TSB Brake Change
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Well...
I'm going under the knife March 9th for my car to get the brakes changed.
I'm not sure if it'll help with the squeal but I hope it works with all the brake dust. After two days of driving it appears that I have brushed alum. wheels instead of pretty silver.
So I guess this can be a thread where we can complain about the change or praise it.
My question is, and I hope Lobux reads this.... When I get the new brake pads do I need to brake them in with the repeated almost stops? I'm not very familiar with brakes I just know I need them to stop!
Also, this is just the pads right? Not the rotor or the caliper? I love the fact the rotor is almost as big as the wheel. Hehe bragging rights! So any clarification would be appreciated!
I don't really drag, auto cross, or floor my car repeatedly so I don't think I'll notice that much of a performance decrease. 97% of my driving is I-State.
I have faith in my dealer, hopefully they won't mess this up! Also going to have them look at my engine and make sure there isn't an oil leak. I'm outside of the VIN range but would love to have that state of mind that there is NO problems... I'll keep all of you posted on what happens!! Until then.. need new brake feed back!
I'm going under the knife March 9th for my car to get the brakes changed.
I'm not sure if it'll help with the squeal but I hope it works with all the brake dust. After two days of driving it appears that I have brushed alum. wheels instead of pretty silver.
So I guess this can be a thread where we can complain about the change or praise it.
My question is, and I hope Lobux reads this.... When I get the new brake pads do I need to brake them in with the repeated almost stops? I'm not very familiar with brakes I just know I need them to stop!
Also, this is just the pads right? Not the rotor or the caliper? I love the fact the rotor is almost as big as the wheel. Hehe bragging rights! So any clarification would be appreciated!
I don't really drag, auto cross, or floor my car repeatedly so I don't think I'll notice that much of a performance decrease. 97% of my driving is I-State.
I have faith in my dealer, hopefully they won't mess this up! Also going to have them look at my engine and make sure there isn't an oil leak. I'm outside of the VIN range but would love to have that state of mind that there is NO problems... I'll keep all of you posted on what happens!! Until then.. need new brake feed back!
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You would be best off to bed them in to prevent squealing. You won't get new rotors or calipers, just pads. From Stoptech's website:
Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
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FWIW, I'm having mine done today. I'll figure out which of the now many brake threads to update with my observations.
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You would be best off to bed them in to prevent squealing. You won't get new rotors or calipers, just pads. From Stoptech's website:
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No from what I understand its just pads..
But I would like to assume that if they saw something irregular about the rotors they would take them to the machine!
But I would like to assume that if they saw something irregular about the rotors they would take them to the machine!
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Just pads. No resurface (thank you, I wouldn't have done it myself either!)
I bedded mine in on the way home, but they felt very much the same as the original pad for normal street duty right from the start. The also don't have the grinding noise when you let the car creep at <1 mph. Very smooth. They require a very slight amount more pressure, but it's more to my liking anyway. So far no complaints. Now to see how they dust...
I bedded mine in on the way home, but they felt very much the same as the original pad for normal street duty right from the start. The also don't have the grinding noise when you let the car creep at <1 mph. Very smooth. They require a very slight amount more pressure, but it's more to my liking anyway. So far no complaints. Now to see how they dust...
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I bet you that the IS250 brake pads material are the same as the IS350. The 350 just has bigger calipers and rotors. Lexus uses "Performance brakes" as marketing gimic.
After 10 miles of driving I have a coat of brake dust on the wheels. And after 40 miles I can visually see heavy dark spots of brake dust on the wheel. So this means I have to clean my wheel EVERY DAY because you can easily see brake dust just after driving a few miles.
So the people that said the IS250 doesnt create that much brake dust as the IS350 are dead wrong.
After 10 miles of driving I have a coat of brake dust on the wheels. And after 40 miles I can visually see heavy dark spots of brake dust on the wheel. So this means I have to clean my wheel EVERY DAY because you can easily see brake dust just after driving a few miles.
So the people that said the IS250 doesnt create that much brake dust as the IS350 are dead wrong.
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