Suspension and Brakes Springs, shocks, coilovers, sways, braces, brakes, etc.
Old 01-07-15, 12:33 PM
How-Tos on this Topic
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:

Browse all: Steering and Suspension
Print Wikipost

DIY Lower Ball Joints for the 2nd Gen GS. - Step by Step Instructions and Pictures

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-06-14 | 12:57 PM
  #151  
akafixture's Avatar
akafixture
Driver
 
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 187
Likes: 5
From: ca
Default

Will be tackling this repair this weekend. I hear noise when I go into driveways and my buddy was out side and said he would hear rattling! not good.
Old 08-12-14 | 05:14 PM
  #152  
monkey92's Avatar
monkey92
Lead Lap
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 750
Likes: 8
From: texas
Default

how often should the ball joints be changed on a car that is lowered? replaced mine 2 years ago but im starting to hear some noises again.
Old 09-15-14 | 10:23 PM
  #153  
702GS's Avatar
702GS
Driver
 
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 1
From: NV
Default

I would assume if you are hearing "noises again" its time for a BJ swap!
Old 09-16-14 | 05:48 PM
  #154  
702GS's Avatar
702GS
Driver
 
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 1
From: NV
Default

Just checking these are the correct parts. From Sewell website.

Ball Joints-Ball Joint Set (L&R) Part #: 433403941502 (In Stock) $191.78
Front Suspension-Outer Tie Rod Set Part #: 454605901502 (In Stock) $146.42

Total price without shipping: $338.20

This seems kinda steep based on other prices I have seen in this thread, thoughts?
Old 09-16-14 | 05:50 PM
  #155  
monkey92's Avatar
monkey92
Lead Lap
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 750
Likes: 8
From: texas
Default

use your clublexus sewell discount. i believe i paid roughly 60 bucks that first time i changed them.
Old 09-16-14 | 07:27 PM
  #156  
702GS's Avatar
702GS
Driver
 
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 1
From: NV
Default

Originally Posted by monkey92
use your clublexus sewell discount. i believe i paid roughly 60 bucks that first time i changed them.
I was not aware I was eligible for a "clublexus" sewell discount, where can I find more information?
Old 09-16-14 | 07:40 PM
  #157  
702GS's Avatar
702GS
Driver
 
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 137
Likes: 1
From: NV
Default

Originally Posted by 702GS
I was not aware I was eligible for a "clublexus" sewell discount, where can I find more information?
sorry, noob mistake. Signed up to Sewell and b00m!
Old 04-13-15 | 09:22 PM
  #158  
lvfstde's Avatar
lvfstde
Driver School Candidate
 
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 37
Likes: 1
From: Cali
Default

Old 08-16-15 | 02:51 PM
  #159  
SenecaRex's Avatar
SenecaRex
Rookie
 
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 59
Likes: 6
From: FL
Default

Haven't read all the comments, but if you are replacing the tie rod ends, there's really no sense in trying to remove them from the LBJ. Just remove the LBJ, then twist the LBJ/tie rod end off as one unit, instead of pressing the tie rod end out of the LBJ and taking them off separately.
Saves a little bit of time!
Old 04-13-16 | 06:03 AM
  #160  
sbagdon's Avatar
sbagdon
Advanced
 
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 520
Likes: 33
From: MI
Default

Finally found this with Google, posting for reference:


Lower ball joint castle nut to lower control arm: 112 ft lbs (152 Nm). Loosen (not tighen) to align cotter pin.
Attach lower ball joint to knuckle, hand tighten, do not torque yet.
Outer tie rod end castle nut to lower ball joint: 48 ft lbs (65 Nm). Loosen (not tighen) to align cotter pin.
Lower ball joint bolt to knuckle: 83 ft lbs (113 Nm)


Caliper bolt to knuckle: 87 ft lbs (118 Nm)


If anyone has access to the factory manual, what is the part number for the SST to remove the outer tie rod end and lower ball joint? Thanks!
The following users liked this post:
zeroboyse (07-29-19)
Old 04-14-16 | 09:24 PM
  #161  
mitsuguy's Avatar
mitsuguy
Maintenance Moderator
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6,388
Likes: 26
From: AZ
Default

Originally Posted by sbagdon


If anyone has access to the factory manual, what is the part number for the SST to remove the outer tie rod end and lower ball joint? Thanks!
All you need is a hammer.
Old 04-15-16 | 03:46 AM
  #162  
sbagdon's Avatar
sbagdon
Advanced
 
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 520
Likes: 33
From: MI
Default

Originally Posted by mitsuguy
All you need is a hammer.
You are correct. All you need is a hammer. I want to use a proper tool. I have a rather extensive collection of Toyota/OTC SSTs that I've accumulated over the years, and was curious if I had the prescribed tool. I missed out on the last set of oem '98 factory service manuals on eBay, so I'm stuck until another set comes up. In the meantime, just trying to see if I have that part number buried somewhere, or not. Thanks.
Old 04-17-16 | 07:07 PM
  #163  
GS400V8's Avatar
GS400V8
Intermediate
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 399
Likes: 44
From: '
Default

This thread is great! I appreciate everyone who took the time to give pictures, tips and advice. I thoroughly inspected everything in my suspension by taking it apart with the help of this.
Old 04-25-16 | 03:48 AM
  #164  
sbagdon's Avatar
sbagdon
Advanced
 
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 520
Likes: 33
From: MI
Default

Originally Posted by sbagdon
Finally found this with Google, posting for reference:

Lower ball joint castle nut to lower control arm: 112 ft lbs (152 Nm). Loosen (not tighen) to align cotter pin.
Attach lower ball joint to knuckle, hand tighten, do not torque yet.
Outer tie rod end castle nut to lower ball joint: 48 ft lbs (65 Nm). Loosen (not tighen) to align cotter pin.
Lower ball joint bolt to knuckle: 83 ft lbs (113 Nm)

Caliper bolt to knuckle: 87 ft lbs (118 Nm)

If anyone has access to the factory manual, what is the part number for the SST to remove the outer tie rod end and lower ball joint? Thanks!
Did the lower ball joints yesterday. SST I had for lug studs (that's called out for ball joints for other models) didn't work, yet some ball joint separators had lying around did the job. Typical fixing of previous-mechanic's work... fortunately all the bolts were the correct thread, yet the caliper left-upper bolt was 18mm... and the left tie rod end had no cotter pin. Argh.

Both of the replaced ball joints had a metal-on-metal feel, when rotating them by hand. The new ones were very-difficult to move yet very smooth. Car is noticeably smoother at highway speeds, less float and wander, and a little steering wheel wiggle at highway speeds is gone (start to hurt wrist after about 20min of highway driving).
Old 10-12-16 | 07:25 AM
  #165  
airahcaz's Avatar
airahcaz
Instructor
 
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 956
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey
Default

Originally Posted by monkey92
how often should the ball joints be changed on a car that is lowered? replaced mine 2 years ago but im starting to hear some noises again.
Did you do yours after 2 years? It has been 5 years for me and wondering if I also now need to do them again.

Folks, how often do you change yours? Not a one time replacement for sure it seems?



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:08 PM.