Swapping lowering springs for another, need spring compressor?
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: WA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Swapping lowering springs for another, need spring compressor?
My car came with H&R lowering springs, but I want to swap them out for Tanabe DF210s. Will I need a spring compressor in order to reassemble the struts? Thanks
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: WA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know what you mean! haha
But, like I said the car is on H&R springs right now and I just want to swap them with the DFs.
I never did the spring install so I don't know how much compression there is on the springs right now and if I'll need to compress the DFs for reinstallation (the hard part might be getting the bolt back on the piston rod). According to the posts above, I'll still need a spring compressor.
But, like I said the car is on H&R springs right now and I just want to swap them with the DFs.
I never did the spring install so I don't know how much compression there is on the springs right now and if I'll need to compress the DFs for reinstallation (the hard part might be getting the bolt back on the piston rod). According to the posts above, I'll still need a spring compressor.
Trending Topics
#8
Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: WA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mistakenly followed your advice...
For clarification:
For removing the H&R springs, no compressor needed. It will just pop a little when removing the piston rod bolt, but nothing catastrophic.
However, you DO NEED the compressor for INSTALLING the DF210s. I couldn't get the spring caps/hats(not sure the proper term) bolted back on, unless I compress the DF210s. I tried to do it the "ghetto" way and use the car's weight to compress the spring in order to get the piston rod bolt back on, but the DF210s have a stiffer spring rate.
Gonna go rent a spring compressor in a little bit
For clarification:
For removing the H&R springs, no compressor needed. It will just pop a little when removing the piston rod bolt, but nothing catastrophic.
However, you DO NEED the compressor for INSTALLING the DF210s. I couldn't get the spring caps/hats(not sure the proper term) bolted back on, unless I compress the DF210s. I tried to do it the "ghetto" way and use the car's weight to compress the spring in order to get the piston rod bolt back on, but the DF210s have a stiffer spring rate.
Gonna go rent a spring compressor in a little bit
#12
Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: WA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You're right, the H&Rs ride pretty good. The H&Rs lower 1.4"f 1.3"r and the DFs are 1.8"f 1.3"r. I guess I wanted the extra .4" drop in the front ...I guess to even out the wheel gap compared to the rear. Coilovers would have been a better option though, but we'll see how I like the drop.
Here's a pic of the front with the H&Rs, 2 finger gap (pic doesn't have a good angle). I don't have a picture of it with the DFs, but it's 1 finger gap now. BTW, those are brand new 20" wheels. 20x8.5 +35f and 20x10 +40r. I'll post a pic of the entire car once I get the chance.
Last edited by tnbigdawg; 01-25-08 at 02:10 AM.
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: WA
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll let you know how they ride compared to the H&Rs once I get a chance to test drive. I still have the rears to do, and I have to roll at least the front fenders.
BTW, the pic is deceiving. The car's paint isn't really that great (swirls, scratches, chips, etc...) because of neglect from prior owners, but I still keep it clean.