Stainless Steel Brake Lines: Question.
#1
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Stainless Steel Brake Lines: Question.
Well I just purchased LS front calipers and was wondering if there is even any difference between the three: Rotora, StopTech, Goodrich, or good old ebay brand ss brake lines. There is a bit of a price difference between say the rotora's and the goodrich. But Rotora and StopTech are about the same. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
On a side note which rotors are people actually using? I don't like brake dust, I don't like loud noises when I brake, and I'm not to fond of resurfacing anyway.
On a side note which rotors are people actually using? I don't like brake dust, I don't like loud noises when I brake, and I'm not to fond of resurfacing anyway.
#2
I bought some ebay brembo slotted rotors for my dad's is3 they still look good after 6 months and are not loud at all and they dont seem to dust anymore than before (put on the oem lexus pads). I would recomend picking up a set ... cant beat the price.
LexusFiend
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#3
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Well I just purchased LS front calipers and was wondering if there is even any difference between the three: Rotora, StopTech, Goodrich, or good old ebay brand ss brake lines. There is a bit of a price difference between say the rotora's and the goodrich. But Rotora and StopTech are about the same. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
On a side note which rotors are people actually using? I don't like brake dust, I don't like loud noises when I brake, and I'm not to fond of resurfacing anyway.
On a side note which rotors are people actually using? I don't like brake dust, I don't like loud noises when I brake, and I'm not to fond of resurfacing anyway.
do you need new lines for the LS Calipers? if not, just use your stock stuff... with a properly flushed system, you will find less than 5% increase in brake pedal feel over good ol' normal lines... for street use, rubber lines are actually better because they don't really degrade like SS lines to...
#4
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brake lines
Cody gets my vote as usual. I think the improvement that most people see with SS lines is attributable to their having bled the air out of the lines as part of the installation process.
Every spring, suck your master cylinder dry, refill it and bleed your brakes till you get fresh/clear and bright fluid at each wheel. hard ped and no brake component failures. With all the horrifically expensive components in ABS, I would think this advice would be in nearly every post about brakes.
Happy holiday
John
Every spring, suck your master cylinder dry, refill it and bleed your brakes till you get fresh/clear and bright fluid at each wheel. hard ped and no brake component failures. With all the horrifically expensive components in ABS, I would think this advice would be in nearly every post about brakes.
Happy holiday
John
#5
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so, basically, all the guys with stainless steel lines and no aftermarket brakes have just about wasted their money...
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Just for discussion...
All the rubber hoses on your SC are now at least 10 years to 15 years and the rubber does get brittle and age.
I'm trying to figure this out, 'cuase my SS lines are either silicon / teflon wrapped in stainless steel mesh.
All the rubber hoses on your SC are now at least 10 years to 15 years and the rubber does get brittle and age.
I'm trying to figure this out, 'cuase my SS lines are either silicon / teflon wrapped in stainless steel mesh.
Last edited by SCoupe; 01-04-07 at 05:56 PM.
#7
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imho, cody is off base
Just for discussion...
All the rubber hoses on your SC are now at least 10 years to 15 years, but sure go ahead an use them because rubber never gets brittle or ages.
I'm trying to figure this out, 'cuase my SS lines are either silicon / teflon wrapped in stainless steel mesh.
Just for discussion...
All the rubber hoses on your SC are now at least 10 years to 15 years, but sure go ahead an use them because rubber never gets brittle or ages.
I'm trying to figure this out, 'cuase my SS lines are either silicon / teflon wrapped in stainless steel mesh.
however, the problem with stainless steel lines is that dust, dirt, grime can get inbetween the stainless braids, where it rubs against the actual line inside, causing wear on that line, thus a weak spot. True race cars that utilize stainless lines almost always have them wrapped in an outer casing to prevent this type of wear, and some manufacturers of SS lines for the street do this as well. When I was doing research about this years ago, I think I ran across info stating that Stainless steel lines are not DOT approved unless they have an outer casing which protects them from that type of contamination...
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#8
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Here's some info from Earl's regarding SS lines:
When considering the replacement of stock rubber brake hoses with stainless braid-protected hose of extruded Teflon you should consider the following facts:
The use of stainless braid protected Teflon brake hose assemblies will result in a firmer brake pedal, improved brake pedal "feel" and better brake modulation. These hoses will not necessarily provide longer hose life or any other advantage.
We have independent test lab reports on file showing that prototype assemblies exceeded D.O.T. recommendations in all categories. The only continuing test program however, is a 4000 PSI. hydrostatic pressure test of every assembly that we make. We do not claim that any individual hose assembly is certifiable to D.O.T. standards and we therefore must advise you that they are sold to be used on off-road applications only. We make no claim of usability or suitability for highway or road use. Teflon brake hoses must be installed by an experienced professional mechanic. After installation each hose must be both clean and free flowing. There must be no possibility that the installed hose assemblies can stretch, crimp or kink under any conditions of wheel travel and steering angle. As with any hose installation, periodic inspection of hose condition is essential.
One other point of info, Earl's actually manufactures PVC coated SS lines that would resist the type of deterioration I mentioned earlier...
When considering the replacement of stock rubber brake hoses with stainless braid-protected hose of extruded Teflon you should consider the following facts:
The use of stainless braid protected Teflon brake hose assemblies will result in a firmer brake pedal, improved brake pedal "feel" and better brake modulation. These hoses will not necessarily provide longer hose life or any other advantage.
We have independent test lab reports on file showing that prototype assemblies exceeded D.O.T. recommendations in all categories. The only continuing test program however, is a 4000 PSI. hydrostatic pressure test of every assembly that we make. We do not claim that any individual hose assembly is certifiable to D.O.T. standards and we therefore must advise you that they are sold to be used on off-road applications only. We make no claim of usability or suitability for highway or road use. Teflon brake hoses must be installed by an experienced professional mechanic. After installation each hose must be both clean and free flowing. There must be no possibility that the installed hose assemblies can stretch, crimp or kink under any conditions of wheel travel and steering angle. As with any hose installation, periodic inspection of hose condition is essential.
One other point of info, Earl's actually manufactures PVC coated SS lines that would resist the type of deterioration I mentioned earlier...
#9
The theory behind replacing the factory rubber lines with the SS lines is that the rubber lines expand during hard braking causing you to push the brake pedel harder to generate the stopping power you want. SS lines give you a firmer pedal for the racers who like to attack the turns need the pedal to be stiffer for that last minute slow down and allow for more of a consistent pedal feel.
As long as you dont purchase some cheap SS lines you should be fine. Be sure to purchase some that are coated preferrably teflon.
As long as you dont purchase some cheap SS lines you should be fine. Be sure to purchase some that are coated preferrably teflon.
#10
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The theory behind replacing the factory rubber lines with the SS lines is that the rubber lines expand during hard braking causing you to push the brake pedel harder to generate the stopping power you want. SS lines give you a firmer pedal for the racers who like to attack the turns need the pedal to be stiffer for that last minute slow down and allow for more of a consistent pedal feel.
As long as you dont purchase some cheap SS lines you should be fine. Be sure to purchase some that are coated preferrably teflon.
As long as you dont purchase some cheap SS lines you should be fine. Be sure to purchase some that are coated preferrably teflon.
the high quality ones are coated in PVC...
#11
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ok, in the end, I'll maintain that quality SS lines are an upgrade to the oem lines because of 5% stiffer pedal feel (can't say I could tell the diff).
Also, I'm just flat out not buyin into this hypothoetical corrision nonsense regarding the ss mesh collecting some dust and rubbing the hose to cause a burst, Very improbable (the dust would have to be at talcum powder level, if that, to get through the mesh) and s.b. harmless to a quality hose. SS hoses are used elsewhere (like fuel lines) & clutch lines without any of these issues. I can't see that a ss hose is going to fail you in the normal serviceable life of your vehicle. The DOT disclaimer from Earl's is nothing more than ambulance chaser attorny b.s. and certainly not a warning I'd think twice about.
Go with SS lines.
Also, I'm just flat out not buyin into this hypothoetical corrision nonsense regarding the ss mesh collecting some dust and rubbing the hose to cause a burst, Very improbable (the dust would have to be at talcum powder level, if that, to get through the mesh) and s.b. harmless to a quality hose. SS hoses are used elsewhere (like fuel lines) & clutch lines without any of these issues. I can't see that a ss hose is going to fail you in the normal serviceable life of your vehicle. The DOT disclaimer from Earl's is nothing more than ambulance chaser attorny b.s. and certainly not a warning I'd think twice about.
Go with SS lines.
Last edited by SCoupe; 12-24-06 at 04:54 PM.
#13
Well I just purchased LS front calipers and was wondering if there is even any difference between the three: Rotora, StopTech, Goodrich, or good old ebay brand ss brake lines. There is a bit of a price difference between say the rotora's and the goodrich. But Rotora and StopTech are about the same. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
On a side note which rotors are people actually using? I don't like brake dust, I don't like loud noises when I brake, and I'm not to fond of resurfacing anyway.
On a side note which rotors are people actually using? I don't like brake dust, I don't like loud noises when I brake, and I'm not to fond of resurfacing anyway.
Just disappointing this has to be done, given the money spent on the lines.
Maybe the Stoptech or any other brand doesn't require modifying the front lines?
Just to FYI.
#14
streamline: you shouldnt be modifying the lines to fit, it should be the clips that keep them attached to the body. trimming the inside of the clip to allow for the larger fitting will work fine and doesnt have the possibility of compromising the fittings.
next, yes by not having a teflon coating around the ss lines can cause abrasion and a speed up wear, but in no way are rubber lines better in an ideal comparison. rubber is the cheap way to build a line and is common in the auto industry because it is the cheapest/most effective route that will last until atleast the first major tune-up even if it is at a 75% effectiveness compared to stock. for something like this, less play is always better. especially when the part is not intended just to make the pedal feel stiffer but instead to attain a more linear reaction between pedal input and braking output.
next, yes by not having a teflon coating around the ss lines can cause abrasion and a speed up wear, but in no way are rubber lines better in an ideal comparison. rubber is the cheap way to build a line and is common in the auto industry because it is the cheapest/most effective route that will last until atleast the first major tune-up even if it is at a 75% effectiveness compared to stock. for something like this, less play is always better. especially when the part is not intended just to make the pedal feel stiffer but instead to attain a more linear reaction between pedal input and braking output.