Lower Ball joints
09-21-08, 11:05 PM
#212
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I'm going through my old subscriptions and forgot I had this...
I read this a couple of months ago, and it reminded me I needed to change my ball joints and fast! So I lagged for awhile and finally got the boyfriend to order the ball joints and agree to replace them. Literally the day before he was going to actually change them, they snapped while I was driving home from work.
Insurance paid to fix the car, but it took about a month, and I was driving a Kia Rondo rental. fun eh?
I read this a couple of months ago, and it reminded me I needed to change my ball joints and fast! So I lagged for awhile and finally got the boyfriend to order the ball joints and agree to replace them. Literally the day before he was going to actually change them, they snapped while I was driving home from work.
Insurance paid to fix the car, but it took about a month, and I was driving a Kia Rondo rental. fun eh?
09-24-08, 08:21 AM
#213
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hey guys,w as trying to order the parts off sewell's parts online, but they are charging $83.00 each ball joint? i saw members getting them for around $130 or so for both..do i need to call them or? thanks in advance.
09-24-08, 03:23 PM
#216
Last edited by CK6Speed; 09-24-08 at 11:11 PM.
09-03-09, 05:32 PM
#219
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Granted, the last posts were two+ years ago. Maybe my recent experience can help others in considering a medium to high mileage used GS purchase.
I'm brand new to CL and just yesterday replaced both lower ball joints as well as struts and strut rod bushings at 92K for my 2000 GS 300. Curious and having never experienced a suspension failure like this in other high mileage cars I've owned, I went on-line to find that ball joints do appear to be a GS weakness.
Bought it with 62K miles and I've owned the car for 32 months and just had my 90K major tune-up a month ago at an independent shop. After I mentioned some front end creaking, they found a minor loose engine cover. The creaking continued.
1,000 miles later, a sudden a dramatic worsening in steering response in the last two weeks - especially the last few days. I chose to take it straight to the dealer this time. After the thorough repair, it's a night and day improvement - I actually enjoy driving the car again. When the ball joints go, they go fast.
I had also asked the dealer to also check an annoying soft rattle coming from the rear suspension area. They found some loose sub-frame bolts (sure glad I asked them to check - the 90K independent shop didn't cure the same problem BTW). They asked if the car had been in a collision - not on my watch, I replied. I asked what their dealer service records showed - the original owner had purchased the car at this dealer and had all work done there as well. They said they would not have sold me the car if it was in a collision. With no charge for the sub-frame bolt tightening, no need to escalate this or run a CarFax report I guess. Hope others don't have the same sub-frame issue.
Curious, are there any other looming gotcha's one should look out for?
I'm brand new to CL and just yesterday replaced both lower ball joints as well as struts and strut rod bushings at 92K for my 2000 GS 300. Curious and having never experienced a suspension failure like this in other high mileage cars I've owned, I went on-line to find that ball joints do appear to be a GS weakness.
Bought it with 62K miles and I've owned the car for 32 months and just had my 90K major tune-up a month ago at an independent shop. After I mentioned some front end creaking, they found a minor loose engine cover. The creaking continued.
1,000 miles later, a sudden a dramatic worsening in steering response in the last two weeks - especially the last few days. I chose to take it straight to the dealer this time. After the thorough repair, it's a night and day improvement - I actually enjoy driving the car again. When the ball joints go, they go fast.
I had also asked the dealer to also check an annoying soft rattle coming from the rear suspension area. They found some loose sub-frame bolts (sure glad I asked them to check - the 90K independent shop didn't cure the same problem BTW). They asked if the car had been in a collision - not on my watch, I replied. I asked what their dealer service records showed - the original owner had purchased the car at this dealer and had all work done there as well. They said they would not have sold me the car if it was in a collision. With no charge for the sub-frame bolt tightening, no need to escalate this or run a CarFax report I guess. Hope others don't have the same sub-frame issue.
Curious, are there any other looming gotcha's one should look out for?
09-04-09, 01:13 PM
#222
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i just got my new balljoints and outer tie rods..
i have a question should i be able to move the new ball joints around easily? one of them seems easy to move and the other one is so stiff i can barley move it. same thing with the outer tie rods, why is one stiff then the other i don't get it..
i'm talking about moving them by hand right out of the box.. not installed
i have a question should i be able to move the new ball joints around easily? one of them seems easy to move and the other one is so stiff i can barley move it. same thing with the outer tie rods, why is one stiff then the other i don't get it..
i'm talking about moving them by hand right out of the box.. not installed
09-05-09, 05:16 PM
#223
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Inexpensive Balljoints
I just replaced upper control arm, lower balljoints, and outer tie rod ends.
Just a heads up purhased lower balljoints from Advance Auto they are Beck/Arnley. Had to order but only paid $50.00/ea with tax and everything.
Just a heads up purhased lower balljoints from Advance Auto they are Beck/Arnley. Had to order but only paid $50.00/ea with tax and everything.
09-11-09, 02:45 PM
#224
i just got my new balljoints and outer tie rods..
i have a question should i be able to move the new ball joints around easily? one of them seems easy to move and the other one is so stiff i can barley move it. same thing with the outer tie rods, why is one stiff then the other i don't get it..
i'm talking about moving them by hand right out of the box.. not installed
i have a question should i be able to move the new ball joints around easily? one of them seems easy to move and the other one is so stiff i can barley move it. same thing with the outer tie rods, why is one stiff then the other i don't get it..
i'm talking about moving them by hand right out of the box.. not installed
new balljoint/tie rods shouldnt move easily... mine were pretty hard to move around.
my old ones on the other hand moved easily.
edit: woot post 2000.
09-29-09, 09:53 PM
#225
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changed mine at like 140k, got a 98GS4.
I only changed my left one because it was making really bad noise....I'm wondering if my right one is due for a change. I didn't change my tie rods though...necessary to change them together?
I only changed my left one because it was making really bad noise....I'm wondering if my right one is due for a change. I didn't change my tie rods though...necessary to change them together?