Ball Joints need to be replaced?
#1
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Hey, I was wondering how can I tell if i'm going to have to replace the FLCA Ball Joints. When ever I reverse, and I move a bit you can actually see the whole wheel moving, it also pops. I already ordered some bushings from TM Enginering, but now i'm starting to think it's the ball joints. Thanks hit me up with some help.
#2
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You technically can't replace them without a little research and some capable machining skills-- as you'd have to cut/press out the orig. and bore a press-fit sleeve for a ball joint from a vehicle that accepts replaceables-- the key is that it would need to have the identical taper to fit our spindle--
That shouldn't be that hard to do, I just don't have a shot LCA to work on-- someone told me they'd send me theirs and just never did it--
To Check your ball joints:
Use a dial indicator-- an acceptable amt. of play is normal-- this should be close to .005" -- if I remember correctly-- In other words, when you check for play, no play should be visible-- and definitely not audible, in as: clunks or pops..
That shouldn't be that hard to do, I just don't have a shot LCA to work on-- someone told me they'd send me theirs and just never did it--
To Check your ball joints:
Use a dial indicator-- an acceptable amt. of play is normal-- this should be close to .005" -- if I remember correctly-- In other words, when you check for play, no play should be visible-- and definitely not audible, in as: clunks or pops..
Last edited by MJHSC400; 04-10-07 at 10:15 AM.
#3
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For 99% of us, it's a new control arm. There's people in the classifieds parting out nice SC's with good parts. You might check in there for a replacement control arm, and slap your new bushings in them. Good luck.
#5
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You can't check play in thousandths of an inch with a torque wrench--
A very big flat blade ( like a 3 foot pry bar) with a dial indicator clamped to the LCA and the indiicator against the spindle in a proper spot will tell you your play-
Usually a few thousandths is acceptable, maybe up to .005" -- not sure on these specific ball joints though
A very big flat blade ( like a 3 foot pry bar) with a dial indicator clamped to the LCA and the indiicator against the spindle in a proper spot will tell you your play-
Usually a few thousandths is acceptable, maybe up to .005" -- not sure on these specific ball joints though
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I got one of these... use it all the time just for this...
http://www.channellock.com/acb/store...Tongu_P4C3.cfm
I just pinch the ball joint from the top and bottom... ANY movement is bad, when you give it a good pinch, you'll feel it.
miked- Sounds like your bushings are bad.
JG- The toyota RI says to check with the torque wrench, but that's a PIA.
http://www.channellock.com/acb/store...Tongu_P4C3.cfm
I just pinch the ball joint from the top and bottom... ANY movement is bad, when you give it a good pinch, you'll feel it.
miked- Sounds like your bushings are bad.
JG- The toyota RI says to check with the torque wrench, but that's a PIA.
#7
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There will be a few thousandths of play my man--- just not like .030" --
Those pliers may be a good method to try to make the joint move, but they wont read play in thousandths of an inch--
Check the FSM --
Those pliers may be a good method to try to make the joint move, but they wont read play in thousandths of an inch--
Check the FSM --
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Have the FSM... if I used a dial indicator everytime on every ball joint I would never make time... basically, no move, look elsewhere, especially when dealing with excessive (and noticeable) wheel movement. A ball joint with
.005 (which is less than two pieces of paper stacked) play will not have wheel movement.
When dealing with the torque readings... a worn ball joint will have little resistance to spinning, where a new one can be pretty difficult to spin by hand period (same goes for tierods).
.005 (which is less than two pieces of paper stacked) play will not have wheel movement.
When dealing with the torque readings... a worn ball joint will have little resistance to spinning, where a new one can be pretty difficult to spin by hand period (same goes for tierods).
#9
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I agree-- If you can SEE the movement-- it's sure as hell shot-- If it's not visible at all-- you may check with an indicator just to be sure--
But most of the time the bushings ARE the first to go and you most likely have shot bushings if you drive a Lexus that's over 10 years old period--
But most of the time the bushings ARE the first to go and you most likely have shot bushings if you drive a Lexus that's over 10 years old period--
#10
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Hey, I was wondering how can I tell if i'm going to have to replace the FLCA Ball Joints. When ever I reverse, and I move a bit you can actually see the whole wheel moving, it also pops. I already ordered some bushings from TM Enginering, but now i'm starting to think it's the ball joints. Thanks hit me up with some help.
Last edited by Project300; 04-14-07 at 06:32 AM. Reason: duh
#11
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I'm in the same situation, I've been unable to reach todd though.. finally tried email today.
My ball joints were approaching the end of their life, so I ordered new LCA's from Aliga, not sure if I can recover the diazen bushes, I think they are gone, so right now I have he replacement LCA's and oem bushes..
Been trying to contact Todd to order new sleeves and then I can order new bushes from diazen.. I really like the POLY's they seem to absorb more of the impact on the road.
My ball joints were approaching the end of their life, so I ordered new LCA's from Aliga, not sure if I can recover the diazen bushes, I think they are gone, so right now I have he replacement LCA's and oem bushes..
Been trying to contact Todd to order new sleeves and then I can order new bushes from diazen.. I really like the POLY's they seem to absorb more of the impact on the road.
#12
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If you can see the wheel moving (I missed when you said that) --- It's no doubt your bushings--
That's asymptomatic for bushings being worn out-- strange popping, clunking, and bad alignment problems-- really the whole freakin lower arm is just flopping back and forth at the mercy of the wind--
Get those suckers replaced pronto-- you'll thank yourself-- Lexus designed these LCA bushes to last about 60k ~ 80k -- that's it-- That's a HELL of a lot of miles in Japan-- usually takes 15 years to put that many miles on a car there-- so they planned well, but didnt' design the 200k mile possibility into them-- I doubt they cared-- more maintenance revenue--
That's asymptomatic for bushings being worn out-- strange popping, clunking, and bad alignment problems-- really the whole freakin lower arm is just flopping back and forth at the mercy of the wind--
Get those suckers replaced pronto-- you'll thank yourself-- Lexus designed these LCA bushes to last about 60k ~ 80k -- that's it-- That's a HELL of a lot of miles in Japan-- usually takes 15 years to put that many miles on a car there-- so they planned well, but didnt' design the 200k mile possibility into them-- I doubt they cared-- more maintenance revenue--