DIY...Lower Your ISx50
#123
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: WI
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The 19mm bolt that holds the strut to the LCA is not loosening at all, I tried more leverage, adjusting the lower arm with jack and nothing worked. Any recommendations for loosening this bolt? I'm debating just cutting it and replacing, has anyone ran into this same problem?
#124
The 19mm bolt that holds the strut to the LCA is not loosening at all, I tried more leverage, adjusting the lower arm with jack and nothing worked. Any recommendations for loosening this bolt? I'm debating just cutting it and replacing, has anyone ran into this same problem?
I used my impact gun to loosen the bolt.
#127
Pit Crew
iTrader: (1)
R&Rd the factory shocks today with a set of nearly new factory shocks. This DIY was very handy. I also used the F Sport spring install instructions.
The bushing torque was easy using a second jack. My primary jack stayed under the jack points in the middle of the car. The jack stands were set up under the side jack points. I did not lower the car onto the jack stands completely, just took some stress off the jack. I did the front first rear last.
In front I used rhino ramps to set bushings and torque the bolts. Turning the front wheels to the L & R while on the ramps gave me room to work.
In the rear I used the second jack to bring the axle near level to remove and install the outter most bolt. Without bringing the axle near level forget removing and installing that bolt. The holes will not line up.
At 87k the only shock that wasnt leaking is driver front. The pass front had a little oil on the shaft heh heh heh and the rear shafts were heh heh wet all the way down the shock bodies.
The bushing torque was easy using a second jack. My primary jack stayed under the jack points in the middle of the car. The jack stands were set up under the side jack points. I did not lower the car onto the jack stands completely, just took some stress off the jack. I did the front first rear last.
In front I used rhino ramps to set bushings and torque the bolts. Turning the front wheels to the L & R while on the ramps gave me room to work.
In the rear I used the second jack to bring the axle near level to remove and install the outter most bolt. Without bringing the axle near level forget removing and installing that bolt. The holes will not line up.
At 87k the only shock that wasnt leaking is driver front. The pass front had a little oil on the shaft heh heh heh and the rear shafts were heh heh wet all the way down the shock bodies.
#128
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: AL
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Installed F-Sport springs (revised version) on my '11 IS350 two nights ago. Only took about 6 hours with handtools and breaks. This DIY was a great help. I didn't touch the AFS arm on the left rear wheel but when I started it up I got the AFS warning. Went under the car with a flashlight and sure enough the arm was reversed. Easy 10 minute fix thanks to another thread in this forum.
Initial impressions are that it is firm without being harsh. It feels more planted and it's not a huge departure from the stock ride. I previously drove a BMW 3-series with sport suspension and run-flat tires. It is nowhere near as harsh as that was on the bumpy roads around here. I am happy with the drop and so far no noises or other problems.
Initial impressions are that it is firm without being harsh. It feels more planted and it's not a huge departure from the stock ride. I previously drove a BMW 3-series with sport suspension and run-flat tires. It is nowhere near as harsh as that was on the bumpy roads around here. I am happy with the drop and so far no noises or other problems.
#129
it took me 4.5 hours today to lower my is250 f sport on tiens springs, did the front first, rear last. as i took out the rear and went to compress the springs to put the top back on and into the car, the harbor frieght spring compressor tool broke on me, now i was screwed..i put the top half of the shock on the car and took the shock n springs and stuff it under the lca and jacked it up to compress it and bilt everything up, did alot better then using the spring compressor.
there was no need for spring compressor to take the stock springs out. none of them shot out or seems to be under presssure, it barely moved 1mm when i used an impact gun to shoot it like i do with my hondas.
problem is now i got that check ur headlight flashing on my dash
there was no need for spring compressor to take the stock springs out. none of them shot out or seems to be under presssure, it barely moved 1mm when i used an impact gun to shoot it like i do with my hondas.
problem is now i got that check ur headlight flashing on my dash
#130
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (5)
it took me 4.5 hours today to lower my is250 f sport on tiens springs, did the front first, rear last. as i took out the rear and went to compress the springs to put the top back on and into the car, the harbor frieght spring compressor tool broke on me, now i was screwed..i put the top half of the shock on the car and took the shock n springs and stuff it under the lca and jacked it up to compress it and bilt everything up, did alot better then using the spring compressor.
there was no need for spring compressor to take the stock springs out. none of them shot out or seems to be under presssure, it barely moved 1mm when i used an impact gun to shoot it like i do with my hondas.
problem is now i got that check ur headlight flashing on my dash
there was no need for spring compressor to take the stock springs out. none of them shot out or seems to be under presssure, it barely moved 1mm when i used an impact gun to shoot it like i do with my hondas.
problem is now i got that check ur headlight flashing on my dash
#132
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (4)
Having issues, would be grateful if someone can provide some insight.
While trying to reinstall the strut in the rear, the LCA and spindle won't line up. It took lots of prying and 2-3 people to finally get it to work. Im worried that this will happen on the other side also, so just reverted everything back to stock for now (only did 1 corner anyways).
Does anyone have any tips on lining up the LCA and spindle when reinstalling? Is it because i only jacked up one side of the car? Maybe i should both both rear wheels in the air...
Thanks in advance
While trying to reinstall the strut in the rear, the LCA and spindle won't line up. It took lots of prying and 2-3 people to finally get it to work. Im worried that this will happen on the other side also, so just reverted everything back to stock for now (only did 1 corner anyways).
Does anyone have any tips on lining up the LCA and spindle when reinstalling? Is it because i only jacked up one side of the car? Maybe i should both both rear wheels in the air...
Thanks in advance
#133
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: europe
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Having issues, would be grateful if someone can provide some insight.
While trying to reinstall the strut in the rear, the LCA and spindle won't line up. It took lots of prying and 2-3 people to finally get it to work. Im worried that this will happen on the other side also, so just reverted everything back to stock for now (only did 1 corner anyways).
Does anyone have any tips on lining up the LCA and spindle when reinstalling? Is it because i only jacked up one side of the car? Maybe i should both both rear wheels in the air...
Thanks in advance
While trying to reinstall the strut in the rear, the LCA and spindle won't line up. It took lots of prying and 2-3 people to finally get it to work. Im worried that this will happen on the other side also, so just reverted everything back to stock for now (only did 1 corner anyways).
Does anyone have any tips on lining up the LCA and spindle when reinstalling? Is it because i only jacked up one side of the car? Maybe i should both both rear wheels in the air...
Thanks in advance
http://is.sewellparts.com/pdf/PTR0753080.pdf
and tape everything and set markings on the tape, nothing can go wrong then
or put the springcompressor back on its easier to move some parts without pressure from the spring
i start tommorow with the eibach prokit it takes me 8hrs i think
its the first time to do this in my life,we see
Last edited by tonnetje; 01-20-13 at 11:43 AM.
#134
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: europe
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greetz
13/1/2013
its done, lowered 30mm-3cm front and rear its the european eibach prokit!
its a lot of work and you need some help sometimes from others
i did it in 10hrs very slow but i take my time for it
happy i did it by myself
never to old to learn
thanks for all the information on this forum
without this DIY tread i never started this project
the last picture is my fork for removing the liner plugs in the trunk without hassle
greetz from overseas
13/1/2013
its done, lowered 30mm-3cm front and rear its the european eibach prokit!
its a lot of work and you need some help sometimes from others
i did it in 10hrs very slow but i take my time for it
happy i did it by myself
never to old to learn
thanks for all the information on this forum
without this DIY tread i never started this project
the last picture is my fork for removing the liner plugs in the trunk without hassle
greetz from overseas
Last edited by tonnetje; 01-20-13 at 11:42 AM.