STONER

I started the install with the front lines and then installed the rear, bled the rear and then bled the front lines. This is what the stock line looks like in the front.

The first step is to remove the 10mm bolt from the line at the wall of the wheel well.

Hold the bottom of the line with a 17mm wrench and loosen the top 10mm. Brake fluid will start to leak from the connection so you will want to have something to catch the fluid. If the bolt strips, you may need a locking plier to break the connection loose. The line is held by a U shaped washer that you will pull off with a plier. I reused mine to attach the new line to the tab as shown here.

The other end of the stock line is fixed to the caliper with a 14mm bolt. This one is torqued to 22ft-lb so shouldn't be too hard to break, and remember to torque the new line when you connect.

The installed line looks like this.

The rear is more of the same.
Remember to angle the new line connection at the caliper in the same direction as the stock one and make sure that the line is long enough to travel the length of turns in both directions.


After installing all the lines follow the procedure for bleeding the brakes. I used this link as a go by for the line installation and the bleeding procedure is good too.


http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/SSbrakelines.html
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/bleeding.html

Saved about $300 in labor, and took about 2.5-3 hours.

chuckb

thanks for the pics Andy. it looks like a pretty simple job, as long as you have a buddy to help bleed the lines when you're done.

so how does it feel?

STONER

I'm only about 100 miles in on the new rotors up front, so I haven't done any hard braking yet, but the response from the pedal seems better, more linear. I feel like the pressure on the pedal does more to stop the car than before. Tough to really describe the improvement. I think it's mostly in the "feel" but I don't know if that's just because of what I read.


P.S. If anyone can remember to take a listen the next time you brake to get the car out of park, let me know if you can hear anything. I took the console out and saw what's making the noise, I just can't remember if it's always been there. If I lightly hold the shift ****, I can feel the release too.

TexasGS

Great write up Stoner . Has anyone here used one of those pressure things to bleed their brakes? http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_bcbe.asp
Looks like a lot easier way to do it and you can do it yourself. Anyone?

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it has always been there, you've just become sensitive to it since you did the brake lines.
What you are hearing is a relay and/or solenoid actuating to release the shifter. It's the standard brake pedal interlock.
The cure is to turn up some good music right after you start your engine, then you won't hear the click or care.

jonathancl

Nice, Stoner. Really nice.

Are your calipers painted?

STONER

They're painted black.

Revhard191

iTrader: (4)

Hello Guys,

Just found this thread and thought I would post my point of view (2 Cents) since I have had my SS line installed for about 3 months, plus new cross drilled and slotted rotors with new Ceramic (AXXIS, I think if I remember correctly.) brake pads.

When I would stop before with the STD breaks, they seemed mushy at the pedal, now with they feel nice and even with more response at light and when applied hard, they seem to really come alive, and I notice that at the pedal, it feels confident and strong.

The only thing that I have noticed is that with slotted and drilled rotors, when applying the breaks, you can hear the the chopping sound of the slots and drills, but I think is is pretty cool. As far as I know it was a realitive easy install with me and my uncle (Mechanically inclinded, not me.) helping and showing me what to do and what not to do.

I hope this helps those who are contemplating on doing this mod. I only wish I could afford the BBK front and rear, I heard those will make change out of 10 cents....LOL... but I am planning on that mod as soon as i can afford them.



Revhard191

LEXISM

iTrader: (2)

Question: when doing this mod ...which I will be doing it this weekend ...do you need to bleed the brakes? if so what brake fluid should I use ?
Im going w/
88 rotors cross drilled slotted rotors
Axxis Deluxe Plus Brake pads
Goodrich SS lines

anything else I need ? brake fluid? what brand ?

thanks


Erick

STONER

The answer is yes, you will need to bleed the brakes.
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/bleeding.html
The link posted above is a good go by.
FYI... I had to go through three or four pumping cycles with the front brakes before any fluid came out. Make sure you bleed until the fluid comes all the way through the new lines.
I think any DOT 3 brake fluid will do. I used the ATE Super Blue which I believe is DOT 4 (higher boiling point). Bought mine from ebay. From what I've read, the DOT 3 should work fine in all but repeated extreme braking conditions.
Good luck. I'm very pleased with the results, much more confident braking.

jonathancl

Just did this upgrade, piece of cake. Bleeding was way easier than I expected. Changing brake pads as part of this upgrade is also a piece of cake since there's no resistance pushing the cylinders back.

Some thoughts on the upgrade:

The bolts included with the Goodrich brake line kit that attach the lines to the calipers are not nearly as sturdy as the stock ones.

If you use the included ones, don't try to torque them to 22 ftlbs; I broke one trying to do so.

I recommend using the stock bolts. They have smaller holes and more metal, able to take more torque, and I'm pretty sure they're also harder material.

StasGS4

iTrader: (1)

jonathancl,

What are your impressions from the upgrade?

jonathancl

I did the upgrade in concert with EBC RedStuff pads; I haven't stomped on them yet and won't for a few hundred miles (give the pads time to bed). It'll be difficult for me to evaluate the effect of the lines themselves.

edit:
I have a thought: the Goodrich bolts allow higher fluid flow to the caliper than the stock ones. Is it possible that the difference in pedal feel is partially due to the increased flow rather than the ss lines?

BobaDrift

I've used the pressure bleeder and actually plan on swapping my GS300 to Supra TT brakes this weekend (today/tomorrow). I'm also going to install SS lines as well.
Once done I'll of course use my pressure bleeder for the brakes. It was a good buy and makes bleeding the brakes alot easier/faster. Just make sure you read the instructions on how to use it and don't pressurize the brake system too much.

LEXSOOS

I did my OEM Rotora SS coated lines last weekend in connection with Speed Bleeders (one person operation) Took me less than 2 hour's to complete whole job

Items i've used:

1. OEM ROTORA SS COATED BRAKE LINES ($140.00) FREE SHIPPING FOR CL MEMBERS
2. VALVOLINE SYNTHETIC BRAKE FLUID ( 2 BOTTLES) FROM AUTOZONE $15.00
3. SPEED BLEEDER VALVES ($30.00 OR SO, SHIPPED)
4. LITTLE OVER 1.5 HOUR IN LABOR
5. VERY STANDARD TOOLS

MOST FEELABLE MOD I'VE DONE SO FAR, A MUST MOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Brakes are more precise, sharp like scalpel, 50% better feel on brake pedal-not as mushy as before, much more control vs OEM brakes................