Jeeze what an expensive alignment
08-12-07, 01:28 PM
#17
however, I would venture to say that whoever did your alignment just did a ****ty job... I run -2.1/-2.7 degrees negative camber and have very little camber wear... camber wear is not only due to camber, but toe as well..
08-12-07, 02:05 PM
#18
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I dont get camber wear, i get toe wear... ne1 know whats going on? I went in on my last alignment about a month ago and they couldnt get the Toe to within the specified range... I took it to a nismo certified dealer they do a lot of track setups and etc for us So Cal guys from the Zilvia threads, so im not doubting their abilty, but my toe in the rear is @ 2.43 Actual ~ 1.89 Before ~ Spec Range is only .25* .65* Ne1 know what could b killing my tow so horribly?
08-12-07, 03:01 PM
#19
I dont get camber wear, i get toe wear... ne1 know whats going on? I went in on my last alignment about a month ago and they couldnt get the Toe to within the specified range... I took it to a nismo certified dealer they do a lot of track setups and etc for us So Cal guys from the Zilvia threads, so im not doubting their abilty, but my toe in the rear is @ 2.43 Actual ~ 1.89 Before ~ Spec Range is only .25* .65* Ne1 know what could b killing my tow so horribly?
thats a lot of toe... and there is a TON of adjustment in our cars... I am very surprised they couldn't get it in spec...
12-17-08, 05:22 PM
#20
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hey guys wondering if someone could help
i just did my lca bushings with oem bushings
i took the car in for an alignment
and these are the final before and after numbers
they did it twice before i can get the steering straight
car is stock with 225/55/16 tires and stock springs and kyb gr2 shocks
camber
front left 0.2
front right 0.6
caster
front left 2.4
front right 2.6
toe
left 0.07
right 0.04
SAI
left 8.3
right 8.3
included angle
right 8.5
left 8.9
REAR
camber
left
-1.5
right
-1.1
toe
left
right
013
left
0.11
i was under the impression that both wheels should have the same comber caster and toe ( front and rear ) every time they did it the numbers are different , so i am wondering why this is they checked ball joint bushings and tie rod ends and all checked out fine , what would cause the variation and do i have to change the upper control arm as well ( would it cause this ) also they told me one of my sway bar endlinks are shot , and also while i am driving the car feels bouncy like it is an aftershock or somehting the whole car seems to bounce after going over an uneven road , PLEEASE HELP
i just did my lca bushings with oem bushings
i took the car in for an alignment
and these are the final before and after numbers
they did it twice before i can get the steering straight
car is stock with 225/55/16 tires and stock springs and kyb gr2 shocks
camber
front left 0.2
front right 0.6
caster
front left 2.4
front right 2.6
toe
left 0.07
right 0.04
SAI
left 8.3
right 8.3
included angle
right 8.5
left 8.9
REAR
camber
left
-1.5
right
-1.1
toe
left
right
013
left
0.11
i was under the impression that both wheels should have the same comber caster and toe ( front and rear ) every time they did it the numbers are different , so i am wondering why this is they checked ball joint bushings and tie rod ends and all checked out fine , what would cause the variation and do i have to change the upper control arm as well ( would it cause this ) also they told me one of my sway bar endlinks are shot , and also while i am driving the car feels bouncy like it is an aftershock or somehting the whole car seems to bounce after going over an uneven road , PLEEASE HELP
12-17-08, 05:54 PM
#21
front and rear numbers on camber, caster, and toe will most likely never all be same. you want to run a bit more camber in the front then rear. the toe i leave at 0 front and rear. i try to get as much caster as i can. well relatively a lot. about 5* front and a bit more then stock in the rear. this helps with stability.
right now im running 4.5* of camber in the rear. this is because my control arm bushings are shot and ceased. im in the process of replacing them right now. even with that much camber i drove on the street for about 2 months, and a lot, as well as a whole drift day. i took off the tires two weeks ago and they were starting to show nylon cords.
a one time alignment is 75 bucks. i paid 175 for a 3 year plan that is also transferable to new vehicle. the guy that does my alignments use to work for AMS and does a lot of the local track and drift cars.
right now im running 4.5* of camber in the rear. this is because my control arm bushings are shot and ceased. im in the process of replacing them right now. even with that much camber i drove on the street for about 2 months, and a lot, as well as a whole drift day. i took off the tires two weeks ago and they were starting to show nylon cords.
a one time alignment is 75 bucks. i paid 175 for a 3 year plan that is also transferable to new vehicle. the guy that does my alignments use to work for AMS and does a lot of the local track and drift cars.
12-17-08, 06:44 PM
#22
i was under the impression that both wheels should have the same comber caster and toe ( front and rear ) every time they did it the numbers are different , so i am wondering why this is they checked ball joint bushings and tie rod ends and all checked out fine , what would cause the variation and do i have to change the upper control arm as well ( would it cause this ) also they told me one of my sway bar endlinks are shot , and also while i am driving the car feels bouncy like it is an aftershock or somehting the whole car seems to bounce after going over an uneven road , PLEEASE HELP
variation in camber/caster side to side is normal, a little, at least... Your numbers look fairly good, except the front camber should be more 0 or negative, assuming those numbers are positive... toe is next to impossible to get perfectly even on both sides without some manipulation...
think I might try a different alignment guy though really... that difference in camber side to side in the rear is more than I'd like to see, although, on a machine, it would be considered "good"
just because the numbers are within manufacturers tolerances doesn't necessarily make them good... toe is in hundredths of a degree and caster/camber is in tenths typically...
12-18-08, 10:30 AM
#24
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this alignment was done at a toyota dealership with their laser machines , my questions is i have done three alignments in the past 3 days and everytime the all the readings are different ? is it the machine or my car
12-18-08, 11:15 AM
#25
The machines are pretty damn accurate, but they are only as good as the technician using them...
12-18-08, 08:44 PM
#28
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i think i have figured out the problem of the different readings , i went to my mechanic to have him replace the caliper and also asked him to check if the lca is tightened to spec , what to do u know they were torqued to 90lbs , so my thinking is that it is suppose to be tightened to 166 lbs ,is it possible that the camber bolts keep moving while i am driving and therefore throwing the alignment readings all overe the place , after i tightened the bolts to 166 the car even drives better and no more popping noise while i am reversing , i specifiaclly told the toyota tech to make sure that the camber bolts were torqued to spec , please advise
12-18-08, 11:01 PM
#29
damn, those specs are shot. did he at least try to explain what went bad as to why he couldnt get the alignment straight. that left side was way off, i dont know wtf that guy was doing.
12-19-08, 06:13 AM
#30
i think i have figured out the problem of the different readings , i went to my mechanic to have him replace the caliper and also asked him to check if the lca is tightened to spec , what to do u know they were torqued to 90lbs , so my thinking is that it is suppose to be tightened to 166 lbs ,is it possible that the camber bolts keep moving while i am driving and therefore throwing the alignment readings all overe the place , after i tightened the bolts to 166 the car even drives better and no more popping noise while i am reversing , i specifiaclly told the toyota tech to make sure that the camber bolts were torqued to spec , please advise
what was my first suggestion? find a different alignment guy???
a good alignment tech should find any potential issues prior to doing an alignment - loose ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, etc, and then get it more even side to side, and not have it move around while you are driving...