joodafoo

Hi all, first of all, id like to mention that i DID do some searching, but couldnt exactly find what i was looking for. I plan on replacing the lower front control arms on my 93 sc4 with supra ones. The shop quoted me about 500 bucks just for labor, and told me they couldnt just replace bushings for the UCAs so they entire arm needed to be replaced. so im checking to see how hard of a DIY job it is to replace them myself (the lower control arms atleast). What kind of tools ill need, how long it will take, what precautions i need to remember and how should i go about dealing with the upper bushings. Also if anyones bought supra LCA's from carson toyota, how exactly did you go about ordering them. I recall someone saying they got a set for 440 shipped, but im being quoted for 430 w/o shipping, so any help with those would be fantastic. But im very sorry if this has already been addressed, but i would be very grateful if anyone can shed some light on this.

bmatsu

I have all of my bushings replaced ( lower and upper control arms, front and back) plus had a new sway bar put on for $750. keep looking for another mechanic. (Diazen Bushings) If you are looking to change the bushings for OEM bushings then you might have to replace the UCA.

This as a DIY to me seems like a lot of work and you need the right tools. Just take your time and find a good mechanic that knows what he is doing.

$440 from Carson is not a bad price.

good luck

AME_VIP

iTrader: (2)

Really depends on the condition of your car.

One bolt was seized on each side. Had to drop the subframe ? to cut the bolts out. Both my sway bard end links had to be replaced.

I wouldn't attempt it without a hoist unless you enjoy working on your back

Personally, I rented the tools/hoist/shop space from a buddies shop and we did the TT LCA install together.

joodafoo

So what are you guy's input on the UCA's? I keep getting told that the entire control arm needed to be replaced.

bmatsu

If you are looking to improve performance then change the bushings of the uca, generally the bushings or the UCA themselves do not need to be changed.

If you change the UCA with the poly bushings the ride will get a bit harder, just a bit of warning ahead of time.

If you are after performance change "all' of the bushings to the poly bushings, if you are after an OEM ride just change the LCAs in the front and use the Valmos bushings for the rear.

good luck on the project

joodafoo

thanks for the help! i was planning on supra LCA's and vlamos UCA bushes. But if the upper bushes dont really NEED to be changed i suppose i could just keep the old ones.

tjj13401

I ordered the LCA's from Carson last fall for my '95 SC400. The shipping cost is small - I'm in Florida and I think I only paid $17 shipping, about $430 total back then. I did Vlamos bushings for the front UCA's. Yes, you can just replace the bushings on those. Do the steering rack bushings at the same time. They aren't real expensive (only 2 of them), and you're right there anyway..

Then on to the rear. Lots of stuff to replace there.. I'm only 1/3 through with that. I replaced the rear LCA's on the back. Best to replace the all the arms back there and not just the bushings because of the unknown wear factor of the ball joints.

TJ

Spitfire86

I did the Supra LCA swap by myself. It's pretty basic, you'll need a breaker bar or long pipe for leverage on some of the bolts.General tools are needed plus a torque wrench that can go to 255lbs, and a balljoint puller (although not absolutely necessary)

The whole thing took me about a day, and I'm a novice. There's a tutorial that was written up. I can e-mail it to you if you want. Everything is straight forward in my opinion and saved me $500!

joodafoo

If you still have the tutorial then please do! my email is joesusplus1@yahoo.com.

no2faber

Like previously mentioned, UCA's usually don't need to be replaced. It's the LCA's that bear more of the wear and tear--they actually move around a lot more I believe.

In terms of DIY, you're better off getting a completely new LCA and replacing it than going through the process of replacing bushings. First, you have to take off the LCA's, then you have to cut and burn the old bushings out, then fit the new ones in. My .02 is that if you're going through the trouble getting down there, just replace it.

If you have the right tools and some experience, I would say an hour to two per side max if you're just replacing the LCA. I would think replacing bushings would be up to twice that time.

I think i paid $420 for my LCA's shipped. I think it was $380 for the LCA's and 40 for shipping.


GL with the install

joodafoo

Yeah, i guess carson jumped the price a bit. i snagged em for 455 shipped. i figured if i was gonna go ahead and do the suspension repair i might just swap out tops and bottoms like some suggest. but honestly if i dont need new uca bushings, it would save me a world of trouble... and money

GreenBes

Anyone have the torque specs for installing the LCAs?

-Sam

RolxuSC400

I had asked the same question and I believe that was posted already but cant remember when. Do a search on the topic and check. I think I ended up going to the dealer for a printout from their manual and posted it in here.

GreenBes

I think I found that the bushing torque specs are supposed to be 166 ft lbs. Does this sound right? Anyone know what the balljoint torque spec is?

-Sam

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

The torque is 166 on all front and rear, upper and lower control arms. I have the specs for all of the bolts, but at home. I will get them out and post it tomorrow. Its from TM Engineering. The LCA install is not that bad, but time consuming. Just jack up the car and support it.. Pull the tires... Undo the sway bar links... then the bottom strut bolt... torqued at 106 foot pounds...If the sway bar link will NOT come off, it will have to cut off... very poor design by Lexus.. you have to use a hex on the inside of the bolt and turn the outer one at the same time... Most cases its rusted... the torque on these is 44 foot pounds...Then undo the 2 LCA bolts, they are 21 or 22 MM..Once this is undone, the lower ball joints does NOT have to come off, if you dont have a puller... It does make the job easier by removing the whole arm, but not neccassary... you then swing the arm around while being attached to the car, and start burning the old bushings out... use a propane torch, and walla, it will come out. The hotter the better. Be careful and not damage the LCA. There is NO inside metal sleeve that needs to be cut out, like the rear strut rod has... Be sure to clean the inside to bare metal and use the TM Engineering supplied grease. You can use thinner or sandpaper, if you dont have a wire wheel, attached to a drill....Install the new bushings and put everything back together... Remember the strut does NOT need to be removed nor the lower ball joint. ONLY if you want to make it easier for you. I just did this 2 weeks ago, and its fresh on my mind... Hope this helps!