HELP: I had a bit of a scare at 90mph
08-09-07, 11:07 AM
#1
HELP: I had a bit of a scare at 90mph
so was driving to school and i had been driving it real hard to get there cause i was running pretty late and if i didnt get there i would have to wait like 2hours to get a parking spot and then be late to work and maybe fired, so i had been hammering on the brakes the whole way and im going down a street that ends in a three-way stop and im going 90 and i hit the brakes hard and i barely slow to 85 and the stop is coming up fast with a big fence right in my path, i downshifted to second and yanked the e-brake while stomping on the brakes, i cut the corner and got sideways, it was pretty scary and i dont ever want to have it happen again. the brakes turned to mush from all the hard driving and i want to know what i can do to keep this from happening again. i will maybe get big brakes later down the road when i have more money but for now i need a cost-effective solution, do you have any ideas.(i was thinking steel braided lines, but i dont know). if you could give me ideas and general cost of what you are suggesting
BTWL: i have new brake pads and my rotor were just reground, all this was about 2k miles ago
BTWL: i have new brake pads and my rotor were just reground, all this was about 2k miles ago
08-09-07, 12:05 PM
#2
Stainless steel brake lines will help the pedal pressure be more linear with braking power, but with either SS brake lines or OEM lines, when the pedal is fully depressed, the braking should be similarly effective. I would tend to think your issue is not with the brake lines themselves.
Depending on the temperature outside and the number of hard stops you had been making, your brake fuild may actually have begun to boil. Bleeding out the brake system with some synthetic braking fluid with a higher boiling point may help your cause.
Ultimately, I would blame the brake pads more than the brake lines in thie case. A nice project Mu pad from endless should both increase cold and hot braking performance while virually eliminating fade.
08-09-07, 12:12 PM
#3
ok, i think i'll try the synthetic brake fluid, i might get the ss brake lines just because they arent that expensive so why not, i just feel like i need to do something so that this doesnt happen again after hard drving because that is when i need my brakes the most
08-09-07, 03:27 PM
#4
Not for nothing, but the pads themselves should be addressed first in terms of the actual question.
Next to that, Driving 90 in a residential area is just F'n dumb, job loss potential or not. You nearly got into a ridiculous accident, which being as you'd have gone through a fence into unknown territory could have been life threatening. At the very least your car would be GONE, period. And your life could have been gone as well - or at the very least you'd be personally set back thousands upon thousands of dollars in enforced hospital bills and being laid up for who knows how long while you heal AND paying for the damage to the public and/or private property you destroyed in said accident....... all before having to find a NEW job to buy a NEW car....
Next to that, Driving 90 in a residential area is just F'n dumb, job loss potential or not. You nearly got into a ridiculous accident, which being as you'd have gone through a fence into unknown territory could have been life threatening. At the very least your car would be GONE, period. And your life could have been gone as well - or at the very least you'd be personally set back thousands upon thousands of dollars in enforced hospital bills and being laid up for who knows how long while you heal AND paying for the damage to the public and/or private property you destroyed in said accident....... all before having to find a NEW job to buy a NEW car....
Last edited by JspecSC3; 08-09-07 at 06:34 PM. Reason: No we wont!
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NYblack350 (05-23-23)
08-09-07, 03:37 PM
#5
Not for nothing, but the pads themselves should be addressed first in terms of the actual question.
Next to that, Driving 90 in a residential area is just F'n dumb, job loss potential or not. You nearly got into a ridiculous accident, which being as you'd have gone through a fence into unknown territory could have been life threatening. At the very least your car would be GONE, period. And your life could have been gone as well - or at the very least you'd be personally set back thousands upon thousands of dollars in enforced hospital bills and being laid up for who knows how long while you heal AND paying for the damage to the public and/or private property you destroyed in said accident....... all before having to find a NEW job to buy a NEW car....
And yes, you can call me dad if you want
;P
Next to that, Driving 90 in a residential area is just F'n dumb, job loss potential or not. You nearly got into a ridiculous accident, which being as you'd have gone through a fence into unknown territory could have been life threatening. At the very least your car would be GONE, period. And your life could have been gone as well - or at the very least you'd be personally set back thousands upon thousands of dollars in enforced hospital bills and being laid up for who knows how long while you heal AND paying for the damage to the public and/or private property you destroyed in said accident....... all before having to find a NEW job to buy a NEW car....
And yes, you can call me dad if you want
;P
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NYblack350 (05-23-23)
08-09-07, 05:24 PM
#6
An easy solution for next time is...don't be late. Although if you want a better performing pad under stress, like they have said above, its all within the brake pad. The higher end pads are expensive because they have a higher threshold for heat. Good brake pads do not necessarily make you stop faster, but have less brake fade under stress.
Although if you want a better performing pad under stress, like they have said above, its all within the brake pad. The higher end pads are expensive because they have a higher threshold for heat. Good brake pads do not necessarily make you stop faster, but have less brake fade under stress.
08-09-07, 06:10 PM
#7
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brake fade
The stock oem Toy pads are superior in that they don't dust, need to be heated up and resist fade. And they last. You can get better perf in almost any catagory of perf but their mix is darn good. You wouldn't have had the problem if you had stock pads.
You will have to have the rotors turned or you won't get max perf from anything you install and you should throw the stuff you have away.
Stainles is BS. Waste of money. Hard pedel is from bleeding the brakes and that should be an annual event.
Syn fluid is a good bet and make sure the boiling point is way up there. I have seen spendy fluid that boiled at a lower temp than junk fluid. Buyer beware. I like good dot4 cause I bleed mine at least once a year.
Big brakes are the hot ticket and they will take twice as long to fade regardless. Get good rotors form Toy and yes the rotor is bigger. Avoid drilled rotors but sloted sheds water better. Mitsuguy pointed out that cheap rotors have poor metalurgy and don't have curved cooling fins. Cheapies have straight internal fins that don't cool as well.
Happy trails,
John
You will have to have the rotors turned or you won't get max perf from anything you install and you should throw the stuff you have away.
Stainles is BS. Waste of money. Hard pedel is from bleeding the brakes and that should be an annual event.
Syn fluid is a good bet and make sure the boiling point is way up there. I have seen spendy fluid that boiled at a lower temp than junk fluid. Buyer beware. I like good dot4 cause I bleed mine at least once a year.
Big brakes are the hot ticket and they will take twice as long to fade regardless. Get good rotors form Toy and yes the rotor is bigger. Avoid drilled rotors but sloted sheds water better. Mitsuguy pointed out that cheap rotors have poor metalurgy and don't have curved cooling fins. Cheapies have straight internal fins that don't cool as well.
Happy trails,
John
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08-09-07, 06:38 PM
#8
Sorry to hear about what happened there. I'd fully inspect the braking system. The synthetic fluid and brake pads that can take high temperature braking are a must. I hear you can also feel a noticeable different with stainless steel braided brake lines. Take it easy next time.
08-09-07, 06:57 PM
#9
Not for nothing, but the pads themselves should be addressed first in terms of the actual question.
Next to that, Driving 90 in a residential area is just F'n dumb, job loss potential or not. You nearly got into a ridiculous accident, which being as you'd have gone through a fence into unknown territory could have been life threatening. At the very least your car would be GONE, period. And your life could have been gone as well - or at the very least you'd be personally set back thousands upon thousands of dollars in enforced hospital bills and being laid up for who knows how long while you heal AND paying for the damage to the public and/or private property you destroyed in said accident....... all before having to find a NEW job to buy a NEW car....
Next to that, Driving 90 in a residential area is just F'n dumb, job loss potential or not. You nearly got into a ridiculous accident, which being as you'd have gone through a fence into unknown territory could have been life threatening. At the very least your car would be GONE, period. And your life could have been gone as well - or at the very least you'd be personally set back thousands upon thousands of dollars in enforced hospital bills and being laid up for who knows how long while you heal AND paying for the damage to the public and/or private property you destroyed in said accident....... all before having to find a NEW job to buy a NEW car....
who said it was in a residential neghborhood, it wasnt, and i do know what was on the other side of the fence, a golf course. but thanks for all the useful responses guys, i think that i will definitely investing a good breaking system sometime in the near future cause that was just plain scary. what do you guys think of the ebay slotted rotors that are for sale(should i spend my money on them or save up for bigger rotors and calipers)
Last edited by CCC-TT; 08-09-07 at 08:33 PM.
08-09-07, 07:35 PM
#10
For the price of the SS brake lines (that will not stop this from occuring again), you could replace the front pads with the Endless or Hawk pads and never have to worry about this happening again.
The front pads are most important since they handle a significant majority of the braking duties. Obviously, replacing all four pads would be preferred. But, if you are on any kind of a budget, the front pad replacement would be the way to fix the problem and stay under $150.
08-09-07, 09:22 PM
#12
I have SC400 rear brake calipers with brand new OEM pads and D/S rotors sitting in my garage (12.1" diameter as compared to your SC300 11.4" rotors). I would pawn this rear brake set up off to you for $90. PM me if you are interested.
As for pads, I would get some nice Hawk pads. Horsepowerfreaks.com sells a front set of their "Performance Street" pads for $65. They are a much better value than the $200 Endless pads.
08-09-07, 09:45 PM
#13
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BTW, slotted rotors are a waste. They have reduced surface area and cannot easily be resurfaced. You'll be doing yourself a favor by getting slotted rotors.
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