clubfoot

lobuxracer is giving good advice, same thing I did when I got my car and my brakes don't squeak. I even saw the same procedure on Spike TV's Powerblock after they converted a stock Mustang GT to a Roush. That was the recommended procedure from Roush to bed in their brakes! They did 10 stops from about 70mph down to almost a stop, but not stopping, then drove it on the high way to allow the brakes to cool down.

homer4598

Please explain why? I happen to agree with lobuxracer, but would love to know why you feel it is bad to brake hard in a new car. Kinda of leads one to ask whether one should brake hard or get into the accident (I'll go for the braking hard personally).

ecr527

I've had my car for a year now and the brakes aren't (and hopefully won't be) squeaking.

Gtidan

Like I said: There are many different thoughts of the subject to mention them all here. Yours is but one of them........a good one though...

RyanDe680

Mine appear to be squeeking now too, same issues. I will try this braking thing in the hopes that it works...

al503

Bedding the brakes in is the way to go. A couple of things to add:

There really is no set number of stops IMHO. It all depends on the speed, how hard you're actually braking, etc.

I brake right up to the point of the ABS kicking in. You don't want to invoke ABS so brake hard but don't get too close to it just in case.

Repeat as many times as necessary to get the pads to barely start smoking. Once they start to smoke, you're done. Drive around for 10 or 15 minutes without applying the brakes if possible to let them fully cool down with the new pad deposits on the rotor.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Agreed about the set number of stops. I don't actually stop at all, I left foot brake about five times at freeway speed with my foot in the gas hard to get the brakes nice and hot (but not glazed), then cruise non-stop (freeway, no traffic) for at least 20 minutes to allow the discs to cool. However, I've been doing this for about 25 years, so I have a pretty good feel for it.

syn1313

well my car is squeeking like a pig on his way to the slaughter house. i have 15000 on it and took her in. Was told i needed new pads and new rotors. This is a sports car and i need to change my pads and rotors every 15k.. told them i had this noise since the start but never came in cause i never really had time. Well it's going to cost $585 to fix the problem Told him to stick the pad up his *** and i'm going aftermarket Pads and Rotors. He told me i'll be back.. *** hole..

carlos

iTrader: (1)

i dont understand why they always say you will need new rotors as well or that they have to be turned.

if they are not warped... why turn them?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Because they make more money by selling you new rotors.

If I am using the same pad and the rotors measure OK, then I don't bother with anything, just change the pads and bed them in and I'm done.

If I am changing pads, I measure the rotors to be sure they are still OK, scuff them with something effective, and install new pads.

I never turn rotors ever. If anything, I'll have them reground, but turning them on a brake lathe is very low tech and not nearly as effective as centerless grinding. In the end, all you are doing is removing the old pad material anyway. Rotors really don't warp unless you do something idiotic to them like get them red hot and spray cold water directly on them.

carlos

iTrader: (1)

what do u mean scuff the rotors? to remove the pad material left behind?

if turning them just removes the old pad material, why is it not a good idea?

what does regrounding do?

sorry for all the questions.. but your input is greatly appreciated.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Scuffing means using an abrasive material (I like red Scotchbrite pads) to remove the old pad material before bedding in the new pads. It is also possible to scuff rotors with very aggressive pad compounds like Hawk Blues. All you are doing is removing the layer of pad material stuck to the surface of the disc so it won't interfere with the new pad material you want to stick on it.

Turning rotors in a brake lathe takes a single tooth and drags it across the disc surface like an old LP. As the rotor turns, the tooth moves inward to remove metal until the surface is relatively flat. This essentially tears the metal off the surface to a predetermined depth.

Centerless grinding uses surfacing stones to progressively remove metal until the surface is flat. It also uses a tearing kind of action, but the amount of metal removed is smaller, the disc can't resonate and create a pebble grain surface as it can with a single tooth, the stones use a coolant to keep the temperature under control, and it leaves a cross-hatch finish instead of a linear circular finish. Your brakes were surfaced this way at the factory.

angelmatri

I had the same problem at 16,000 miles, they told me that i needed to replace the brake pads and the rotors that would cost around $750 dls, I was pissed off, at first i was talking nice with a lady a the dealership and she talked to the manager, and they didn't do anything about it, and after i told them that i was going to send to court (small claims) so after fighting for about an hour I saved $750 dls they told me they were gonna fix them for free just for this time, hopefully this will help