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Lower Control Arm DIY

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Old 02-26-12, 12:31 PM
  #76  
Gr1nn3r86
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Info looks great but I was wondering if the left LCA is bad should I do the right side as well even though it seems fine?
Old 02-28-12, 07:29 PM
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I can't seem to get my passenger Rear LCA Bolt out. Any tips to remove it?
Old 02-28-12, 07:32 PM
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TechGreek
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I don't think anyone has mentioned this about the bolts. If there's a load on the arm at all in any direction they won't be easy to get out. If you get the arm hole where the bolts aren't under pressure you can usually pop them out with one punch of a 3/8 extension and a hammer. Same thing with them going back in...if there's any major resistance in removing them usually it's because they aren't centered with the hole.
Old 02-28-12, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by TechGreek
I don't think anyone has mentioned this about the bolts. If there's a load on the arm at all in any direction they won't be easy to get out. If you get the arm hole where the bolts aren't under pressure you can usually pop them out with one punch of a 3/8 extension and a hammer. Same thing with them going back in...if there's any major resistance in removing them usually it's because they aren't centered with the hole.
Ok that would make sense. We removed the first one, up front, and now the rear won't come out. Guess that means we need to put that bolt back in and jack up the LCA a bit? I will give that a try right now.
Old 02-28-12, 07:47 PM
  #80  
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Honestly, after popping mine in and out a few times (don't ask) I've found the best way to manuver them around would be with a big *** pry bar taped up and a rubber mallet.

As long as the LCA is dead center in the "tabs" (or the mount points) - BOTH points, front and back- you'll be able to move it around relatively easy but the moment you apply movement in an unequal fashion is when it becomes a huge PITA to move them in/out/up/down - remember to pull like you're pulling from the dead center of the LCA looking at it from the rotor's point of view.
Old 02-29-12, 06:13 PM
  #81  
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So after everything, we still weren't able to get it out. I think we messed up by taking the front LCA bolt out. Gosh dang my overzealousness. Tried to go too quick and was thinking straight. But my car has been down for almost a month.
Old 03-02-12, 08:54 AM
  #82  
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Put the arm back in both tabs, remove the bolts, then pull equally on both sides of the LCA (or wiggle back and fourth) - never remove one side of the arm, then the other...I tried to fight it one time removing it by doing that, and it didn't work.
Old 03-05-12, 09:31 PM
  #83  
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any tips for removing the rear bolt on the LCA when its seized up like no bodies buiness, so far i have manage to cut one side of the bolt but the other i can make a scratch with the saw as the sleeve is in the way and what ever it is made of that ish is super tough and is destroying every blade i used...so im open to ideas havent tried a torch yet
Old 03-06-12, 07:35 AM
  #84  
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I'm guessing everyone's bolts that get seized up are either rusted in up north or the arm is being improperly taken out.

Can you take a picture hovsc400? I need to see what you're doing.
Old 03-06-12, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by TechGreek
I'm guessing everyone's bolts that get seized up are either rusted in up north or the arm is being improperly taken out.

Can you take a picture hovsc400? I need to see what you're doing.
I still can't get mine out, but I think my front subframe is bent :/
Old 03-11-12, 12:35 AM
  #86  
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AttemPted it today but only got one lca out. The rear bolt is basically seized in there with the metal tube that is in the center of the pushing. I tortched it and found out so i took off the cross member. My engine is out so its no big deal, but i hope i can get it out tomorrow.
Old 03-11-12, 10:46 AM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by soarer13oy
AttemPted it today but only got one lca out. The rear bolt is basically seized in there with the metal tube that is in the center of the pushing. I tortched it and found out so i took off the cross member. My engine is out so its no big deal, but i hope i can get it out tomorrow.
This is an option for you guys that keep getting seized bolts. You can remove the rear sub-frame if you can get the front bolt free and slid the arm out.

I'd suggest taking it to a machine shop and letting them cut it out.
Old 03-11-12, 11:17 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by TechGreek
This is an option for you guys that keep getting seized bolts. You can remove the rear sub-frame if you can get the front bolt free and slid the arm out.

I'd suggest taking it to a machine shop and letting them cut it out.
Thats exactly what i did. If i cant get it out today il have a machine shop take care of it.
Old 03-11-12, 01:28 PM
  #89  
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I'm going to be taking out the crossmember tomorrow to get out the rear bolt. Car has been down for a month because of this
Old 03-11-12, 05:25 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by Toyboxx
I'm going to be taking out the crossmember tomorrow to get out the rear bolt. Car has been down for a month because of this
Take the cross member out and get a big hammer. Then hammer the hell out of it. Took me a few hits today to get the bolt out. GL!


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