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Finally had time to change out the rear stabilizer bar end links. I began by spraying PB blaster penetrating oil on the nuts / bolts to be removed. Began on the right rear side, and immediately noticed that the top end link bolt (believe it to be 18mm ?), was loose and able to spin by hand (see photo below with 18mm bolt referenced by Loose Bolt). I could have tightened back up and have been done however, since I had the new OEM end links, installed both the right and left rear. Will follow up after driving the vehicle some to confirm if the bolt being loose was causing he issue / noise.
are you allowed to tighten that bolt (the one at the top of the endlink) from the bolt side? Is it even possible to tighten it from the other side?
To better understand the removal process, view the following video showing the removal of the rear end links. The use of a 6mm Allen wrench to remove the rear end link was not needed (the 18mm nut was removed without being seized on the end link stud bolt (referenced at 2:18 in video);
Follow up: So the noise previously heard has quieted (I assume due to the loose End Link not) however, with engine running, brake applied and vehicle placed in Drive, when the steering wheel is turned Left, a creaking noise can be heard from rear Right side just prior to steering wheel coming to a stop. When the steering wheel is turned Right, it appears the same noise can be heard coming form the rear Left side! Will have to confirm what common part in the rear is engaged, while the steering is turned (engine running and vehicle in Drive)..
Sorry for the late response gents, it's been a rough few months. I recently did some full work on the vehicle and will be tweaking them by Tuesday. I swapped out new coilovers, rotors, pads, brake fluid and will be greasing the rear sway bar bushings and endlinks. This noise is driving me nuts. With the new coilovers, I raised the vehicle up a bit and it's still making that annoying popping noise. At this point, I'm thinking of switching to Sikky endlinks instead since I'm not lowered like I was before. I'll add more pictures Tuesday since I'll tied up til then. Will keep yall updated.
what torque spec did you torque your cusco sway bar to?
what torque spec are your figs front and rear sway bar endlinks torqued to connecting to the sway bar side, and also to the lower control arm side?
Do you also happen to know what torque spec you did for the sway bar bushings/bushing bracket that mounts into the chassis?
I have the F-Sport rear sway bar instead Cusco. The only Cusco I have is the front and rear strut bars but I'm going to check again Tuesday when I get underneath again for nearly the 10th time lol. As for the sway bar bushings and mounts to the chassis, I have the document somewhere; will find it again unless you have it handy, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Edit, this is one document I have that was shared by @MikeFig82
Follow up: So the noise previously heard has quieted (I assume due to the loose End Link not) however, with engine running, brake applied and vehicle placed in Drive, when the steering wheel is turned Left, a creaking noise can be heard from rear Right side just prior to steering wheel coming to a stop. When the steering wheel is turned Right, it appears the same noise can be heard coming form the rear Left side! Will have to confirm what common part in the rear is engaged, while the steering is turned (engine running and vehicle in Drive)..
Did you find out what it was? Also were you on a leveled or elevated surface?
A couple of things:
Would the OEM links be able to drop to the lower holes in the lower control arm?
The Figs almost look too short now. Another thing, IIRC the links are not a true 90°. I suggest you verify each link is able to rotate +/- a small amount each direction. If at their rotational limit, they will bind and clunk. When the lock nut is set, each end of the link should be parallel to the mount area to ensure it is free to rotate a small amount.
I would also suggest you buy stock in energy suspension poly bushing grease "formula 5 prelube", and lube all rotation points including the sway bar body mount.
Question? Your lower shock mounts, are they rubber or a heim joint? If rubber, was the car at ride height when the pinch bolts were tightened? Were any other rubber bushings tightened when the car was in the air? If so, they are being over rotated when the chassis sits at ride height w the wheels on the ground.
Cheers for being one of the few who thinks about how the sway bar works and it needing to be parallel to the ground! So many people miss this.
Do a search for parallel in this 2IS forum, I bet you find a dozen posts from me on the topic.
GL
Btw, I did drop the FIGS endlinks down to the second/middle hole on the LCA (at it's longest length) but the noise is still there. I also noticed that I have incorrectly installed the 19mm bolt that connects the bottom of the coilovers through the LCA. I will change the direction of those bolts correctly tomorrow. I also picked up Sikky endlinks and wow... they are long like the OEM ones even at the shortest length. I'm actually lowkey worried that it won't fit correctly for the sway bar to be parallel after loaded on the ramp/flat ground. Will be putting the rear on ramps to adjust the FIGS endlinks and then compare with Sikky's endlinks tomorrow. I'm going to loosen up the bolts, remove the rear sway bar, grease bushings with Energy Suspension lube, reinstall the rear sway bar and bushings, endlinks and then hand tighten the bolts back in without over tightening them. Will then lower the rear on a ramp and torque the rest to specs with my torque wrench.
Question, are you advising that I torque the bolts to specs while the rear is on the ramp to have the suspension loaded instead of in the air/jackstands? I believe that was my mistake the first time installing the FIGS endlinks. I have been literally working on this for 3 days straight last week and fell asleep in the driveway at 6am last week lol....
I just spent the past 3 hours going through so many threads, researching and have not yet to find any helpful info with the same/similar set up as mine with coilovers, F-Sport rear sway bar, FIGS endlinks, MR rear LCAs, and now possibily Sikky endlinks. I have seen some that they said FIGS and/or Sikky works great for them with no issues but the main concern I have is, are they running coilovers or aftermarket LCAs? Also is the locknut at the bottom of the FIGS endlink supposed to be snug/not tightened so it to move and rotate to avoid binding/clunking? Because with Sikky in the video and installation instructions, they had tighten them without the vehicle on the ground with suspension loaded.
Just confirmed by test fitting the Sikky endlinks at their shortest length, it will not fit correctly with the F-Sport rear sway bar and MR LCAs. It will fit if your ride isn't lowered/at stock height. I'm lowered with 1 finger gap above the tires.
I don't have time to answer everything. It's rubber bonded joints that can't be tightened with the suspension hanging. Open hiem joints don't care.
You noticed some of the OEM parts are sealed hiem joints having a rubber boot to keep grease in, dirt and moisture out. Aged ones could tear boot but unlikely.
Make sure everything is tight. Hopefully you don't have a joint failure in play. They say anything about greasing exposed heim joints?
Hello. I'm planning to buy the F-Sport Rear Sway bar for my IS350 2007 RWD model with P/N PTR02-53080 as my first mod to my IS350. Later I want to lower my car using the F-Sport lowering springs with P/N PTR07-53090. I searched in the forum and everyone said I have to do an alignment after lowering the car, and I wonder if the F-Sport rear sway bar will fit after performing the alignment or do I need a bracket. Thanks.
09-04-22, 02:19 PM
