Another Eibach Install w/ PIcs -- But having some Issues -- Please Help
05-12-06, 07:18 PM
#1
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 1,075
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another Eibach Install w/ PIcs -- But having some Issues -- Please Help
I just installed some Eibach Springs and I am impressed with the increase in firmness and amount of drop. I have +36 offset all around and rubbing is not an issue unless the steering wheel is turned completely (even then the rub is no worse than stock wheels and springs).
One issue that I do have and need URGENT help is that I hear some clicking/rattling noise from the rear. It sounds like something is loose but I saw the tech tighthen everything and double check again after I test drove the car. =We could not find out what the problem was therefore since there are lot of knowledgable people here please help me.
Does anybody know what that means on the Eibach installation instructions for the IS350 kit. It says everything bushing and joints need to be tightened with the full weight of the car on the suspension. What is a bushing? Which joints are they referring to? Do they mean lower the car and then tighten the top of the suspensio that sticks out to the trunk?
Lastly, does anybody know a great shop I may bring my car to fix this issue if my tech cannot figure it out?
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Here are some pictures but they are crappy.
One issue that I do have and need URGENT help is that I hear some clicking/rattling noise from the rear. It sounds like something is loose but I saw the tech tighthen everything and double check again after I test drove the car. =We could not find out what the problem was therefore since there are lot of knowledgable people here please help me.
Does anybody know what that means on the Eibach installation instructions for the IS350 kit. It says everything bushing and joints need to be tightened with the full weight of the car on the suspension. What is a bushing? Which joints are they referring to? Do they mean lower the car and then tighten the top of the suspensio that sticks out to the trunk?
Lastly, does anybody know a great shop I may bring my car to fix this issue if my tech cannot figure it out?
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Here are some pictures but they are crappy.
05-12-06, 08:57 PM
#6
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: IL
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds like you have the same problem that I had when my IS was lowered. Mine was quickly fixed when the two bolts on the lower swing arm were torqued down. Make sure that they REALLY tighten those bolts. The mechanic that worked on mine even made a comment about how tight they had to be and did it by hand instead of using the impact wrench. If that doesn't work it could be that the strut was not tightened all the way when the new spring was installed. If that is the case, the entire strut needs to come out and the bolt on the top needs to be torqued down. I hope this helps, good luck.
Originally Posted by NINEZeRO
I just installed some Eibach Springs and I am impressed with the increase in firmness and amount of drop. I have +36 offset all around and rubbing is not an issue unless the steering wheel is turned completely (even then the rub is no worse than stock wheels and springs).
One issue that I do have and need URGENT help is that I hear some clicking/rattling noise from the rear. It sounds like something is loose but I saw the tech tighthen everything and double check again after I test drove the car. =We could not find out what the problem was therefore since there are lot of knowledgable people here please help me.
Does anybody know what that means on the Eibach installation instructions for the IS350 kit. It says everything bushing and joints need to be tightened with the full weight of the car on the suspension. What is a bushing? Which joints are they referring to? Do they mean lower the car and then tighten the top of the suspensio that sticks out to the trunk?
Lastly, does anybody know a great shop I may bring my car to fix this issue if my tech cannot figure it out?
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Here are some pictures but they are crappy.
One issue that I do have and need URGENT help is that I hear some clicking/rattling noise from the rear. It sounds like something is loose but I saw the tech tighthen everything and double check again after I test drove the car. =We could not find out what the problem was therefore since there are lot of knowledgable people here please help me.
Does anybody know what that means on the Eibach installation instructions for the IS350 kit. It says everything bushing and joints need to be tightened with the full weight of the car on the suspension. What is a bushing? Which joints are they referring to? Do they mean lower the car and then tighten the top of the suspensio that sticks out to the trunk?
Lastly, does anybody know a great shop I may bring my car to fix this issue if my tech cannot figure it out?
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Here are some pictures but they are crappy.
Trending Topics
05-13-06, 01:12 AM
#8
with regard to the suggestion in the eibach instructions....
Not sure how the bushings are designed in these cars but on my old Civic, if you lowered your car and didn't loosen all the bolts anywhere the suspension pivots, and then tightened the bolts while the suspension was hanging full sag, you would actually preload your bushings when you lowered the car to the ground.
The busings on Hondas are molded ONTO the metal sleeves inside them. The bolts tighten these sleves so they actually wont spin, rather the rubber just twists, thus adding resistance. When you lower the car, the bushings twist even more, causing them to wear out early and to even add different amounts of preload to each corner. And for the ones that you tighten when the suspension is at full sag add a LOT more preload to the bushing.
So what we did when we lowered cars was to loosen all the pivot points on the suspension, suspend the front end with jackstands placed under the lower spindle or arm. Then put jackstands on back, (but not on the suspension) so that the car sat even, but the front suspension would compress like it was sitting at ride height.
Then tightened all the pivot points in front. Then repeated the same procedure for the back.
This took all the preload (extra twist) out of the bushings and provided a slightly smoother ride, more even damping from corner to corner and should add life to the bushings.
Sorry for the long explanation...
Not sure how the bushings are designed in these cars but on my old Civic, if you lowered your car and didn't loosen all the bolts anywhere the suspension pivots, and then tightened the bolts while the suspension was hanging full sag, you would actually preload your bushings when you lowered the car to the ground.
The busings on Hondas are molded ONTO the metal sleeves inside them. The bolts tighten these sleves so they actually wont spin, rather the rubber just twists, thus adding resistance. When you lower the car, the bushings twist even more, causing them to wear out early and to even add different amounts of preload to each corner. And for the ones that you tighten when the suspension is at full sag add a LOT more preload to the bushing.
So what we did when we lowered cars was to loosen all the pivot points on the suspension, suspend the front end with jackstands placed under the lower spindle or arm. Then put jackstands on back, (but not on the suspension) so that the car sat even, but the front suspension would compress like it was sitting at ride height.
Then tightened all the pivot points in front. Then repeated the same procedure for the back.
This took all the preload (extra twist) out of the bushings and provided a slightly smoother ride, more even damping from corner to corner and should add life to the bushings.
Sorry for the long explanation...
05-13-06, 07:20 AM
#9
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 1,075
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by tonyxcom
with regard to the suggestion in the eibach instructions....
Not sure how the bushings are designed in these cars but on my old Civic, if you lowered your car and didn't loosen all the bolts anywhere the suspension pivots, and then tightened the bolts while the suspension was hanging full sag, you would actually preload your bushings when you lowered the car to the ground.
The busings on Hondas are molded ONTO the metal sleeves inside them. The bolts tighten these sleves so they actually wont spin, rather the rubber just twists, thus adding resistance. When you lower the car, the bushings twist even more, causing them to wear out early and to even add different amounts of preload to each corner. And for the ones that you tighten when the suspension is at full sag add a LOT more preload to the bushing.
So what we did when we lowered cars was to loosen all the pivot points on the suspension, suspend the front end with jackstands placed under the lower spindle or arm. Then put jackstands on back, (but not on the suspension) so that the car sat even, but the front suspension would compress like it was sitting at ride height.
Then tightened all the pivot points in front. Then repeated the same procedure for the back.
This took all the preload (extra twist) out of the bushings and provided a slightly smoother ride, more even damping from corner to corner and should add life to the bushings.
Sorry for the long explanation...
Not sure how the bushings are designed in these cars but on my old Civic, if you lowered your car and didn't loosen all the bolts anywhere the suspension pivots, and then tightened the bolts while the suspension was hanging full sag, you would actually preload your bushings when you lowered the car to the ground.
The busings on Hondas are molded ONTO the metal sleeves inside them. The bolts tighten these sleves so they actually wont spin, rather the rubber just twists, thus adding resistance. When you lower the car, the bushings twist even more, causing them to wear out early and to even add different amounts of preload to each corner. And for the ones that you tighten when the suspension is at full sag add a LOT more preload to the bushing.
So what we did when we lowered cars was to loosen all the pivot points on the suspension, suspend the front end with jackstands placed under the lower spindle or arm. Then put jackstands on back, (but not on the suspension) so that the car sat even, but the front suspension would compress like it was sitting at ride height.
Then tightened all the pivot points in front. Then repeated the same procedure for the back.
This took all the preload (extra twist) out of the bushings and provided a slightly smoother ride, more even damping from corner to corner and should add life to the bushings.
Sorry for the long explanation...
-- im not to knowledgable about suspensions -- but thanks for the tip -- lol can somebody translate the previous post for me?
05-13-06, 09:43 AM
#10
That's very interesting.
Never thought of it that way. I always tighten every single bolt while the car is in the air.
Ninezero, It's definately something simple as a bolt loose. You should double check it all the springs are sitting properly. Also check if maybe the dead coils are hitting each other, might need some rubber sleeves. That could also be a it. Not sure.
By the way, it looks GREAT! I'm expecting to see some new pics later right?!
Never thought of it that way. I always tighten every single bolt while the car is in the air.
Ninezero, It's definately something simple as a bolt loose. You should double check it all the springs are sitting properly. Also check if maybe the dead coils are hitting each other, might need some rubber sleeves. That could also be a it. Not sure.
By the way, it looks GREAT! I'm expecting to see some new pics later right?!
05-13-06, 07:59 PM
#13
Originally Posted by NINEZeRO
Hmm... I dont really understand what you said -- im not to knowledgable about suspensions -- but thanks for the tip -- lol can somebody translate the previous post for me?
-- im not to knowledgable about suspensions -- but thanks for the tip -- lol can somebody translate the previous post for me?Excellent advice.
05-28-06, 05:35 AM
#14
Rookie
Join Date: May 2006
Location: MI
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by NINEZeRO
thanks for ur inputs everyone, i have to wait until monday to fix this issue... 
yep Pocky hopefully I'll post some daytime pics when I get a chance.
yep Pocky hopefully I'll post some daytime pics when I get a chance.
I have the exact same issure, even before my drop. It sould like keys in a tin can sound over bumps
I think it may be the calipers
did you get it fixed
