get the bolt a little tight, it should just dig into the back of the bracket and you can tighten it using the 8mm allen key.
Now once you have that done, straighten out the crossbar (if necessary...the logo side should face straight up). Take the Cresent/Adjustable wrench and tighten each lock-nut.
Make sure everything is tight. There...you're done...see, that was a LOT easier than neurosurgery!
Ok, the following is a picture of what it should look like once it's done....
The next posts will deal with the Rear STB...
Last edited by Manaray; 08-07-01 at 05:13 PM.
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07-02-01, 03:30 AM
#2
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Thread Starter
Ok...now the fun begins...
For those of you who have never installed a rear STB, be warned, it takes some time. It's not TECHNICALLY difficult, but it just takes longer IF YOU WANT IT TO LOOK GOOD.
Ok, now your trunk should have already been empty when you install the front STB. You can take out your spare tire if you want to sit inside your trunk (and you're not some fat pig). It's a little easier but not necessary.
I recommend covering the back bumper and trunk "lip" with a towel as you'll be leaning in there a lot and you don't want to scratch anything...
OK! Now we start! The trunk liner, closest to the rear seat needs to come out. It's held in by like 4 to 6 (I can't remember) push-in retaining clips...and 2 bolts that also hold down 2 of the D-Ring tiedowns (at least in my trunk). Anyways, be careful when you take out the clips as you can rip your trunk lining (but you have to pull really hard). They should pop out with some force. You can also use some pliers to pull them out.
It's a BIG piece (it's 1 piece by the way) so it's kind of a pain in the *** to take it out...but once you do, you should have a nice, bare trunk half. Now find the rear strut tower mounts...nice pointed bolts eh? Don't fall on them...loosen the bolts and just the front STB, install the rear STB BRACKETS (take out the crossbar again). Once you have those bad boys in there, the REAL fun begins!
Now you have cut into your trunk lining. UGO supplies some measurements (in millimeters). The picture with the measurments is if you were looking directly DOWN at the trunk lining you just took out...
The also give you a height and width measure (rectangular) of the "hole" you'll need to cutout...personally, I wanted something a little better looking...here's what I did...
Once you find the "center" of where the brackets will pop through, take your knife a cut a horizontal line. Cut an EVEN amount in each direction (the "center" should also be the center of the horizontal cut you just made).
Now cut VERTICALLY at each end of the horizontal line. Again, cut up the SAME amount you cut down.
Bascially you're making an "H". Check out the picture below. Now, you should cutout about 1/8" (wide) worth of trunk lining on EACH of the verticals (again, refer to the drawing.)
Once you get that all done up, put your trunk lining back in. Make sure you cut through the white weaved "foam" also...Now once you get it back on, it should look something like the following photos (next few posts).
BE CAREFUL NOT to push your trunk lining back in by pushing on the "joint" The vertical portion of your trunk lining and the bottom "shelf" portion are STAPLED together. If you push too hard, you'll seperate the two parts and then you'll have to take the whole lining out to "restaple" them back together...
Anyways, once you get it in, and everything looks good, push in all the retainers and bolt back the D-Ring Tie Downs (which sits on TOP of the trunk liner). Then, just install the crossbar just like the front one...again, the logo should be facing straight up and you should be able to read the text from where you're standing.
Put the dead body back into the trunk and there you go, you're done. You may need to do some trimming and whatnot and you might want to take a medium to dark grey marker and just dab the edges to "hide" them...use your own judgement.
If you have any questions, Private Message me and I'll try to help you out. If you live close to me, I don't mind helping you install it so long as I have some free-time (it's amazing how busy you get when you're unemployed!)
Ok, now your trunk should have already been empty when you install the front STB. You can take out your spare tire if you want to sit inside your trunk (and you're not some fat pig). It's a little easier but not necessary.
I recommend covering the back bumper and trunk "lip" with a towel as you'll be leaning in there a lot and you don't want to scratch anything...
OK! Now we start! The trunk liner, closest to the rear seat needs to come out. It's held in by like 4 to 6 (I can't remember) push-in retaining clips...and 2 bolts that also hold down 2 of the D-Ring tiedowns (at least in my trunk). Anyways, be careful when you take out the clips as you can rip your trunk lining (but you have to pull really hard). They should pop out with some force. You can also use some pliers to pull them out.
It's a BIG piece (it's 1 piece by the way) so it's kind of a pain in the *** to take it out...but once you do, you should have a nice, bare trunk half. Now find the rear strut tower mounts...nice pointed bolts eh? Don't fall on them...loosen the bolts and just the front STB, install the rear STB BRACKETS (take out the crossbar again). Once you have those bad boys in there, the REAL fun begins!
Now you have cut into your trunk lining. UGO supplies some measurements (in millimeters). The picture with the measurments is if you were looking directly DOWN at the trunk lining you just took out...
The also give you a height and width measure (rectangular) of the "hole" you'll need to cutout...personally, I wanted something a little better looking...here's what I did...
Once you find the "center" of where the brackets will pop through, take your knife a cut a horizontal line. Cut an EVEN amount in each direction (the "center" should also be the center of the horizontal cut you just made).
Now cut VERTICALLY at each end of the horizontal line. Again, cut up the SAME amount you cut down.
Bascially you're making an "H". Check out the picture below. Now, you should cutout about 1/8" (wide) worth of trunk lining on EACH of the verticals (again, refer to the drawing.)
Once you get that all done up, put your trunk lining back in. Make sure you cut through the white weaved "foam" also...Now once you get it back on, it should look something like the following photos (next few posts).
BE CAREFUL NOT to push your trunk lining back in by pushing on the "joint" The vertical portion of your trunk lining and the bottom "shelf" portion are STAPLED together. If you push too hard, you'll seperate the two parts and then you'll have to take the whole lining out to "restaple" them back together...
Anyways, once you get it in, and everything looks good, push in all the retainers and bolt back the D-Ring Tie Downs (which sits on TOP of the trunk liner). Then, just install the crossbar just like the front one...again, the logo should be facing straight up and you should be able to read the text from where you're standing.
Put the dead body back into the trunk and there you go, you're done. You may need to do some trimming and whatnot and you might want to take a medium to dark grey marker and just dab the edges to "hide" them...use your own judgement.
If you have any questions, Private Message me and I'll try to help you out. If you live close to me, I don't mind helping you install it so long as I have some free-time (it's amazing how busy you get when you're unemployed!)
Last edited by Manaray; 07-02-01 at 01:46 PM.
07-02-01, 03:37 AM
#4
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Here's a close up of the brackets...notice the "H" shaped cutout. The "white" stuff is just the "stuffing" on the back of the trunk lining...just push it back in...
Last edited by Manaray; 07-02-01 at 03:41 AM.
07-02-01, 03:46 AM
#6
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Ok...here's the "beauty" shot...it's a close up of the center of the crossbar of the rear STB...though in the picture it looks like a "black and white checker", in reality, it's not. The "white" square are the same "dark grey, nearly black" color of the "black" squares...it's just a light reflection (look towards the left side of the STB, see how it's more "blended" looking in color, that's what the whole bar looks like)
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07-02-01, 01:35 PM
#8
Lexus Champion
Wow that has to be one of the best detailed posts I have seen on here.. Kudos Manaray on the job you did..
BTW what did the front and rear STB's cost you and where did you get them??
A shame that you couldn't keep the engine cover on so I guess the RMM carbon fiber one wouldn't work either.. Would really look sweet with the front STB..
BTW what did the front and rear STB's cost you and where did you get them??
A shame that you couldn't keep the engine cover on so I guess the RMM carbon fiber one wouldn't work either.. Would really look sweet with the front STB..
07-02-01, 02:04 PM
#9
Lexus Fanatic
Thread Starter
Sasha - Thanks! The car handles better now. Before, I had a small rear end "sway" over not-so-perfect roads, but now, it doesn't happen at all! The front STB is not "better" than the TRD one, I just replaced the front STB because I wanted the front and back to match.
If TRD made a rear STB, I would have had the exact same results I did with the UGO STBs...
2Savvy - Thanks! I tried to include details that I figured would be useful....I made mental notes as I was installing it. Luckily for me, I've installed a few of these in my other cars...as always, the hardest part is finding the trunk lining opening. The UGO STB in the GS was actually a little easier than some others because the brackets poke through the trunk lining...on some, the crossbar goes through the trunk lining so you have to do some gymnastics with the trunk lining to get it all the work...
The Front and Rear STB's cost like $250 or so each (I can't remember exactly)...I bought them from DA MAN...Steve Ganz down at Carson Toyota...give me a jingle and he'll get you an exact price...
As for the RMM CF Cover, unfortunately, that doesn't fit on the GS430's anyways...only on the GS400...and if you're installing this on a GS400, I think it might work with the RMM CF Cover...I think the TRD one might also (and if the TRD one clears, then the UGO stuff will DEFINITELY clear!)
At any rate, I HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend installing the UGO STB's along with the TRD Sways and the TRD front LCB (or ANY full bore brace kit like the TOM's setup). Handling will improve TREMENDOUSLY even on a stock height car with stock wheels!
I think I might even do the remainder of the TOM's kit (rear LCB and the tiebars)
If TRD made a rear STB, I would have had the exact same results I did with the UGO STBs...
2Savvy - Thanks! I tried to include details that I figured would be useful....I made mental notes as I was installing it.
Luckily for me, I've installed a few of these in my other cars...as always, the hardest part is finding the trunk lining opening. The UGO STB in the GS was actually a little easier than some others because the brackets poke through the trunk lining...on some, the crossbar goes through the trunk lining so you have to do some gymnastics with the trunk lining to get it all the work...The Front and Rear STB's cost like $250 or so each (I can't remember exactly)...I bought them from DA MAN...Steve Ganz down at Carson Toyota...give me a jingle and he'll get you an exact price...
As for the RMM CF Cover, unfortunately, that doesn't fit on the GS430's anyways...only on the GS400...and if you're installing this on a GS400, I think it might work with the RMM CF Cover...I think the TRD one might also (and if the TRD one clears, then the UGO stuff will DEFINITELY clear!)
At any rate, I HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend installing the UGO STB's along with the TRD Sways and the TRD front LCB (or ANY full bore brace kit like the TOM's setup). Handling will improve TREMENDOUSLY even on a stock height car with stock wheels!
I think I might even do the remainder of the TOM's kit (rear LCB and the tiebars)
Last edited by Manaray; 07-04-01 at 03:28 PM.
07-02-01, 03:50 PM
#10
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Great set up for the price, very nice looking bar sorry to hear about your engine cover, perhaps you can change some of the tubing to match match the rings around the bar..just my 2 cents. Also wondering if anyone knows if the bar would fit on the GS400 00 with an Rmm engine cover?
07-02-01, 04:12 PM
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Manaray,
Actually, it doesn't look too bad without the engine cover. I am a big fan of having the engine exposed kinda like artwork. The cover just hides all the interesting parts of the engine and since we are NOT keeping these cars stock, the better to show off all the parts!
Good job on the install! Very clean.
One question, do you have to necessarily match the front and rear STB's ? (eg, can I mix the TRD front with the UGO or CUSCO rear STB?) I may do the rear STB sometime down the line along with the Chassis Braces. First things first, is a set of sways...ARGH! Promised wife to wait until next year. SIGH...
Brent
Actually, it doesn't look too bad without the engine cover. I am a big fan of having the engine exposed kinda like artwork. The cover just hides all the interesting parts of the engine and since we are NOT keeping these cars stock, the better to show off all the parts!
Good job on the install! Very clean.
One question, do you have to necessarily match the front and rear STB's ? (eg, can I mix the TRD front with the UGO or CUSCO rear STB?) I may do the rear STB sometime down the line along with the Chassis Braces. First things first, is a set of sways...ARGH! Promised wife to wait until next year. SIGH...
Brent
07-03-01, 07:10 AM
#12
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Thread Starter
KNKGS400 - If you already have a TRD STB on there and it fits, then the UGO STB will definitely fit. If you don't have one, I'm not sure...
As for tubing...eh, I don't know if I care enough to change out the tubing...I plan on dumping in a Supercharger so I'm sure that'll handle any "your engine compartment looks plain" comments...
BLiu - Not having doesn't bother me really. I'd rather have the added handling performance of the STB over some useless engine cover. Since the TRD STB also doesn't allow the cover either, I've been used to seeing my engine w/o it...
As for matching, no, you don't have to match at all. I just did it because...well, I dunno...because I can I guess. I figured the STBs should match for show sakes...it's only $250 for the front STB....no big deal...
As for UGO vs. Cusco, it's up to you. Both are great...I just picked the UGO because it's light (carbon fiber) and looks good (carbon fiber )...not that a few ounces (maybe a pound?) is going to make a difference, but a carbon fiber STB is always trick...especially when it's a matching set.
As for tubing...eh, I don't know if I care enough to change out the tubing...I plan on dumping in a Supercharger so I'm sure that'll handle any "your engine compartment looks plain" comments...
BLiu - Not having doesn't bother me really. I'd rather have the added handling performance of the STB over some useless engine cover. Since the TRD STB also doesn't allow the cover either, I've been used to seeing my engine w/o it...
As for matching, no, you don't have to match at all. I just did it because...well, I dunno...because I can I guess. I figured the STBs should match for show sakes...it's only $250 for the front STB....no big deal...
As for UGO vs. Cusco, it's up to you. Both are great...I just picked the UGO because it's light (carbon fiber) and looks good (carbon fiber
)...not that a few ounces (maybe a pound?) is going to make a difference, but a carbon fiber STB is always trick...especially when it's a matching set.
07-03-01, 03:53 PM
#13
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manaray
Hell GOOD job hehehe .,.. welll Kinda like my story I posted when fitting the Cusco Rear Strut... anyways ,, I mixed Struts really I have a Cusco Rear Strut and the RMM from Strut bar ,,, they work great I think any Strut is better than no Strut I also only had teh front RMM without anything in the back it kinda felt a little weird at cornering,,,
Btw Did the Fuse box give you any problems when installing the front Strut bar ????? I know my RMM did ,, even their mount was soooooo close to the bolt had to use a wrench.
Hell GOOD job hehehe .,.. welll Kinda like my story I posted when fitting the Cusco Rear Strut... anyways ,, I mixed Struts really I have a Cusco Rear Strut and the RMM from Strut bar ,,, they work great I think any Strut is better than no Strut I also only had teh front RMM without anything in the back it kinda felt a little weird at cornering,,,
Btw Did the Fuse box give you any problems when installing the front Strut bar ????? I know my RMM did ,, even their mount was soooooo close to the bolt had to use a wrench.
07-03-01, 06:01 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
BBD - Actually, I had no probs with the fusebox...but I had a deep socket with a extension...the STB Bracket dropped right in, I put the nut back on and hand turned it until it got tight, then I used the socket wrench...wasn't any more difficult than any of the others....do you have a picture of that side of your STB? I'm curious to see why you had a prob on that side...
Do you have a close up picture of the mounts on the Cusco bar? Also, how about a pict of your install? The pics on RMM's site is too "far away" to see detail...
Do you have a close up picture of the mounts on the Cusco bar? Also, how about a pict of your install? The pics on RMM's site is too "far away" to see detail...
07-04-01, 12:31 AM
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manaray
Aye no problems man ,, I will post the pictures of all my Struts in Detail where and how it was done just gimmi time to finish my roll of film and get them scanned man
(putting a note on sticky paper,,, Pictures for manaray on BBD's front and rear Struts)
Aye no problems man ,, I will post the pictures of all my Struts in Detail where and how it was done just gimmi time to finish my roll of film and get them scanned man
(putting a note on sticky paper,,, Pictures for manaray on BBD's front and rear Struts)