Raine's Garage Guides: Wheel Studs / Spacers How-To
09-19-08, 10:05 AM
#18
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09-20-08, 11:07 AM
#19
I was able to squeeze each stud around the lower left corner of the ebrake assembly.Just have to do one at a time then rotated the hub to insert each stud.
btw:I had trouble taking off the caliper bracket bolts....be very carefull not to hurt yourself,you really have to muscle those bolts to crack them loose.Air tools will make it much easier
09-20-08, 01:05 PM
#20
old news and trick but great write up for people that dont know them.
on out cars the easiest way to put the stud back in is to insert it and then use an open ended lug nut, or stock one, to pull the stud into the hub.
the rear is done easiest when you remove the ebrake assembly. its pointless to try to squeeze them out with the ebrake show assemblies in the way. it takes 5 minutes to take it apart.
i had to do 3 studs on the back wheel about 3 weeks ago. took a total of 30 minutes for the whole job. with the ebrake disassembly and reassembly. on the ground and no air tools.
its a cool website. i like it. the coilover install you described earlier can be simplified a bit too.
on out cars the easiest way to put the stud back in is to insert it and then use an open ended lug nut, or stock one, to pull the stud into the hub.
the rear is done easiest when you remove the ebrake assembly. its pointless to try to squeeze them out with the ebrake show assemblies in the way. it takes 5 minutes to take it apart.
i had to do 3 studs on the back wheel about 3 weeks ago. took a total of 30 minutes for the whole job. with the ebrake disassembly and reassembly. on the ground and no air tools.
its a cool website. i like it. the coilover install you described earlier can be simplified a bit too.
07-04-11, 08:26 PM
#22
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Sorry, not a fan of the use of "free" spacers with extended studs. This adds a second slip plane farther up the stud which vastly increases side loading on the studs which is never good. Also, if you notice in his writeup, the remaining hub lip extends only a very small amount beyond the spacer. THAT is now the resting surface for the wheel or hubcentric spacer as the case may be. Often there is a chamfer at the edge of the bore on the back of the wheel (or hubcentric spacer) to allow truly snug fitment when fully seated on a non-spaced hub. However, in this case, you have a situation where the is very little actual engagement/contact between the hub and the wheel bore. This can lead to a host of problems akin to the same types encountered when not using hubcentric spacers (or properly sized ones) when they are required. It's a very nice writeup and all, but I do not advocate the method displayed.
$.02
$.02
07-04-11, 10:35 PM
#23
Sorry, not a fan of the use of "free" spacers with extended studs. This adds a second slip plane farther up the stud which vastly increases side loading on the studs which is never good. Also, if you notice in his writeup, the remaining hub lip extends only a very small amount beyond the spacer. THAT is now the resting surface for the wheel or hubcentric spacer as the case may be. Often there is a chamfer at the edge of the bore on the back of the wheel (or hubcentric spacer) to allow truly snug fitment when fully seated on a non-spaced hub. However, in this case, you have a situation where the is very little actual engagement/contact between the hub and the wheel bore. This can lead to a host of problems akin to the same types encountered when not using hubcentric spacers (or properly sized ones) when they are required. It's a very nice writeup and all, but I do not advocate the method displayed.
$.02
$.02
I do understand your $0.02, but if I'm not mistaken it sounds like your $0.02 is toward the wheel spacer design, not the write-up.
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