Brake light problem on the IS?
#17
Originally Posted by Kipperm13
yea well i see the upside ... if i am going down the road by myself and speeding...like always... and my radar detector goes off i can tap my brake and slow down with out the cops seening me break....lol I love it
#18
it might be a production problem with specific cars. I'm pretty sure my brake lights are fine and everything.
I was driving behind another IS250 the other night and noticed that the LED brake lights are EXTREMELY bright!!!!
I was driving behind another IS250 the other night and noticed that the LED brake lights are EXTREMELY bright!!!!
#19
Originally Posted by inecstaz
it might be a production problem with specific cars. I'm pretty sure my brake lights are fine and everything.
#21
Originally Posted by SeattLexus
That's disappointing since LEDs are supposed to be faster lighting up than traditional bulbs.
#22
Originally Posted by DanIS350
It has nothing to do with the response times of LED v. bulbs. It must be some kind of problem with the mechanism that detects when the brake pedal is depressed.
#23
I've noticed it ever since I got the car back in Janruary. Thought that this was normal but I guess it isn't since not everyone's car is like this.
Could this be a possible Recall or Fix? I had the AWD and they fixed the Throttle Recall before they gave me the car.
-Mike
Could this be a possible Recall or Fix? I had the AWD and they fixed the Throttle Recall before they gave me the car.
-Mike
#24
I too feel the brake has to be depressed way too far before the brake lights come on. Any movement of the brake pedal should make the brake lights come on. Subjective measurement seems the pedal needs to be pressed almost halfway before the brake lights activate.
#25
I've been messing with the ABS/VSC/Trac wiring a lot lately. It appears that the ABS uses a load cell, strain gauge or pot to measure brake force on the pedal. I think it activates the brake light using this sensor because I couldn't get the light to come on using the interlock switch though there are addtional leads on it that I haven't decoded yet. The interlock is adjustable for height but the load cell looks impossible to change.
Try seeing if the Start enable (little green light) on the dash button comes on at the same time as the brake lights. If it does then the interlock controls the brakes and the problem is easily fixed. If not then the load cell controls it and it's definately dealer time.
Try seeing if the Start enable (little green light) on the dash button comes on at the same time as the brake lights. If it does then the interlock controls the brakes and the problem is easily fixed. If not then the load cell controls it and it's definately dealer time.
#26
Originally Posted by HaveBlue
I've been messing with the ABS/VSC/Trac wiring a lot lately. It appears that the ABS uses a load cell, strain gauge or pot to measure brake force on the pedal. I think it activates the brake light using this sensor because I couldn't get the light to come on using the interlock switch though there are addtional leads on it that I haven't decoded yet. The interlock is adjustable for height but the load cell looks impossible to change.
Try seeing if the Start enable (little green light) on the dash button comes on at the same time as the brake lights. If it does then the interlock controls the brakes and the problem is easily fixed. If not then the load cell controls it and it's definately dealer time.
Try seeing if the Start enable (little green light) on the dash button comes on at the same time as the brake lights. If it does then the interlock controls the brakes and the problem is easily fixed. If not then the load cell controls it and it's definately dealer time.
Thanks. I'll take a look when it gets dark later tonight.
#28
Originally Posted by HaveBlue
Try seeing if the Start enable (little green light) on the dash button comes on at the same time as the brake lights. If it does then the interlock controls the brakes and the problem is easily fixed. If not then the load cell controls it and it's definately dealer time.
#29
Originally Posted by conekiller
I tried it...the green start light comes on at the same time as the brake lights. So what's the easy fix?
Ok I tested it too... the green light comes on basically the same time as the brake lights. The green light comes on a tick slower than the brakes... I can not get the brake lights to come on and the green light not to come on or vice versa. They will both come on at the same time.... the green light like I said being a tick slower. But comes on.
But it requires like 1/3 brake pedal travel before the green light or the brake lights to come on. Thats not good. I can rest my feet on the pedal and feel slight braking and the brake lights do no come on. I think this is too slow to inform the drivers in the back that I'm stepping on the brakes. Its a safety concern to me... seriously... Drivers now a days are sooo dumb that the more warning they get the better.
So HaveBlue... whats the fix for this? what should the dealer adjust or can do to make it more sensitive? Every car Out there I drive and tested the brake lights come on with the slightest brake pedal movement... not 1/3rd brake pedal movement...
Thanks in Advance if you have a solution for me to tell my dealer.
#30
Ok, that should be a pretty easy fix. Sounds like the other two wires I didn't test are the brake light sensors.
If you want to do it yourself without leaving your car at the Dealer for a day, here is the procedure requiring a philips screwdriver and (I think) a wrench probably 12mm:
You will be adjusting the switch at the brake pedal.
Remove the lowest black valance beneath the steering column. It houses an led courtesy light. Unscrew the two screws and release the two tabs that hold it. There are two more clips that retain it. One near the door and one towards the firewall that you need to maneuver.
Now look up into the dash and you will see that the brake pedal has a blue stop bumper that contacts a silver switch. Remember how much thread is showing on the switch in case you need to put it back to that position.
Remove the white electrical connector by pressing the tab and pulling.
There should be a lock nut on the switch in addition to the nut welded to the bracket. Loosen the lock nut.
Rotate the switch clockwise (while looking from below) to move it further into the bracket .
Intermittantly, plug the connector back in and see if it's adjusted to your liking.
When you've got it right, tighten the lock nut, install the electrical connector and valance.
Hope that helps ya!
If you want to do it yourself without leaving your car at the Dealer for a day, here is the procedure requiring a philips screwdriver and (I think) a wrench probably 12mm:
You will be adjusting the switch at the brake pedal.
Remove the lowest black valance beneath the steering column. It houses an led courtesy light. Unscrew the two screws and release the two tabs that hold it. There are two more clips that retain it. One near the door and one towards the firewall that you need to maneuver.
Now look up into the dash and you will see that the brake pedal has a blue stop bumper that contacts a silver switch. Remember how much thread is showing on the switch in case you need to put it back to that position.
Remove the white electrical connector by pressing the tab and pulling.
There should be a lock nut on the switch in addition to the nut welded to the bracket. Loosen the lock nut.
Rotate the switch clockwise (while looking from below) to move it further into the bracket .
Intermittantly, plug the connector back in and see if it's adjusted to your liking.
When you've got it right, tighten the lock nut, install the electrical connector and valance.
Hope that helps ya!