Replacing front rotors ... how easy is it?
#4
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http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/fbpad.html
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/bleeding.html
LS400 tutorials, but it applies to the GS also. Bleed the brakes after you put in the new pads.
Also while you're bleeding the brakes, put the key into the "ON" (without starting the engine) position.
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/bleeding.html
LS400 tutorials, but it applies to the GS also. Bleed the brakes after you put in the new pads.
Also while you're bleeding the brakes, put the key into the "ON" (without starting the engine) position.
#5
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http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/fbpad.html
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/bleeding.html
LS400 tutorials, but it applies to the GS also. Bleed the brakes after you put in the new pads.
Also while you're bleeding the brakes, put the key into the "ON" (without starting the engine) position.
http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/bleeding.html
LS400 tutorials, but it applies to the GS also. Bleed the brakes after you put in the new pads.
Also while you're bleeding the brakes, put the key into the "ON" (without starting the engine) position.
Also curious, what is the reasoning for having the key in the "ON" position?
Thanks
#6
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The ABS valve needs to open up otherwise fluid wont come out as much. Either that, or you can shell out $6000 for a Lexus scanner ![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The procedures are the same.
An advice if you're going to replace the pads and bleed the brakes. When you Push in the pistons on the caliper, open up the bleeder bolt so fluid can come out. It'll be easier to push in the pistons. You're going to bleed the brakes afterwards anyways so no worries about inducing air into the system.
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The procedures are the same.
An advice if you're going to replace the pads and bleed the brakes. When you Push in the pistons on the caliper, open up the bleeder bolt so fluid can come out. It'll be easier to push in the pistons. You're going to bleed the brakes afterwards anyways so no worries about inducing air into the system.
Last edited by GSteg; 10-24-07 at 03:50 PM.
#7
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A 1/2" drive ratchet alone may not be enough. Either purchase a real breaker bar, or head to Home Depot and purchase a $2 piece of PVC pipe. Cut it into an 18" section and slip it over your ratchet. That should give you enough leverage to remove the bolt...usually.
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#8
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#9
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Jeff, that's because the ABS motor is actually attached to our master brake cylinder. Thats why it looks so beefy because it's one whole unit. Another reason why it also cost $1800 to fix if either the MC or the ABS actuator breaks ![Frown](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Not sure why we have 1 unit instead of 2 separate units like most other Lexus.
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Not sure why we have 1 unit instead of 2 separate units like most other Lexus.
#10
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New type= braking power still at 100% if engine stalls out or engine is off.
Old type= brakes lose assist after engine stalls or is off.
Try it, just roll down a hill or driveway in neutral with key in run position where gauges are lit, but have the engine off. The brakes will work as strong as they would be if the engine was running.
But where's the ABS bleeder valve for the GS? Or was that for another car?7
#12
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Actaully what I meant was why do we have the ABS motor/actuator attached to our master cylinder as 1 unit, instead of 2 units like the LS430 where you can actually replace the ABS actuator independent of the Master cylinder, and vice versa. If our master cylinder breaks, its a $1500 fix. If the LS430's MC breaks, it's a $300 fix.
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sho89mtx
GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005)
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03-08-12 07:37 PM