marksexton

All the balljoints look good and I went ahead and tightened the steering pretensioner and it didn't help.

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

The balljoints might look good, but sometimes they aren't. You can try to replace it yourself, at $120 for the pair it's a heck of a lot cheaper than swapping out to a different set of tires. I just did my balljoints and it made a noticable difference on my car and I have 21K miles. I do tend to drive the car a bit hard though

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

at 77k your castor arm bushings are cracked and torn inside.. even in its brand new state it was designed poorly.. it was designed to allow a tremendous about of flex to yield as much comfort to the driver , but with castor angles constantly changing while load is placed on them while drivng it directly affects your toe and camber angles which yields vibrations to the steering wheel.. very poor deign for performance .. get the daizen bushings and change the upper a arm and castor bushings only but dont change the lower control arm bushings....

also change the lower balljoints and outer tie rod ends , those as well were designed for comfort and not perf so they wear very quickly then get a good alignment

use a shop that uses hunter equipment and is willing to be patient with your car


make sure they start in the rear first , adjust camber to around -.50 to -.75 deg camber , make sure thrust angle is a 0 and total toe around 10

front make sure camber is around -.7 to -1.0 deg and adjust toe either side from .5 to .8 deg toe in for a total toe of around .15 deg

these settings will yield great tire wear and will prevent the tires from scrubbing and making the sure the rear thrust angle at 0 will make sure the rear is not trying to steer the front

i have done all of the aforementioned and my steering wheel is smooth at any speed and i am on 19's (soon to be 20's) with a full stiff and ridgid susp setup

Hectorm

Raise you car SAFELY (REAR) and accelerate gently to the speed youre talking. If you feel the vibration it could be the drive shaft (from the trans. to rear differential) or bad joint.(union) If not then is the front drive train.
Dont stop suddently or by brakes, let it do slowly.
Post the results!

Scott1258

Lex,

Why don't you want to change the lower control arm bushing?

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

I think thats the set of bushings that have the most rotational movement, thus the most likely to squeak.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

not quite that jeff

changing the lowers seems to have a bad effect on toe .. it does not allow for much if any deflection as the oem rubbers would so you follow every crack and groove and riple in the road.. it tramlines like crazy.. i put back on the stock arms and kept the rest and bingo my abnormal tire wear is gone.. i highly recc doing castor arm and upper a arm for there you want no deflection to keep overall alignment at setting

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the correction. I'll keep that in mind when I get my set installed.

Scott1258

Lex,

Thanks for the explanation on the lower control arm bushings.

I've already installed the kit - so which one is the lower control arm bushing? Is it the big ones? And do you know what the cost is for new oem ones?

I'm having tramaling and want this to go away. However, are there any negatives to going back to stock such as the wheel shake coming back? All the wheel shake went away with the Daizen bushings kit - which was great! but the tramaling drives me crazy. Tires are Yokahama Advan Sports 245-45-18. I did the Daizen steering rack bushings and this helped but still some tramiling. Is the tramaling caused by the Daizen bushings or is it caused by brand and make of tire and/or alignment issues?

Again, any negatives when you replaced the Daizen lower control arm bushing with the stock ones and/or any positives with going back to stock too?

Do you know if the mod pavler did with the washers on the steering rack will solve the tramaling with the Daizen bushings installed? If the oem LCA are expensive might be worth a try.

thanks again,

Scott

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

the shimmy went away because you did the castor arm and upper a arms , your tramlining is because the lower does not allow much if any deflection so car will follow every groove and crown in roads .. you almost have to fight the wheel. i went back to stock lowers and immed my alignment was better and tracking improved by at least 90% with almost 0 tramlining

Scott1258

Lex,

So, since I have already done the daizen bushings do I need to buy a new oem lower control arm, or can we just buy oem bushings and have them installed? And by chance do you have a part number?

And is this a do it yourself job or one for the mechanic?

thanks,

Scott

lexusondubs

iTrader: (9)

if i said it once i said it a thousand times ed your the man when it comes to the gs suspension !!! i have to get with you soon so i can ovehaul my suspension and ill need your reccomendations !!!

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

thanks shawn for the comps anytime bro let me know when you want to come down for the overhaul

ElitistK

iTrader: (4)

lexforlife:



which part are you talking about? the part circled in red or blue?

Scott1258

It's the blue one.