JDKane527

iTrader: (10)

I'm thinking of going with the Brembo kit for the 250. Not sure as to whether or not I want to go cross drilled or slotted, but has anyone gotten these yet, and how do you like them?
Also, with the 18" wheels, how is the clearance?

Thanks

iSuxeL

iTrader: (21)

Regardless if anyone has these, theyre Brembo's! These are the best BBK hands down, they produce brakes for many car manufacturer's.

trinityhk

iTrader: (1)

I have brembos on my 350 with drilled rotors. I was told to stay away from slotted rotors cuz i guess they really eat up the brake pad. As for wheel clearance, they will not clear the stock 18'' wheels. The brembos cost a pretty penny just as a lil FYI.

Just outta curiousity....why would you put a BBK on a 250? Im not hating or flaming, please dont think I am, im just curious.

cspec

I don't think they are the "best". There are tons of manufacturers that are much better in quality.

nabbun

actually, i'd rather go with slotted or plain over drilled.

unless you're going for more "show"

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, less mass (drilled) in your rotors is less stopping power, exactly the opposite of what you want in your brakes.

iSuxeL

iTrader: (21)

Really?? I think they are minus Endless LOL, those are just out of control. I would go with slotted and drilled if they have.

I would have to disagree with you, less mass doesnt mean less stopping power, what about CF brakes then? Light as hell but do they have less stopping power? No...I dont think so....

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

Changing what they're made out of entirely, then comparing mass, makes no sense.

Two rotors of the -same- material, one drilled (ie with less mass) and one solid, the solid is better, plain and simple.

Removing mass can actually -increase- temps slightly (which is bad) they can create stress risers leading to cracks (which is bad), and generally make a mess of brake pads (which is bad).

The only two cases where drilled isn't a bad idea are these:

You're using brake pads from the 1930s.

Your rotors are so insanely huge that they need drilling for weight reduction (ie high performance motorcycle rotors)


If cross drilled actually worked better in 99% of applications don't you think NASCAR or F1 would use em?


(note much of the above shameless stolen from people much smarter about brakes than I am, I just know enough to listen to em)

blake0387

iTrader: (1)

I think what we're actually getting at here is the overall surface area of the rotor. I would imagine that surface area has a greater effect on stopping power than mass.

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

No, it doesn't.

The mass of the rotor absorbs the heat. Removing mass means it can take less heat.

The rotor absorbs the heat generated by the pad rubbing against the rotor face, then disappates it to the surrounding air. Less mass means less heat it can absorb before it stops working properly.


(again, this is discussing two rotors of the same material... obviously different material has different thermal properties... but more mass is more ability to absorb heat.)

Now, more surface area increases the ability to -get rid- of the heat after the stop, which is a good idea, but it's the mass (or lack thereof with drilled) that affects how much it can absorb in the first place before there's problems.

blake0387

iTrader: (1)

It seems to me that you're talking about fade. I agree a larger rotor is more resistant to fade because of its increased heat capacity, but what I was referring to was pure stopping power.

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

But the larger rotor doesn't do anything for that (in terms of surface area).

The rotor and pad are only in contact (as far as large amounts of force being applied) where the caliper is forcing them together, not across the entire surface of the rotor.

Larger rotors stop better because they can absorb (and then disapate) more heat.

Once a cars brakes are under control (thermally) then continuing to increase the size (or surface area) of the rotor does nothing at all but add unsprung weight.

vistorQ

lets stop bantering and see some brakes. plus if brembo thaught that cross drilled or slotted were not as good as smotth face then they would offer them on ther turismo kit... and they don't. the main reason for the drilled is to cut down on wieght and to create "cross " ventilation. i .e. cooler brakes stop better.

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

Except they don't do that.

Brembo sells drilled because people who don't understand brakes think it's a good idea, plain and simple.

People who race cars for a living (ie Nascar F1, etc) avoid drilled rotors like the plague they are.

They're nice for show, they suck for stopping.

Slotted -can- have some benefits in some race applications though (and they're used exactly that way) but for most street applications a good solid rotor is the best way to go, with slotted being an ok compromise if the car is gonna see track action

Here's a much longer thread with a bunch of knowledgable folks who reached the same conclusions by about halfway through the thread (see especially page 3 or 4)

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ht=pulp&page=3

Here's some great quotes included there-

Wilwood: "Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity."

Power Slot: "At one time the conventional wisdom in racing circles was to cross-drill brake rotors to aid cooling and eliminate the gas emitted by brake pads. However, today's elite teams in open wheel, Indy and Trans Am racing are moving away from crack prone, cross-drilled brake rotors in favor of rotors modified with a fatigue resistant slotting process

From Baer: "What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors? In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads...However, with today's race pad technology, 'outgassing' is no longer much of a concern...Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer's offerings."

Darrick Dong; Director of Motorsports at Performance Friction: "Anyone that
tells you that drilling makes the disc run cooler is smoking crack."

100plus

As I've seen from most people on CL say get slotted rotors. The brake pads will bite into the rotor. I'd go with slotted.