I talked to a lexus repair shop today and they seem to think the issue lies in the springs, not shocks. They said that bouncing (which I don't have) is a symtom of bad shocks and that the car slowly lowering is a symtom of bad springs.

What do you all think about that?

 

yes if you installed them without the bumpstops that could be an issue, I know mine were installed without the bump stops, If anyone knows can you tell me first what will happen without the stock boot and if it is 100% needed and second how will not using bumpstops affect the shocks. I know how it will affect the ride , because I am bottoming out with tokico blues and espelir springs regularily

 

Ithink you guys that are bottoming out use the stock bumpstops instead of the ones that come with the kit.

 

"Mercedes-ish" ???

Is that a good thing or a bad thing? I've never driven one.
Do you sell shocks? I am becoming interested in KYB to cushion my spine
but then maybe add stabilizers or sway bars to keep the tires on the ground.

 

Hard to describe, but anyone who's ridden/driven an E or S class would know exactly what I'm talking about. It's a very solid and firm, but VERY smooth ride.

They KYB are nice too, nothing to sniff at!

 

Bilstien Pss has a firm but smooth ride as described. Not harsh at all. Close to stock without the wiggle and jiggle.

 

I believe the L-tuned shocks are rebadged KYB shocks if my memory serves correct.

 

Are we comparing coilovers to shocks? As far as budgeting, is this a night and day comparison? When I take the '05 ES300 loaner car from Lexus of Austin it feels like I'm sitting in a bowl of Jello. I love that feeling but on the other hand I do want something that keeps my car level when cornering.

KYB and LTuned are the same thing? And I should expect both to last 3 years tops?

 

I still have my OEM 16" wheels with my L-tuned suspension. I do need to take it easy on large speed bumps. The down side of the bump I take as slow as possible. Or, just avoid them completely.

 

That is good to hear...I think it's just the tires. I guess I will have to buy two new tires so I can put my 18's back on.

 

If done correctly the tire size shouldn't matter. The "Plus" sizing of tires and wheels (if done correctly) should maintain or be very close to the stock overall diameter of the wheel and tire. Larger wheels, smaller sidewalls. On a car I had lowered, 2" front, 3" rear, all went as yours has, no problems for a couple years. Then the ArrowSpeed coilovers settled/weakened slightly and the struts were wearing out, thus creating bottoming out issues. New struts and crank the coilovers up a bit andf things were good to go again. My experience with a "dropped" car.

 

I don't think the wheel size is the problem, I think it is the compression of the tire. When going over a bump, I think my the tires on my 16's compress slighly more than the tires on my 18's...just enough to cause me to bottom out.

Maybe I am being optimistic...I really hope it is not my shocks mainly because I don't want to spend $600-$1000 buy and install a new set.

 

Easy enough to test, just air up your 16's. Put the full 32 p.s.i. in them or more if rated for it.

 

But wouldn't that compression be at the bottom and not the top?

 

?? What do you mean by at the bottom, not the top? I am guessing that when the front tire goes over the speed bump and all the weight of the engine pushes down on the front tires, they give slightly more than my other tires...just enought to bottom out.