Lower Ball joints
11-25-11, 03:51 PM
#256
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Did as you suggested and read through the whole thread.
A lot of the post were from people whose OEM balljoints failed drastically and suggestions that people change theirs. Ok, got that part. Then there's people mentioning that they replaced their OEM balljoints with OEM balljoints (the ones that I'm questioning if the quality is the same as the ones they replaced). There's some mention of the newer year balljoints being maybe better, but nothing concrete. Then there's a member whose balljoint failed after two years, which makes me question the OEM replacement balljoint even more. But since there's only one poster so far, it's not very conclusive. So I guess no answer yet to my question of why replace the OEM balljoint the we know fails drastically with another albeit brand new OEM balljoint that could fail just as bad? It would be like replacing defective part with a newer defective part.
Also on the part where I mentioned if there is a bulletin or a recall, there's none that I found for the 2nd gen GS just the 1st gen.
So anybody who wants to correct me or enlighten me, please do so.
A lot of the post were from people whose OEM balljoints failed drastically and suggestions that people change theirs. Ok, got that part. Then there's people mentioning that they replaced their OEM balljoints with OEM balljoints (the ones that I'm questioning if the quality is the same as the ones they replaced). There's some mention of the newer year balljoints being maybe better, but nothing concrete. Then there's a member whose balljoint failed after two years, which makes me question the OEM replacement balljoint even more. But since there's only one poster so far, it's not very conclusive. So I guess no answer yet to my question of why replace the OEM balljoint the we know fails drastically with another albeit brand new OEM balljoint that could fail just as bad? It would be like replacing defective part with a newer defective part.
Also on the part where I mentioned if there is a bulletin or a recall, there's none that I found for the 2nd gen GS just the 1st gen.
So anybody who wants to correct me or enlighten me, please do so.
Last edited by 77i9; 11-25-11 at 03:55 PM.
11-26-11, 11:37 AM
#257
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After seeing some pictures in this thread, I'll be switching my ball joints out soon too.. lol
just bought some on sewell.
(i've actually been trying to figure out what is making my car squeak and croak; is clicking the only noise that bad ball joints make??)
just bought some on sewell.
(i've actually been trying to figure out what is making my car squeak and croak; is clicking the only noise that bad ball joints make??)
11-30-11, 08:42 AM
#258
11-30-11, 01:24 PM
#259
I didn't read through the whole thread, so I'm not sure if this has been asked already.
If it's the OEM balljoint that fails, if you replace it with OEM won't it also break catastrophically in time? I guess I want to know if other brands of balljoints would suffer the same fate. I kinda want to pinpoint whether it's only the OEM balljoint that does this. If so, then it wouldn't make sense for me to use OEM balljoints. I know that some people would chime in saying that parts break down thru time. But I just don't accept that a part breaks so catastrophically. I would think that if there is a part on or in our cars that breaks like this and the car maker knew about it, that they would put a warning or a bulletin to ensure that the balljoints get replaced within a certain time frame.
Just wanted to share my thoughts as I'm contemplating using non-OEM brand.
If it's the OEM balljoint that fails, if you replace it with OEM won't it also break catastrophically in time? I guess I want to know if other brands of balljoints would suffer the same fate. I kinda want to pinpoint whether it's only the OEM balljoint that does this. If so, then it wouldn't make sense for me to use OEM balljoints. I know that some people would chime in saying that parts break down thru time. But I just don't accept that a part breaks so catastrophically. I would think that if there is a part on or in our cars that breaks like this and the car maker knew about it, that they would put a warning or a bulletin to ensure that the balljoints get replaced within a certain time frame.
Just wanted to share my thoughts as I'm contemplating using non-OEM brand.
12-05-11, 08:45 AM
#260
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So i changed out my ball joints this weekend, and it turns out that they were the problem all along!
problems before changing them: Croacking, sqeaking, stiff steering wheel, manually return wheel to center after turning..
problems afterwards: none... changing them out pretty much fixed everything.
Got these from Sewellparts for $130 ish.. And after spending over $600 changing out the steering rack/pump, i'm glad i finally fixed the problem
problems before changing them: Croacking, sqeaking, stiff steering wheel, manually return wheel to center after turning..
problems afterwards: none... changing them out pretty much fixed everything.
Got these from Sewellparts for $130 ish.. And after spending over $600 changing out the steering rack/pump, i'm glad i finally fixed the problem
12-05-11, 09:04 AM
#261
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I replaced my ball joints over the weekend with Moog. Spent $150 and did it myself. One of the easier task working on the front suspension. It def improve the steering and feel but I still have a shake at 75-85. I am starting to think it is my steering rack.I am going to do the mod next weekend when I am back in town and see if that helps.
12-08-11, 06:35 AM
#262
I replaced my ball joints over the weekend with Moog. Spent $150 and did it myself. One of the easier task working on the front suspension. It def improve the steering and feel but I still have a shake at 75-85. I am starting to think it is my steering rack.I am going to do the mod next weekend when I am back in town and see if that helps.
12-08-11, 07:29 AM
#263
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Not Moog I ment Beck/arnley. My tie rods were moog. I have never had a problem these brands in the past. With these being common problems for our cars, I cant see buying the same oem parts with no reassurances that the issues have been fixed. I don't track my GS, it spends 90% of the time on the hwy cruising
Goku thanks for the info. Next time I am buy ing parts I will look it up. My ball joints had over a inch of play in both of them and I had a 500 mile trip the next day, so I paid a little more to have right away.
Goku thanks for the info. Next time I am buy ing parts I will look it up. My ball joints had over a inch of play in both of them and I had a 500 mile trip the next day, so I paid a little more to have right away.
01-19-12, 11:20 PM
#264
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Can I replace my ball joints and tie rods from my '00 GS300 with a '05 GS300 ball joints and tie rods? Or should I just go with the moogs?
Last edited by GSTank; 01-19-12 at 11:23 PM.
02-17-12, 08:17 AM
#266
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I have an 02 GS300 w/ 129k miles and have been keeping an eye on my LBJs for the past year or so. I had the suspension inspected in April 2011 and everything checked out -- mechanic said "LBJs look okay at this time." I had new front brake pads and rotors installed last week and asked the mechanic to take a look at 'em again -- they said everything still looks okay, but 'some parts' are starting to look a little worn and cracked. (I'm not sure exactly what he was referring to -- bushings?)
Even though they keep checking out okay, all these threads about LBJ failure have made me really think about preemptively installing new LBJs (probably will buy the parts from Sewell -- $172 + $13 shipping = $185, not bad!). After all, they're probably going to keep checking out okay... until they actually fail, right?
I haven't done the park-turn-wheel-slowly-and-listen-for-creaking test yet, but I have heard a creaking sound from the front suspension for the past year -- though I thought that might be more related to shocks because I only hear it when going over speedbumps?
Even though they keep checking out okay, all these threads about LBJ failure have made me really think about preemptively installing new LBJs (probably will buy the parts from Sewell -- $172 + $13 shipping = $185, not bad!). After all, they're probably going to keep checking out okay... until they actually fail, right?
I haven't done the park-turn-wheel-slowly-and-listen-for-creaking test yet, but I have heard a creaking sound from the front suspension for the past year -- though I thought that might be more related to shocks because I only hear it when going over speedbumps?
140,000 they were trashed.. luckly they didnt break on me..
02-18-12, 01:31 AM
#268
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Changed mine today in my 2001 GS300 using genuine parts.Took about an hour to do the first one and then about 30 mins to do the second. Suspension shop could not fault the old ones and said they dont need changing, but guess what my clunks have gone. And that's after 60k miles in a revised model GS series 2.
Old ball joints could be turned around in their sockets with fingers after they were removed.
Old ball joints could be turned around in their sockets with fingers after they were removed.
05-23-12, 11:12 PM
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