Emergency Brake Shoe Replacement?
05-31-08, 02:38 PM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Emergency Brake Shoe Replacement?
After doing some homework with the search feature on CL, I have yet to find a DIY thread on how to replace your worn out emergency brake shoes.
My SC300's emergency brake does not keep the car in place when the nose end of the car is on a higher gradient than the rear end. However, when the rear end is on a higher gradient than the nose, the emergency brake holds fine.
Have any of you 5 or 6 speed guys experienced this type of issue? If so, is the right fix to replace the shoes?
My SC300's emergency brake does not keep the car in place when the nose end of the car is on a higher gradient than the rear end. However, when the rear end is on a higher gradient than the nose, the emergency brake holds fine.
Have any of you 5 or 6 speed guys experienced this type of issue? If so, is the right fix to replace the shoes?
05-31-08, 02:56 PM
#3
you can get to the nut that is in the center console and tighten the ebrake. the factory spec is that you should have about 8-9 clicks of the ebrake for it to fully engage. mine was at 14. i just replaced my rear rotor(got em for 35 per 
), pads, and was going to do the ebrake shoes beacuse i though they were trashed. i was not able to lock up the rear when i went drifting to initiate. i thought the shoes were gone but they were okay actually.
your ebrake cable stretches over time too so this can cause it not to work right. to adjust the ebrake take off the center console cover(brown piece on tan cars), take off the ebrake leather cover and you will see the adjusting nut and the cable. there are two nuts. one to tighten the cable and another one to lock it in place so it doesnt back out. both of the nuts are 10mm. you have to use a deep 10mm socket(use 1/4" drive because its tight in there) and an extension. on the side of the center console there is a little access hole for you to get a 10mm wrench onto and tighten the cable. btw the ebrake has to be down to be adjusted. common sense i know
if you understood everything up to this point you should be able to finish the job
), pads, and was going to do the ebrake shoes beacuse i though they were trashed. i was not able to lock up the rear when i went drifting to initiate. i thought the shoes were gone but they were okay actually.your ebrake cable stretches over time too so this can cause it not to work right. to adjust the ebrake take off the center console cover(brown piece on tan cars), take off the ebrake leather cover and you will see the adjusting nut and the cable. there are two nuts. one to tighten the cable and another one to lock it in place so it doesnt back out. both of the nuts are 10mm. you have to use a deep 10mm socket(use 1/4" drive because its tight in there) and an extension. on the side of the center console there is a little access hole for you to get a 10mm wrench onto and tighten the cable. btw the ebrake has to be down to be adjusted. common sense i know
if you understood everything up to this point you should be able to finish the job
05-31-08, 02:56 PM
#4
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I will try to tighten the cable tomorrow... but this does not seem to explain why my car only 'holds' in the position where the nose is lower than the rear. I assume this is because of a worn out shoe - are there any DIY tutorials to replace the shoes?
09-12-08, 06:51 PM
#6
Pole Position
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I've been having issues with the emergency brake as well. I've tightened the e-brake to my liking and once I release the e-brake back down the nuts spin back as how they were previously. Any advice or explanation as to why this is occurring?
?
09-12-08, 07:24 PM
#7
there are two nuts if you look closely. you loosen the top one and adjust the tension with the bottom one. when you have the tension set where you want it to be you tighten the top nut. its works like double nutting.
wow too much nut talk lol
either way it is a lot easier to do if you remove the trim around the radio and get it from there. all you need is a ratchet with a 10mm deep socket and long extension and a 10mm wrench.
good luck.
wow too much nut talk lol
either way it is a lot easier to do if you remove the trim around the radio and get it from there. all you need is a ratchet with a 10mm deep socket and long extension and a 10mm wrench.
good luck.
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09-15-09, 04:56 PM
#8
Driver
you can get to the nut that is in the center console and tighten the ebrake. the factory spec is that you should have about 8-9 clicks of the ebrake for it to fully engage. mine was at 14. i just replaced my rear rotor(got em for 35 per ), pads, and was going to do the ebrake shoes beacuse i though they were trashed. i was not able to lock up the rear when i went drifting to initiate. i thought the shoes were gone but they were okay actually.
your ebrake cable stretches over time too so this can cause it not to work right. to adjust the ebrake take off the center console cover(brown piece on tan cars), take off the ebrake leather cover and you will see the adjusting nut and the cable. there are two nuts. one to tighten the cable and another one to lock it in place so it doesnt back out. both of the nuts are 10mm. you have to use a deep 10mm socket(use 1/4" drive because its tight in there) and an extension. on the side of the center console there is a little access hole for you to get a 10mm wrench onto and tighten the cable. btw the ebrake has to be down to be adjusted. common sense i know
if you understood everything up to this point you should be able to finish the job
), pads, and was going to do the ebrake shoes beacuse i though they were trashed. i was not able to lock up the rear when i went drifting to initiate. i thought the shoes were gone but they were okay actually.your ebrake cable stretches over time too so this can cause it not to work right. to adjust the ebrake take off the center console cover(brown piece on tan cars), take off the ebrake leather cover and you will see the adjusting nut and the cable. there are two nuts. one to tighten the cable and another one to lock it in place so it doesnt back out. both of the nuts are 10mm. you have to use a deep 10mm socket(use 1/4" drive because its tight in there) and an extension. on the side of the center console there is a little access hole for you to get a 10mm wrench onto and tighten the cable. btw the ebrake has to be down to be adjusted. common sense i know
if you understood everything up to this point you should be able to finish the job
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