pic of F-sport brakes upgrade
#35
i'll update for sure after i break them in more, but so far its been a week and maybe about 300 kms.. it i definitely feel it to be more responsive, but thats completely subjective. i could have done a before and after distance test, but for me it more for looks than performance.. and i'm definitely happy with the looks
sunday i will have time to do a good photoshoot and i'll post more pics up afterwards.
sunday i will have time to do a good photoshoot and i'll post more pics up afterwards.
#36
#41
#42
#43
this is what the manual says:
1. before starting the break in procedure drive with gentle braking, do not use brakes aggressively until performing break-in procedure
2.make a series of 10 stops from 60 - 5-10 MPH. at the end of each stop immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. run all stops continuously in one cycle.
3. during the 60 - 5 -10 MPH series of stops the exact speed is not critical.
4. a moderate braking effort is needed to properly break in the rotors and pads. a stopping force of approximately .8G's, just short of ABS intervention, is the level of pedel effort you are trying to attain.
5. on the 8 or 9th stop there should be a distinct smell from the brakes, smoke may be evident as during earlier stops as well.
6. also on the 8th or 9th stop some friction materials will experience 'green fade'. this is a slight fading of the brakes. the fade will stabilize but not completely go away until the brakes have cooled.
7. after the break in cycle is finished there will be a blue tint color on the rotor vanes with a light gray film on the rotor face. this indicates the rotor has reached the proper break in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face.
i'm not sure if this is required to just a brake pad change, kinda overkill maybe? but i believe you are trying to bring the temperature up to brake in the pads and rotors in my case..
1. before starting the break in procedure drive with gentle braking, do not use brakes aggressively until performing break-in procedure
2.make a series of 10 stops from 60 - 5-10 MPH. at the end of each stop immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. run all stops continuously in one cycle.
3. during the 60 - 5 -10 MPH series of stops the exact speed is not critical.
4. a moderate braking effort is needed to properly break in the rotors and pads. a stopping force of approximately .8G's, just short of ABS intervention, is the level of pedel effort you are trying to attain.
5. on the 8 or 9th stop there should be a distinct smell from the brakes, smoke may be evident as during earlier stops as well.
6. also on the 8th or 9th stop some friction materials will experience 'green fade'. this is a slight fading of the brakes. the fade will stabilize but not completely go away until the brakes have cooled.
7. after the break in cycle is finished there will be a blue tint color on the rotor vanes with a light gray film on the rotor face. this indicates the rotor has reached the proper break in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face.
i'm not sure if this is required to just a brake pad change, kinda overkill maybe? but i believe you are trying to bring the temperature up to brake in the pads and rotors in my case..
#44
this is what the manual says:
1. before starting the break in procedure drive with gentle braking, do not use brakes aggressively until performing break-in procedure
2.make a series of 10 stops from 60 - 5-10 MPH. at the end of each stop immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. run all stops continuously in one cycle.
3. during the 60 - 5 -10 MPH series of stops the exact speed is not critical.
4. a moderate braking effort is needed to properly break in the rotors and pads. a stopping force of approximately .8G's, just short of ABS intervention, is the level of pedel effort you are trying to attain.
5. on the 8 or 9th stop there should be a distinct smell from the brakes, smoke may be evident as during earlier stops as well.
6. also on the 8th or 9th stop some friction materials will experience 'green fade'. this is a slight fading of the brakes. the fade will stabilize but not completely go away until the brakes have cooled.
7. after the break in cycle is finished there will be a blue tint color on the rotor vanes with a light gray film on the rotor face. this indicates the rotor has reached the proper break in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face.
i'm not sure if this is required to just a brake pad change, kinda overkill maybe? but i believe you are trying to bring the temperature up to brake in the pads and rotors in my case..
1. before starting the break in procedure drive with gentle braking, do not use brakes aggressively until performing break-in procedure
2.make a series of 10 stops from 60 - 5-10 MPH. at the end of each stop immediately accelerate to 60 again for the next stop. run all stops continuously in one cycle.
3. during the 60 - 5 -10 MPH series of stops the exact speed is not critical.
4. a moderate braking effort is needed to properly break in the rotors and pads. a stopping force of approximately .8G's, just short of ABS intervention, is the level of pedel effort you are trying to attain.
5. on the 8 or 9th stop there should be a distinct smell from the brakes, smoke may be evident as during earlier stops as well.
6. also on the 8th or 9th stop some friction materials will experience 'green fade'. this is a slight fading of the brakes. the fade will stabilize but not completely go away until the brakes have cooled.
7. after the break in cycle is finished there will be a blue tint color on the rotor vanes with a light gray film on the rotor face. this indicates the rotor has reached the proper break in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face.
i'm not sure if this is required to just a brake pad change, kinda overkill maybe? but i believe you are trying to bring the temperature up to brake in the pads and rotors in my case..
#45
Update from the dealer. Thoughts?
"No, they do not have to be “broken in”- it is better for a new brake pad surface to match up to a clean and even rotor surface to get the best wear."
Mind you I'm not getting new rotors, just new pads and the current rotors will be cut a bit.
Thoughts?
"No, they do not have to be “broken in”- it is better for a new brake pad surface to match up to a clean and even rotor surface to get the best wear."
Mind you I'm not getting new rotors, just new pads and the current rotors will be cut a bit.
Thoughts?