Lower Control Arm DIY
03-13-12, 04:50 PM
#93
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after fighting with mine for a couple days heres what it took to get that stupid bolt out a sawzall, torch, and a couple metal cutting blades. I strongly recommend just cutting the bolt out and you cannot cut through the sleeve so you half to get in that gap between the sleeve and where the bolt enters through the subframe with a good blade it cuts like butter. If you got a bolt that is well seized up beating the **** out of it with a hammer will get you no where i spent a couple days doing it and all i got was the bolt to flatten out but it never budge.
so just cut it and slap a new one in there and be done with it.
so just cut it and slap a new one in there and be done with it.
03-14-12, 06:00 AM
#95
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i have to tackle mine today.
my rear bushing is completely busted so last time i tried to get it out, i couldn't get the bolt off.
i already got replacement LCA and just finished replacing it with new poly bushing yesterday.
that rear bushing sleeve has serrated ends so it bites into the frame once the arm is crooked and won't move, which i think is the problem.
where did you guys get the replacement bolt? lexus part number? or will i be able to find one at hardware store?
my rear bushing is completely busted so last time i tried to get it out, i couldn't get the bolt off.
i already got replacement LCA and just finished replacing it with new poly bushing yesterday.
that rear bushing sleeve has serrated ends so it bites into the frame once the arm is crooked and won't move, which i think is the problem.
where did you guys get the replacement bolt? lexus part number? or will i be able to find one at hardware store?
03-14-12, 06:03 AM
#96
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i have to tackle mine today.
my rear bushing is completely busted so last time i tried to get it out, i couldn't get the bolt off.
i already got replacement LCA and just finished replacing it with new poly bushing yesterday.
that rear bushing sleeve has serrated ends so it bites into the frame once the arm is crooked and won't move, which i think is the problem.
where did you guys get the replacement bolt? lexus part number? or will i be able to find one at hardware store?
my rear bushing is completely busted so last time i tried to get it out, i couldn't get the bolt off.
i already got replacement LCA and just finished replacing it with new poly bushing yesterday.
that rear bushing sleeve has serrated ends so it bites into the frame once the arm is crooked and won't move, which i think is the problem.
where did you guys get the replacement bolt? lexus part number? or will i be able to find one at hardware store?
The sleeve acts more as a separator bar to keep the arms from flexing and to allow the bushing to move forward to back inside of it (not by much, but if you have someone crank the wheel while looking, you'll see what I mean) which is why polyurethane makes such a huge difference, that's a huge amount of slop!
03-14-12, 10:23 AM
#98
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The end of the sleeve does bite into the frame, but as long as you torque to spec it shouldn't ever freeze up like you guys run into (unless you're in the North and have salt issues I suppose).
The sleeve acts more as a separator bar to keep the arms from flexing and to allow the bushing to move forward to back inside of it (not by much, but if you have someone crank the wheel while looking, you'll see what I mean) which is why polyurethane makes such a huge difference, that's a huge amount of slop!
The sleeve acts more as a separator bar to keep the arms from flexing and to allow the bushing to move forward to back inside of it (not by much, but if you have someone crank the wheel while looking, you'll see what I mean) which is why polyurethane makes such a huge difference, that's a huge amount of slop!
i hope i can get it out without cutting **** up.
i already busted the hex hed of the studded short linkage.
i can cut the nut off on that reletively easy but i don't know how you guys cut off the bolt to get the rear part out.
so anyone on the bolt info?
thanks.
03-14-12, 12:49 PM
#99
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Thats about the same size i used. I torched the living hell of it the night before. I dont know if that made a difference but thats what i did to get mines out.
03-14-12, 07:54 PM
#100
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torching helps alot to get that beast out i ordered my bolt from toyolex $15 and the stealership wanted $35 bucks for one bolt...part number for the camber bolt is 48190-4040 hope that helps
03-14-12, 10:20 PM
#101
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since ball joint boot is busted, i think i might cut off the control arm off and save the bolt.
thanks for the bolt part number.
03-18-12, 11:14 AM
#104
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finally got one side done.
i had to cut the bolt and saw that rear bushing sleeve was completely fused with the bolt from the rust.
it wouldn't have happened if the rear sleeve was made of aluminum like on the front.
i suppose if you heat up that sucker long enough you might get it off, but fused will take a while to get the entire sleeve heated while covered with rubber bushing.
i had to cut the bolt and saw that rear bushing sleeve was completely fused with the bolt from the rust.
it wouldn't have happened if the rear sleeve was made of aluminum like on the front.
i suppose if you heat up that sucker long enough you might get it off, but fused will take a while to get the entire sleeve heated while covered with rubber bushing.
03-23-12, 02:23 AM
#105
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I finished mines yesterday. I quick advice to anyone who will be replacing their bushings. After removing the sleeve and as much burnt rubber as you can, get a 2" wire brush for a drill or dremmel and clean the holes of the control arms. This made installing a piece of cake. I was able to basically push the bushings in with my hands/weight. You should also clean the sleeves and bolts for easier installation.