Gernby

iTrader: (1)

I payed for my low dust pads too simply because I don't like other people working on my cars.

05LSV

I would be so pissed if they washed my car when I asked them not to. And for them to basically lie to you (because that's what they did) about the TSIB is just ridiculous.

This is just one more reason why I ended up buying my car from Sewell in Dallas even though the Houston area dealers are much closer. They sucked on pricing and they obviously suck in the service area too.

iialcii

iTrader: (3)

BS. but the service advisor told me to wait till 10k or 15k so i get some free brakes but i think ill get them done at 10

BrianJ

Very well put.

weesped

iTrader: (8)

yup my guy said the same thing. he just told me if we waited too long and the pads got completely worn they wouldnt cover it. 10k is a safe spot

TonySwank

I got in touch with my service rep today and he said there was confusion between the brake squealing TSB and the brake dust TSB. Apparently the squealing is only for the 2006 models?

Anyway, they said I can bring it in when I get a chance and they will put the new pads on and buff out the swirl marks. Hopefully they can get most of them out.

BrianJ

When the dealer replaced the pad, do they resurface the rotors?

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

Some dealers will replace the rotors when they perform the TSIB (free of charge), but some others will resurface them. I suggest requesting that they do NOT resurface them. It would be better to keep your old, slightly grooved rotors than resurface them.

RTIS250

iTrader: (9)

As part of the TSIB, there is no resurfacing or replacement of rotors. Its simply a "pad-slap" TSIB. If the rotors are really bad, then we resurface them, but ive never heard of a dealer replacing rotors under warranty for the TSIB, thats a good way to get your warranty stuff kicked back on the dealer and not paid for.

BrianJ

I disagree. Whenever a new pad is used, the rotor should be clean so that the material from the new pads could be 'bedded' in.

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

I agree that new pads can bed in quicker if you resurface the rotors, but that doesn't mean you should do it. By resurfacing, you are throwing away valuable rotor material. On top of that, the rotor's surface will be very abrasive, which will use up an excessive amount of new pad material during the bedding process. By the time the brakes are fully bedded, you've wasted pad material and rotor material. I would much rather save the material, and just take a little more time and care bedding them in.

350PsDMeuP

iTrader: (1)

Hye bro, i have a 350 im in houston also, i got to lexus of clearlake, see phil hell take care of you, we need to link up sometime and cruise the wicked h!

carchitect

iTrader: (1)

Honestly, any rotor that is larger than 12" in diameter should always be resurfaced with every pad change. These rotors develop variances in thickness and the edge wear is most pronounced since the thickness here is thinner. It is partially from the circumference speed being the fastest towards the edge and the braking force also being most significant. Installing new pads on an untrue rotor will give you a mush peadl feel and poor grip from lack of pad surface contact. It could take you several thousand miles until the pad seats in and the rotor now has a higher chance of damage or warpage from uneven friction and temperature difference. The abrasiveness of the rotors wont make a difference to the pads. Its like comparing 80 grit sand paper to 600 grit. The 80 grit won't care if your touching it to 600 grit or a polished surface. It will leave 80 grit marks on it and won't chance its wear characteristics.

I honestly don't understand why everyone is so jung-ho about these low-mu pads. I've still got my high-mu high brake dust pads and absolutely love them. The braking is grabby and I love it. I've installed low-mu pads and resurfaced rotors during the replacement on a few client's carsand I've noticed a signficantly increased pedal tension during braking. It almost feels like the brake booster isn't working 100%. I understand the pads will make wear levels to a minimum on the rotors but I'm not too worried about them. The way I'm driving this vehicle I should get about 25K out of my high-mu pads and I'll resurface the rotors then. The next go around the rotors will probably be too thin and I'll replace them. I don't mind having a set of rotors last me 50K miles. This is a performance vehicle with 4-pot calipers and 13"+ rotors. Brakes are generally a wear and tear item and most manufacturers performance models go thru them rapidly. Its a price to pay for with a performance vehicle.

-Joe

350PsDMeuP

iTrader: (1)

btw i had mine put in at 20k with no problem, i think the dealer is crappin u, try somewhere else, with all the construction, dirt, debris, and confusion on i-10 im surprised you even attempt to go there.

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

I've gone through lots of rotors, and even more pads while autocrossing and tracking my cars over the past 13 years. For the first few years, I was very **** about grooves on my rotors, so I made sure I resurfaced between pad sets. Once I wised up, I quit resurfacing them, and found that my rotors and pads lasted longer. I was even able to swap street pads and race pads back and forth for track weekends on the same rotors without any problems at all.

The issue with large rotors seems mathematically backwards. Larger rotors have a smaller speed difference across the contact area.