Suspension and Brakes Springs, shocks, coilovers, sways, braces, brakes, etc.

How BAD did I MESS up my BRAKES!!!!! HEEELLLLPPPPP!

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Old 09-29-08 | 10:09 PM
  #16  
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yes that is the part that i am talking about. My bolts will be in tomorrow so hopefully i will be able to just screw it in with no problem and not have to worry about the caliper, we'll see.
I dont know how to bleed brakes, and im a little skeptical of removing the caliper although its just held on by the hose; however getting air trapped inside the system is my biggest worry (read it somewhere on the forum). I realize in order to properly fix this i will have to take the caliper off, be it timesert or taking it to a shop to get it tapped which i'll probably do to get it done right.

Last edited by 350PsDMeuP; 09-30-08 at 09:25 AM.
Old 09-30-08 | 12:24 AM
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You would be smart to clean up the threads with a 12 x 1.25mm tap. Despite what some would tell you, use engine oil or tap oil on the tap. Don't use WD-40, it's got no lubricating ability at all and you really only want to take as little metal as possible. Engine oil, or ideally tap oil, will do this well.

If you use the new bolt to clean up the threads, expect one of the new bolts to be junk after you run it down and back.
Old 09-30-08 | 04:15 PM
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I'd buy a new caliper. Brakes are something you don't want to chance. You are looking into a new caliper at least. I thing that if you end up repairing this caliper the bolt may loosen or fall out.
Old 09-30-08 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by carchitect
I'd buy a new caliper. Brakes are something you don't want to chance. You are looking into a new caliper at least. I thing that if you end up repairing this caliper the bolt may loosen or fall out.
I agree PM VikH as we had a simliar problem on his RX where it was rusted out and he replaced the whole caliper. I thought it was around 200$ and the dealer wanted 500$?? He can fill you in on the details but I would not try to fix it if it where my car. Too much depends on that
Old 09-30-08 | 07:22 PM
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yeah that is true, ill see in a couple of days if the screw is stripped or if its the actual caliper, I will keep you posted!
Old 09-30-08 | 07:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by carchitect
I'd buy a new caliper. Brakes are something you don't want to chance. You are looking into a new caliper at least. I thing that if you end up repairing this caliper the bolt may loosen or fall out.
It would be a lot cheaper to take it to a decent machine shop and have it repaired. It's just a blind nut pressed into the caliper. It's not like the integrity of the caliper itself is in doubt. I can think of about 5 ways to fix it without spending more than 30 minutes on the whole process, so in all likelihood, it could be repaired by a competent machinist for $100 or less.
Old 10-01-08 | 12:49 PM
  #22  
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UPDATE: today i recieved the new bolt; however getting it in there was a pain, so i used some oil and the old screw and it went all the way in, i was able to torque it and everything. the caliper insert is stripped but its in the middle somehere but if you try hard enough the bolt will pass through. Thanks for all the help guys!

Lesson learned never impact wrench without hand tightening to the maximum first, those seconds of noise will cause you a night of pain! LOL

thanks guys, big ups to luboxracer for all the help!
Old 10-01-08 | 01:01 PM
  #23  
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glad to hear that you got it done. Also luboxracer always gives best advices...
Old 10-15-08 | 08:26 AM
  #24  
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Helicoil insert and it will be as good as new. The bolt does not see much axial force so it should be fine. Never use an impact wrench to screw down a bolt!!! That's madness imo. I could help you out but you're in TX.
Old 10-25-08 | 06:00 PM
  #25  
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reminds me of the first time i did my brakes... i broke the head of a bold off in the caliper. i nearly ***** myself. i took it to a machine shop and had them re-thread it for me. only cost me $25.
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