ifilrx

Just got my sc300 a month or so ago and so far, i'm not satisfied with the current stock brakes. What's the best one I can get for less than 500 bucks? TIA

sc.Fred

to my knowledge the TT setup cost more then $500 in the first place..

i've seen people on CL that have done the LS400 and are more then happy with the brakes.. really personal preference

jacques

TT are alot stronger but overkill for most people who don't race and also heavier. I'd suggest getting a set of good pads and bleeding the fluid before you go out and buy a tt upgrade unless your expiriencing very bad brake fade.

Aristo300

I've ridden in my SC300 with LS4 brakes and also my friend's SC300 with Supra brakes. To be honest with you..... not much difference. My brakes seem to be alot smoother, but 60-0 braking is roughly the same.

BMwhat?

iTrader: (1)

this concerns me too. ive recently slapped on some 20's and my brakes went from bad to worse (as expected).... so now looking into a solution before i kill myself or hurt someone else. i know there are plenty of threads regarding TT and LS brake upgrades, but i was wondering if there are more basic things to do first. i think you touched on it, change brake fluid and pads. what kind of pads? how about steel brake lines? slotted rotors? would these help.... or am i better off getting an upgrade? thanks

ACleanSC4

iTrader: (7)

If you have 20's, you are better off getting a big brake kit. LS400 calipers can be had for cheap through Aliga here on the forums.

While your at it, get some SS lines to go on all 4 corners...

Aristo300

Might want to check to see if those wheels clear the brakes first....

BMwhat?

iTrader: (1)

good idea.... so, anyones in socal with an LS wanna try on my wheels for fitment???

and does it matter what year LS i get this from? are they all the same throughout... and a bolt on process?

Aristo300

95-2000. Bolt-on affair. You have to modify the dust shield.

BMwhat?

iTrader: (1)

thank you sir!

jacques

You'll likely get better gains from new high performance pads (Hawk, Axxis, etc..) and bleeding you system, getting any built up air out than buying an expensive brake upgrade. Big brake kits are unnecessary unless you do some serious racing. As long as you can still lock up your tires and don't drive like a maniac, stock brakes are more than enough. I reccomend trying this first and see if this fixes the problem.

Alot of times bigger brakes just increase the pedal sensitivity and do not actually give any gains other than aesthetic. The most important factor in braking in your tires, if your brakes exceed your tires friction limit getting anything bigger is pointless. Steel lines just change the brake pedal feel, no performance gains. Slotted/drilled rotors are weaker, dissipate heat worse, reduce friction/braking ability and eat up you pads alot quicker. Again most people only have these because they look cool, no performance gain.

Again I suggest getting some hawk hps, (ebc's wear out too fast) and fresh brake fluid since it's probaly never been changed. You'll definately feel a differance and save alot of money too.

BMwhat?

iTrader: (1)

geseeshhhh! which is it guys???

hmm. i guess it wouldn't really hurt my pocket if i tried with pads and fluid first.... i just might save me cash in the end. But i do have 1 question about slotted or drilled rotors. i know that they wear out the pads quicker... but i always thought they dissipate heat better. youre saying they dont. why are all race circuit cars equipt with them? i know they dont use it because it looks cool.

kietlander

just get the LS brakes, with new pads,SS lines, and new oil. and ur good to go supra TT brakes are only a lil bigger. not worth the money

jacques

Heat dissipation come is dependent on the surface area of a rotor, heat capacity comes from the amount of metal the rotor contains. Most cars have bigger rotors not because they need more friction area but because they offer better heat capacity and dissapation characteristics. Simply, larger rotors can absorb more heat while remaining at a lower temperature and also have more surface area for that heat to dissapate.
Drilling on the other hand reduces the the amount of metal in a rotor and surface area exposed to air, therefore lowering heat capacity and cooling ability and makes you more susceptible to brake fade. Some race cars use slotted rotors because it clears glazing on the pad that is possible under extreme temperatures and changing pads often is no big deal. You see slots normally in circut racing where you need to use brakes constantly at 100mph+ speeds. For street use or auto-x it would be overkill.

ACleanSC4

iTrader: (7)

If you haven't driven a SC with stock brakes and 20's, you should try it and see how weak the stock brakes are.

If you're going to buy pads/change fluids, yada yada...you might as well step up and get the LS brake upgrade (I only say that because it's cheaper)...I myself have Supra TT front & rear...

I've had drilled/slotted rotors for years now, I don't see any unusual brake pad life.

Point here is that if you have 20's, shoot...19's even, you'll feel the difference with bigger rims in braking. The LS400 brakes are so affordable, I don't see why people are cheaping out on their braking.