SorrGwa

iTrader: (1)

im just running a 5mm H&R hub centriced spacer on the front. the Project kics ones are 73mm, so u need a hub center ring. heres the thing, u can get the hub center ring to make the wheelspacer adapter dead center on ur stock hub, but whats gonna make sure the wheel itself is dead center on the wheelspacer adapter. THOUGH most aftermarket wheels are tapered design on the lugs, this will minimize the wheel from shifting off center, its not always perfect so u may get some wheel shake.

MPLexus301

iTrader: (3)

Looks great! Nice job, and great writeup

My mechanic is quoting me $300 to do this at a $60/hr labor rate. Considering that, I am wondering how long this took you?

Thanks buddy

EDIT: that is $300 to install 20MM fronts and 25MMs rear

Vic Nyce

iTrader: (2)

if you can change a spare tire, you can install the rear 25mms. the fronts are a little bit more work since you have to remove the calipers and rotors to swap out the stock lugs for the extended ones. $300 is way high though. a brake job [parts + labor] doesnt cost that much and your mechanic doesnt even have to buy parts. put the rears in yourself and bring the car to the shop to do the fronts. this is a 1 hour job tops.

[ant]

lol @ the wonderment people feel over bolt-on spacers. I'm from S13 scene and have been using spacers for years. i had 35mm frnt and 30mm rear (35's were custom) on my last car before i went big negative offset wheels..

all you need to do is get bolt on style spacers that are matched to your car so that the centre bore of the spacer slips perfectly over your hub centre. Then you want to make sure that the spacer has the same hub-centric ring on it as your hub did (that you just slipped the spacer on to). From here, you want to ensure your wheel centre bore is sitting on this hub lip. If its a stock wheel it should, but if its aftermarket it may have a larger centre bore than the hub ring, so you will need to buy slip-on rings (these come in poly plastic or metal) which then allow the wheel itself to sit snug on the spacer.

The issue you have with going too thin with bolt on style spacers is that there isnt much material for the studs to grab in to, hence why bolt on style ones cant really be thinner than 15mm. this is why they are push in stud type. Also, once you get quite thin in bolt on spacers, your original wheel studs can actually protrude through the spacer and push on the back on the wheel where it mounts to the spacer. this can be avoided if the wheel has 'pockets' between the bolt hole areas but not all wheels do.

All in all though, provided the spacer sits snug to the hub, and the wheel sits snug to the spacer (through a hubcentric ring or a ring+slip on adaptor) then you should not get any vibrations, whether the spacer is front or back or how thick it is (like i say i had 35mms up front)

seriously do it yourself though, dont pay $300! lol

Sceptre

iTrader: (2)

Does any know on the 25mm rear if the stock stud sticks out past the spacer? I have some wheels that don't have the "pockets". thanks