When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Reviving a very old thread here after weeks of scrolling through 75 pages of this and along with other resources: I'm sharing my experience with the F-Sport rear sway bar which I cannot believe I didn't do this 6 years ago when I first got my 2011 IS350 F-Sport RWD... I bought the rear sway bar (PTR02-53080) online from a local Lexus dealership and surprisingly, the rear sway bar did not have the F-Sport logo anywhere on the bar. It was packaged as TRD instead of F-Sport (which I don't mind cause Toyota=Lexus) and only came with the two bushings. The logo doesn't really matter as the bar will be underneath the car but I'm just saying.
However, I will say that if your 2IS is lowered, it's highly recommended that you get adjustable sway end links because the position of the sway bar is not parallel to the ground/at a 90 degree angle. I found that with the OEM sway end links, the sway bar is pointing at 2 o'clock/10 o'clock position instead of 3 o'clock/9 o'clock position. I've been hearing some noises in the back that was not there before the install and I'm pretty certain that it's the endlinks. My is350 isn't slammed, it's just lowered enough to close the wheel gap. I was researching between Sikky and FIGS and decided to spend a little bit more to go with FIGS because I read that some other 2IS owners found the Sikky endlinks to be longer than the OEM endlinks although Sikky's were adjustable. I ordered the FIGS endlinks from them on Fri and will be here tomorrow so I'll get those swapped out.
PTR02-53080:
Before install with OEM rear sway bar:
After install with F-Sport rear sway bar and OEM sway endlinks:
MNEWGEN, is the noise being heard sound like a popping noise every so often when vehicle is driven very slowly or when rolling to a complete stop?
MNEWGEN, is the noise being heard sound like a popping noise every so often when vehicle is driven very slowly or when rolling to a complete stop?
The sound occurs with low speeds under 15-20mphs on slightly uneven roads. It sounds like it's coming from the rear sway area only mostly on rear passenger side. I would need to hear it again to determine what kind of sound it makes. If only I still had a GoPro, I'd attached it back there to determine the root cause. I have a Cusco rear strut bar which I made sure to torque to correct specs. I'll check tomorrow when I'm underneath to install the FIGS. Haven't been able to take corners fast yet because I read that some guys OEM endlinks gave out after the F-Sport rear sway bar install. Also my sway bar is not parallel
Understood and thank you for the follow up. I ask because I too have the rear sway bar (part PTR02-53080) installed with MOOG K750288 rear end links. Sometime after I then installed the 2008 IS F front sway bar (Part 48811 53070), with OEM front end links (Part 48810-53010). I also have installed RF C lower control arm bushings (Part 48075-24010 (Left & Right).
Recently begin hearing a popping noise while at low speed and thought perhaps it may have been the OEM brakes. Removed the OEM brakes, Front & Rear and installed AKEBONO ACT118 (F) & ACT1113 (R). Changing the pads did not resolve the popping noise however, great breaks and no more brake dust (especially in the front). I'm thinking it may be the end links as well,
Understood and thank you for the follow up. I ask because I too have the rear sway bar (part PTR02-53080) installed with MOOG K750288 rear end links. Sometime after I then installed the 2008 IS F front sway bar (Part 48811 53070), with OEM front end links (Part 48810-53010). I also have installed RF C lower control arm bushings (Part 48075-24010 (Left & Right).
Recently begin hearing a popping noise while at low speed and thought perhaps it may have been the OEM brakes. Removed the OEM brakes, Front & Rear and installed AKEBONO ACT118 (F) & ACT1113 (R). Changing the pads did not resolve the popping noise however, great breaks and no more brake dust (especially in the front). I'm thinking it may be the end links as well,
I installed the FIGS rear sway endlinks last night (model number L1053). I'm actually glad I went with FIGS because although I'm not slammed, the FIGS endlinks was adjustable to nearly the shortest length possible. Unfortunately, I'm still hearing the same noise in the rear passenger side. The noise can be described as a slight pop, not like popcorn but it's audible enough to know something is not right. I'm going to get back underneath today to adjust the top part of the rear passenger endlink because after reviewing some footage, it does not look correct like the rear driver's side. Anyone have any suggestions?
I installed the FIGS rear sway endlinks last night (model number L1053). I'm actually glad I went with FIGS because although I'm not slammed, the FIGS endlinks was adjustable to nearly the shortest length possible. Unfortunately, I'm still hearing the same noise in the rear passenger side. The noise can be described as a slight pop, not like popcorn but it's audible enough to know something is not right. I'm going to get back underneath today to adjust the top part of the rear passenger endlink because after reviewing some footage, it does not look correct like the rear driver's side. Anyone have any suggestions?
OEM sway endlinks and FIGS sway endlinks:
Rear driver's side:
Rear passenger's side:
I'd say something is not torqued to spec. I spent the whole weekend installing my BC coilovers. Finished product no clunk what so ever. At a 1.00 inch drop all around my end links are still good to go. The AWD drive should of came like this from factory so fun to drive.
You can start by reseting the rear lower control arm, and torque to specs. Loosen all the bolts and snug them up somewhat. Then move the car back and forth. At this point put the rear end on ramps. Once up you can torque everything to spec. These bolts require almost 80-120ft lbs.
See attached F-sport springs for guidance.
If after all is done, and still has noises. You can look at proper coil preload. 5mm should be good enough. Next make sure upper mounts are torqued to spec 55 ft lbs. With aftermarket end links once they get use. You will start to hear squeaks as well. Being exposed like that to the elements is not good. These are more ideal for track use only.
See spec sheets below:
Edit: Rear lower control arm the nuts are semi captive. You want to torque on the bolt head, and not nut.
I installed the FIGS rear sway endlinks last night (model number L1053). I'm actually glad I went with FIGS because although I'm not slammed, the FIGS endlinks was adjustable to nearly the shortest length possible. Unfortunately, I'm still hearing the same noise in the rear passenger side. The noise can be described as a slight pop, not like popcorn but it's audible enough to know something is not right. I'm going to get back underneath today to adjust the top part of the rear passenger endlink because after reviewing some footage, it does not look correct like the rear driver's side. Anyone have any suggestions?
OEM sway endlinks and FIGS sway endlinks:
Rear driver's side:
Rear passenger's side:
A couple of things:
Would the OEM links be able to drop to the lower holes in the lower control arm?
The Figs almost look too short now. Another thing, IIRC the links are not a true 90°. I suggest you verify each link is able to rotate +/- a small amount each direction. If at their rotational limit, they will bind and clunk. When the lock nut is set, each end of the link should be parallel to the mount area to ensure it is free to rotate a small amount.
I would also suggest you buy stock in energy suspension poly bushing grease "formula 5 prelube", and lube all rotation points including the sway bar body mount.
Question? Your lower shock mounts, are they rubber or a heim joint? If rubber, was the car at ride height when the pinch bolts were tightened? Were any other rubber bushings tightened when the car was in the air? If so, they are being over rotated when the chassis sits at ride height w the wheels on the ground.
Cheers for being one of the few who thinks about how the sway bar works and it needing to be parallel to the ground! So many people miss this.
Do a search for parallel in this 2IS forum, I bet you find a dozen posts from me on the topic.
Used small amount of Prothane Grease 19-1750 (Super, Silicone / PTF) at stabilizer bar / bushing (non polyurethane) contact points and a little on the treaded control arm stud where the lowered control arm bushing is installed on.
Discovered something interesting with regard to the occasional "popping noise" herd from time to time. Wile parked, vehicle running placed in Park and brake applied, the steering wheel was turned fully to the left then right and repeated. Nothing was heard. Placed the vehicle in Drive, while brake applied and engine running, and turned the steering wheel again was turned, and the noise can be heard from the rear of the vehicle. Only heard when vehicle is placed in Drive and not in Park. Will have someone perform the procedure while outside inspecting the vehicle to determine possible cause of the noise.
Have since confirmed noise being heard from rear of vehicle while engine running, placed in Drive, brake applied and wheel is turned from side to side. While under rear of vehicle (while vehicle on ground, not ramps etc.), can hear the noise however, unable to confirm the exact location or source of noise, but appears to be in the vicinity of end link location.. Noise not heard when placed in Park and steering wheel turned from side to side. Will remove the MOOG K750288 links install OEM rear end links 48830-30090 to see if that resolves the issue. Front OEM end links were already installed (48820-53010 - front right Stabilizer Link / 48810-53010 - front left Stabilizer Link).
Does the vehicle need to remain on the ground level / to replace the sway bar end links or can the rear be elevated (rear driven on ramps) without issue?
The sound occurs with low speeds under 15-20mphs on slightly uneven roads. It sounds like it's coming from the rear sway area only mostly on rear passenger side. I would need to hear it again to determine what kind of sound it makes. If only I still had a GoPro, I'd attached it back there to determine the root cause. I have a Cusco rear strut bar which I made sure to torque to correct specs. I'll check tomorrow when I'm underneath to install the FIGS. Haven't been able to take corners fast yet because I read that some guys OEM endlinks gave out after the F-Sport rear sway bar install. Also my sway bar is not parallel
what torque spec did you torque your cusco sway bar to?
what torque spec are your figs front and rear sway bar endlinks torqued to connecting to the sway bar side, and also to the lower control arm side?
Do you also happen to know what torque spec you did for the sway bar bushings/bushing bracket that mounts into the chassis?
Does the vehicle need to remain on the ground level / to replace the sway bar end links or can the rear be elevated (rear driven on ramps) without issue?
Given you have ample access under the car and it won't roll over you, the only requirement is that the vehicle is level from side to side, not needed front to rear.
If not basically level from side to side you will be fighting the strength of the bar to seat it. If this happens, seat the body last.
If your car is being raised/lowered, have sitting on all 4's, so you can see if the bar is level.
I pulled the end links from the control arms, then did the body bolts.
I'd highly recommend using a premium silicone lubricant for any poly installs. Energy suspension makes a good product. Start there.
Understood, thank you 2013FSport! I previously was able to install the rear bar while not raised / on the ground (and only after a day of waiting for the PB Blaster penetrating oil to work), however, would like NOT to not fight the limited space this time, and add some clearance for room to work. Wasn't sure if vehicle needed to remain level while performing the installation of the rear end links. Again, thanks!
Understood, thank you 2013FSport! I previously was able to install the rear bar while not raised / on the ground (and only after a day of waiting for the PB Blaster penetrating oil to work), however, would like NOT to not fight the limited space this time, and add some clearance for room to work. Wasn't sure if vehicle needed to remain level while performing the installation of the rear end links. Again, thanks!
Finally had time to change out the rear stabilizer bar end links. I began by spraying PB blaster penetrating oil on the nuts / bolts to be removed. Began on the right rear side, and immediately noticed that the top end link bolt (believe it to be 18mm ?), was loose and able to spin by hand (see photo below with 18mm bolt referenced by Loose Bolt). I could have tightened back up and have been done however, since I had the new OEM end links, installed both the right and left rear. Will follow up after driving the vehicle some to confirm if the bolt being loose was causing he issue / noise.
07-17-22, 12:07 PM
