Rumble in my seat
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Hi Folks,
I've had a slight rumble in my seat for awhile now. My OEM rear driver's side wheel was a bit off balance (which I thought was the root cause of this problem originally), so I replaced all the wheels and tires. The rumble is much less, very subtle, but still there. I only notice it at speeds of 70 mph+, and it seems to be worse on bad roads. The rumble is regular and periodic; it always has the same frequency and increases as speed increases.
Any ideas about what could be causing this? As stated, I don't think it's the wheels/tires as I'm on my second set and can still replicate the problem (though severity has gone down). Thanks!
I've had a slight rumble in my seat for awhile now. My OEM rear driver's side wheel was a bit off balance (which I thought was the root cause of this problem originally), so I replaced all the wheels and tires. The rumble is much less, very subtle, but still there. I only notice it at speeds of 70 mph+, and it seems to be worse on bad roads. The rumble is regular and periodic; it always has the same frequency and increases as speed increases.
Any ideas about what could be causing this? As stated, I don't think it's the wheels/tires as I'm on my second set and can still replicate the problem (though severity has gone down). Thanks!
Last edited by FiveOhNine; 06-02-08 at 04:58 PM.
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More like riding a bus. Vibrations is a better word...I was just trying to highlight how I notice them, from my perspective. It is very subtle, almost like going over a series of small bumps in the road, say 10 small bumps of ~2" or less at about a 6' apart @ 75 mph.
Make any sense?
Make any sense?
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Still OEM suspension except for wheels and tires, and the passengers can feel this. I am 99% sure it is something in the suspension, just can't put my finger on what it could be.
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18x8.5 & 18x9.5 1 piece. No spacers, but I did put on hubcentric rings. I've had the alignment checked at least 3 times in the last year, most recently about 3 months ago.
Edit: no alignment since I got the wheels....maybe I'll have them checked when I get springs (hopefully in the next month or so).....hopefully springs won't exacerbate the problem.
Edit: no alignment since I got the wheels....maybe I'll have them checked when I get springs (hopefully in the next month or so).....hopefully springs won't exacerbate the problem.
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If the symptom changed when you changed the tires that is most likely the problem. Front wheel/tire imbalance is felt as a shimmy in the steering wheel.
Rear wheel/tire imbalance is usually felt as a shake in the seats. Put your headrests all the way up to see this easier. Go to the smoothest road you can find that you can go at least 65 MPH. after this baseline test if you have a vibration, note the speed range and go back to the shop that balanced the tires tell them what you found at what speed. Keep in mind most balancers spin at about 65 MPH. first have them check to see how much weight is needed to balance your tire before removing the weights already on the wheel. (I forgot to say the first thing you do for any ride disturbance problem is insure all tire air pressures are set to factory specs.) If the wheel tire combo cannot be balanced to zero with weights on both sides of the wheel, inner & outer edge, then the tire should be spun 180 degrees on the wheel. This is to attempt to align the "high spot" of the tire with the "low spot" of the wheel. If this does not reduce the amount of weight required to balance the assembly (less than 3.5 oz) The tire should be removed to check the balance of the wheel by itself. The wheel should not call for more than 1.5oz to balance it, but don't put weights on wheel without tire installed. If wheel is within balance specs without adding balance weights that means the tire is the problem. remount tire & rebalance, object of the game is to use minimum weight to get wheel/tire assembly to point where when it is spun on balancer it calls for zero additional weight. If at this point you are not satisfied with your balance and you are not suffering from bent or cheap wheels/ defective/cheap tires you can have the tires balanced on the car. this a much better method but much more expensive and if you remove wheel it must be replaced in same position on studs.
I hope this is understandable reply if you need clarification.
Wheel alignment has no effect on vibrations it only aims the tires.
Unlikely that suspension is contributor unless a part is about to fall off.
Don't forget to check air pressure first!
Rear wheel/tire imbalance is usually felt as a shake in the seats. Put your headrests all the way up to see this easier. Go to the smoothest road you can find that you can go at least 65 MPH. after this baseline test if you have a vibration, note the speed range and go back to the shop that balanced the tires tell them what you found at what speed. Keep in mind most balancers spin at about 65 MPH. first have them check to see how much weight is needed to balance your tire before removing the weights already on the wheel. (I forgot to say the first thing you do for any ride disturbance problem is insure all tire air pressures are set to factory specs.) If the wheel tire combo cannot be balanced to zero with weights on both sides of the wheel, inner & outer edge, then the tire should be spun 180 degrees on the wheel. This is to attempt to align the "high spot" of the tire with the "low spot" of the wheel. If this does not reduce the amount of weight required to balance the assembly (less than 3.5 oz) The tire should be removed to check the balance of the wheel by itself. The wheel should not call for more than 1.5oz to balance it, but don't put weights on wheel without tire installed. If wheel is within balance specs without adding balance weights that means the tire is the problem. remount tire & rebalance, object of the game is to use minimum weight to get wheel/tire assembly to point where when it is spun on balancer it calls for zero additional weight. If at this point you are not satisfied with your balance and you are not suffering from bent or cheap wheels/ defective/cheap tires you can have the tires balanced on the car. this a much better method but much more expensive and if you remove wheel it must be replaced in same position on studs.
I hope this is understandable reply if you need clarification.
Wheel alignment has no effect on vibrations it only aims the tires.
Unlikely that suspension is contributor unless a part is about to fall off.
Don't forget to check air pressure first!
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I had a road force balance done which fixed the vibrations. The car is still floaty and a tends to wander a bit at high speeds, but it is much easier to control now. I am going to have an alignment done as soon as I can find a place that will do a decent job, and beyond that I'm going to lower it a bit. Until someone comes out with some decent steering modifications, there isn't much else that I can do.
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I had a road force balance done which fixed the vibrations. The car is still floaty and a tends to wander a bit at high speeds, but it is much easier to control now. I am going to have an alignment done as soon as I can find a place that will do a decent job, and beyond that I'm going to lower it a bit. Until someone comes out with some decent steering modifications, there isn't much else that I can do.
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Sorry, but there's something else wrong with your car. I've never needed a roadforce balance on anything I've owned from Toyota, and it surprises me you're needing this to solve your issues. The rumble in the seat and the need for exceptional measures just to eliminate noise and vibration while you are driving tells me you have something really unusual - like an off-balance drive shaft - going on with your car.
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Do you feel the vibration? I can hear a vibration but i can not feel it. thought the wheels were out of balance but that didnt fix the problem. I can hear it more at high speeds. makes me wonder if a tire is separating...
I wonder if the rotors are warped. have you machined or replaced the rotors?
My problem might not be the same as yours though. lobuxracer do you have any ideas on mine?
I wonder if the rotors are warped. have you machined or replaced the rotors?
My problem might not be the same as yours though. lobuxracer do you have any ideas on mine?
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I felt the vibration at 70-80 mph, and the car was difficult to control at those speeds. A road force balance is a bit more comprehensive than a wheel balance, so that may or may not help. I'm not quite sure I understand the feeling vs hearing vibrations distinction?
Rotors are original with no machining done, but I would think that warped rotors would only cause vibrations during braking.
I would check your tread as it may have some uneven wearing...
Rotors are original with no machining done, but I would think that warped rotors would only cause vibrations during braking.
I would check your tread as it may have some uneven wearing...