Daizen GS front control arm bushings - review thread (final)
03-06-06, 07:16 PM
#271
Originally Posted by DoubleWhoosh
Well what I am saying to do right now is to take off your front tires and switch them. Don't dismount or anything, just put them on the other side. Backwards tread, unidirectional, it doesn't matter, just switch them and see how it behaves.
This will tell you if it's the tires. Then we can go from there. Tires can go bad at any time, even brand new ones.
This will tell you if it's the tires. Then we can go from there. Tires can go bad at any time, even brand new ones.
i am wondering if while installing the lower arms i i did something to the castor arm bushing
03-06-06, 07:22 PM
#272
Lexus Test Driver
Originally Posted by lexforlife
okay todd will do that when i get home tonight
i am wondering if while installing the lower arms i i did something to the castor arm bushing
i am wondering if while installing the lower arms i i did something to the castor arm bushing
I have been having a couple get damaged when pressing them in, I finally figured out the trick that they have to be pressed in from the bottom side of the arm, not the top. That way they don't go through the sharper edged side. That is, unless you chamfer both sides enough so that they are the same, but I never sit there that long - just long enough to make sure the corner is not sharp. This is just so that the bushing doesn't get cut into during installation or during use.
I wonder if we should put up a thread like a how-to on this job. Like a more official one that shows the watch-out!! stuff.
03-06-06, 07:38 PM
#273
Originally Posted by DoubleWhoosh
I doubt it, that bushing would be damaged visibly if you did anything.
I have been having a couple get damaged when pressing them in, I finally figured out the trick that they have to be pressed in from the bottom side of the arm, not the top. That way they don't go through the sharper edged side. That is, unless you chamfer both sides enough so that they are the same, but I never sit there that long - just long enough to make sure the corner is not sharp. This is just so that the bushing doesn't get cut into during installation or during use.
I wonder if we should put up a thread like a how-to on this job. Like a more official one that shows the watch-out!! stuff.
I have been having a couple get damaged when pressing them in, I finally figured out the trick that they have to be pressed in from the bottom side of the arm, not the top. That way they don't go through the sharper edged side. That is, unless you chamfer both sides enough so that they are the same, but I never sit there that long - just long enough to make sure the corner is not sharp. This is just so that the bushing doesn't get cut into during installation or during use.
I wonder if we should put up a thread like a how-to on this job. Like a more official one that shows the watch-out!! stuff.
i guess you are right for when i brought it back for alignment after doing the upper a arm and we saw toe was way out like -35 we also saw that the castor came back to within specs since doing the entire daizen setup so i guess if that bushing was damaged i would not get a good castor reading
todd check out my alignment since scroll down to my post and click on the pdf link
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=177828
03-07-06, 10:33 AM
#274
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Originally Posted by DoubleWhoosh
I doubt it, that bushing would be damaged visibly if you did anything.
I have been having a couple get damaged when pressing them in, I finally figured out the trick that they have to be pressed in from the bottom side of the arm, not the top. That way they don't go through the sharper edged side. That is, unless you chamfer both sides enough so that they are the same, but I never sit there that long - just long enough to make sure the corner is not sharp. This is just so that the bushing doesn't get cut into during installation or during use.
I wonder if we should put up a thread like a how-to on this job. Like a more official one that shows the watch-out!! stuff.
I have been having a couple get damaged when pressing them in, I finally figured out the trick that they have to be pressed in from the bottom side of the arm, not the top. That way they don't go through the sharper edged side. That is, unless you chamfer both sides enough so that they are the same, but I never sit there that long - just long enough to make sure the corner is not sharp. This is just so that the bushing doesn't get cut into during installation or during use.
I wonder if we should put up a thread like a how-to on this job. Like a more official one that shows the watch-out!! stuff.
I was actually wondering about something else. I want my bushings on the stiffer side, so do you think I can leave the original bushing sleeves in place to make the new bushings more compressed/stiffer? Would they go in at all? Long-term detriment?
Thanks!
-pavel.
08-30-06, 02:56 PM
#275
got my Daizen Bushing kit, ball joints and Tein CS v2 from Todd and very happy with the results so far, i left of the lower control arm bushings replacement, I have my stock origional ones on there, since those look like they will wear out faster and cause alignment problems in future as per my mech and few post i read on CL. The ride is very controled and tight compared to what i had before, i have 100k miles on it. I also changed out rack, rack shaft and tie rods.. Feels very tight, there is still a tinny bit of play when I go over very rough pavement, steering feels a bit like it disconects, I might need to tighten up pre-tentioner a bit more.. My mech did not think these bushings are any good at all, since they were so hard to come out and he put them in with his hands, i was there during the whole experience... this is a hard job, since he is a friend he only charged me $290 for this whole job, bushings, Tein CS and ball joints, after reading this whole thread I think I got the least expensive deal for this kind of set up. lol well it did not go smooth at all, he ended up breaking my speed sensor and we should get it from dealer by Fri, so it cost him $175, then he stripped the bolt and thread on the castor arm when he tried to bolt in the the 2 bolts to connect lower control arm to castor arm, he then had to go to autozone and get 2 bolts and nuts to tighten them up.. he was very frustraited with this job and said he would never do this again, I told him that many people here are happy and these bushings do make a big difference and they are totaly different design from stock, and that is why they go in easy after the old ones are out.. Thank you guys, for all the input as I told him about all the tricks that I learned on this thread as far as the bushings install goes.. Will see how this mod will be longterm..
08-30-06, 03:55 PM
#276
why did you get a rack and shaft? what was wrong with yours?
if your "mech" is btiching about his job, i wouldnt.....
ok well sorry to hear he broke so much of the stuff on your car.
i did my balljoints and tie rods and didnt break anything, but of course i didnt take off any of the upper CA stuff, but thats has nothing to do with it.
i think the most inexpensive way for upgrading and changing parts is DIY. but if you just dont have the time or watever, u just have to pay to play
if your "mech" is btiching about his job, i wouldnt.....
ok well sorry to hear he broke so much of the stuff on your car.
i did my balljoints and tie rods and didnt break anything, but of course i didnt take off any of the upper CA stuff, but thats has nothing to do with it.
i think the most inexpensive way for upgrading and changing parts is DIY. but if you just dont have the time or watever, u just have to pay to play
08-31-06, 01:26 PM
#278
yea Rom.. but the car rides so much better and more incontrol, not sloppy at all, Tein CS v2 are nice, thanks for the encouragement for me to get them.. I just left out the camber/lower control arm bushings off.. as I stated earlier, passanger lower control bushing was taken out first, we did not like the way it fit inside and possibly was going to have alignment problem and would wearout faster, so I ended up getting brand new lower control arm for passenger side and kept origional one on the drivers side.. The bushings inside of it looks good and not damaged, even with 100k miles on it. Does anyone know how long lower control arm bushings last, and are they common to go bad, I know caster arm bushings (big, fat, mushroomlike bushings) go bad and cause 80% of problems. I still get a little clunk coming from driver side of the car (where I have the origional bushing in lower control arm) when I drive of a a driveway on to the street, I am woundering if that could be it, and I need to get drivers side lower control arm changed too. Or it could be the sway bar bushing? I am also aware that our brakes make the clunking noise too, since I am on the break as I drive off the driveway.. Anyone has any ideas, prefferably Todd, since he is the expert in our cars.
Aristo, as for the rack. I had very bad play in my steering standing still or driving, or driving over rough pavement or bumps.. I mean an each of play. I first found thread about pre-tentioner adjustment, and got theat tightened up. It helped maybe 20%. Then I went to few shops they told me I have to change the rack. So we found remanufactures rack for $350, so I got that swapped along with tie rods.. And the play was still there, i can't blame my mech, because other mechs would tell me to swap it out too. Since usually is the rack problem. So, I decided to keep it, since the car has 100k and might go bad in next 10-20k miles, maybe. So it ended up being the rack shaft/joint that connect the rack and the steering column and has a boot on it that closes the ap between the inside of the car and the outside, the best I can explain it.. So now the steering is tight 98% I would say. If I stand still and jerk the steering wheel left to right I get a very little disconnect feel, it might be normal or not, we need Todd or someone with the knowledge database to answer this and the lower control arm question. But yes, for all those of you with the loose steering problems, look out for the rack joint if Diazen bushings kit and pre-tentioner adjustment would not help your problem.. Great thread by the way, guys..
Aristo, as for the rack. I had very bad play in my steering standing still or driving, or driving over rough pavement or bumps.. I mean an each of play. I first found thread about pre-tentioner adjustment, and got theat tightened up. It helped maybe 20%. Then I went to few shops they told me I have to change the rack. So we found remanufactures rack for $350, so I got that swapped along with tie rods.. And the play was still there, i can't blame my mech, because other mechs would tell me to swap it out too. Since usually is the rack problem. So, I decided to keep it, since the car has 100k and might go bad in next 10-20k miles, maybe. So it ended up being the rack shaft/joint that connect the rack and the steering column and has a boot on it that closes the ap between the inside of the car and the outside, the best I can explain it.. So now the steering is tight 98% I would say. If I stand still and jerk the steering wheel left to right I get a very little disconnect feel, it might be normal or not, we need Todd or someone with the knowledge database to answer this and the lower control arm question. But yes, for all those of you with the loose steering problems, look out for the rack joint if Diazen bushings kit and pre-tentioner adjustment would not help your problem.. Great thread by the way, guys..
09-02-06, 10:18 PM
#279
Pole Position
not sure about the mileage, but i had mine ball joints done at around 78-79k (I think....) I had my coilovers and bushings installed, and todd said that they should be done. I guess it could differ between the V8 and 6 cyl (assuming that the V8 is heavier) but I'd say from my experience that 80k is a good time to change out the ball joints.
I know you're in florida, but that bushing job shouldn't be done by anyone else than todd. I was there for the last couple of hours of the job, i consider myself moderately mechanically inclined, but i'd say even for the professional mechanic, it is a very very demotivating watching him do it. I'm suprised that he even figured it all out.
but all in all - thumbs up to your installation. enjoy the ride.
I know you're in florida, but that bushing job shouldn't be done by anyone else than todd. I was there for the last couple of hours of the job, i consider myself moderately mechanically inclined, but i'd say even for the professional mechanic, it is a very very demotivating watching him do it. I'm suprised that he even figured it all out.
but all in all - thumbs up to your installation. enjoy the ride.
09-03-06, 08:58 AM
#280
I took mine to a custom alignment and frame straightening shop, since I have no practical access to Todd. They seem to have done a great job, and they didn't complain about anything along the way, including hacking the original bushings out. I definitely recommend non-Cali guys doing this - there are usually these shops sprinkled around, they know a lot better than the average mechanic how to monkey with all the suspension stuff. When I mentioned having to press the bushings in with a press, the guy didn't even flinch.
09-05-06, 06:49 PM
#281
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hey guys i'm having all these problems with mine and i just had the dealership replace" both lwr arm assemblies,both support bars on lca and joint assy,lower ball" i got the car back and the steering was tight but it felt like it went away then i drove it a few days later on the highway and sure enough 60mph and higher if i hit a bump and the steering wheel shakes violently just like before i had the suspension work done so if i could get some help on these daizen bushings i'd appreciate it
10-09-06, 09:41 PM
#282
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I just got done doing the bushings and replacing springs on my '00 GS400. I could not be happier. The alignment is done and my vibrations between 55-60 are completely gone. I could not be happier with the outcome.
10-10-06, 02:25 AM
#284
Pole Position
I doubt it, that bushing would be damaged visibly if you did anything.
I have been having a couple get damaged when pressing them in, I finally figured out the trick that they have to be pressed in from the bottom side of the arm, not the top. That way they don't go through the sharper edged side. That is, unless you chamfer both sides enough so that they are the same, but I never sit there that long - just long enough to make sure the corner is not sharp. This is just so that the bushing doesn't get cut into during installation or during use.
I wonder if we should put up a thread like a how-to on this job. Like a more official one that shows the watch-out!! stuff.
I have been having a couple get damaged when pressing them in, I finally figured out the trick that they have to be pressed in from the bottom side of the arm, not the top. That way they don't go through the sharper edged side. That is, unless you chamfer both sides enough so that they are the same, but I never sit there that long - just long enough to make sure the corner is not sharp. This is just so that the bushing doesn't get cut into during installation or during use.
I wonder if we should put up a thread like a how-to on this job. Like a more official one that shows the watch-out!! stuff.
