Tie Rods..what's the trick to remove them?
12-18-07, 07:36 AM
#16
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Hey I know this is like 4 months old and I am pretty sure you got it fixed by now. The main thing to remember is to turn it as if you were tightening the nut. It doesn't make sense but it works. So remember, righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. Turn that nut to the right.
Once again, sorry to be getting back to you so late. Hope you got it done yourself.
sxwk12
Once again, sorry to be getting back to you so late. Hope you got it done yourself.
sxwk12
06-23-08, 07:46 PM
#17
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Listen i had the same issue, i used PB blaster, I SPRAYED the ****** out of it and let it soak for only 1 minute, and BAM, off it came!!! with friggen ease!!! USE PB BLASTER!!!!
09-18-08, 02:46 PM
#18
I meant to post on this thread a bit sooner than this but my friend found an alternative method.
If you can isolate the end of the tie rod in something like a bench vice, you can but more force on that 19mm nut without stripping the ever-loving hell out of the 14mm shaft. We happened to have such a beast handy and it took all of 2 minutes to get the tie rod end off the car.
I wish I had pictures to illustrate this better, but my I was concentrating on other things during those 4 days
If you can isolate the end of the tie rod in something like a bench vice, you can but more force on that 19mm nut without stripping the ever-loving hell out of the 14mm shaft. We happened to have such a beast handy and it took all of 2 minutes to get the tie rod end off the car.
I wish I had pictures to illustrate this better, but my I was concentrating on other things during those 4 days
09-19-08, 02:18 PM
#21
For all of you guys working on the suspension. Make absolutely sure you use metric and correct sized sockets. Don't half *** it and use the next size up because you don't have the exact size socket. I also know of people who use a SAE standard size to try to substitute since they didn't have the exact size metric and the standard one looked "close enough". They ended up stripping the nut completely and having to cut the whole nut off and repress a new bolt in. Also make sure the sockets are 6 point and not 12. At such high torque levels required for removal, you need the absolute best socket to nut fitment to prevent slippage and stripping the nut. Another tip for removal is to use a breaker bar. Basically a 18-28" bar to give more torque for loosening those hard to remove bolts. If you still can't get enough leverage, then put on a LONG steel pipe at the end of the breaker bar and it will be a breeze.
Check out the example below. I was removing the tough head bolts on my motor. Before the long extension bar, I had to have somone else help me pull the breaker bar to get the bolt loose. After the extension bar, I just grabbed the long bar at the very end and pulled with one hand and not too much effort
Check out the example below. I was removing the tough head bolts on my motor. Before the long extension bar, I had to have somone else help me pull the breaker bar to get the bolt loose. After the extension bar, I just grabbed the long bar at the very end and pulled with one hand and not too much effort
i do that too but with the tie rods, unless you have a tall lift, its impossible to fit a breaker bar. your best bet is PB blast. if you have a lift, by all means, find the longest cheater bar you can find. i had to have my friends brother that does construction work to do mine since I dont have a lift.
09-23-08, 08:46 AM
#22
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Alright after about 3 1/2 hours, we finally got it. All we did was put the vice grips on that 19mm nut and hit a couple of times. You see our problem was that we didn't know which way to turn either the nut or the tie rod. So to people who want to do this here's a tip, the nut is actually pressing up against the tie rod holding it in place. So instead of "loosing" the nut, you actually want to turn it like you are tightening the nut. Just knock it loose and the tie rod will come right off.
That was the driver's side that took me 3 1/2 hours. The passenger side took me about 10 minutes from start to finish. The very first thing we did after taking the caliper off was loosened that nut.
On a side note, I broke the boot on the Stabilizer Bar Link on the driver's side. gonna have to replace that sometime this week.
But even with those changed out, I still have a terrible vibration when I get up to about 65 mph and gets really bad at 80mph.
Once again, thanks for everyone's responses.
Sidney
That was the driver's side that took me 3 1/2 hours. The passenger side took me about 10 minutes from start to finish. The very first thing we did after taking the caliper off was loosened that nut.
On a side note, I broke the boot on the Stabilizer Bar Link on the driver's side. gonna have to replace that sometime this week.
But even with those changed out, I still have a terrible vibration when I get up to about 65 mph and gets really bad at 80mph.
Once again, thanks for everyone's responses.
Sidney
10-14-08, 08:01 AM
#25
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Always had a problem with this... my technique is to use some pb blaster of some sort, a ballpeen hammer and some nice swift blows to or around the area that needs some adjustment!
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