Suspension and Brakes Springs, shocks, coilovers, sways, braces, brakes, etc.

OMFG my sway bar mount broke.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-23-08, 02:10 AM
  #16  
Deception
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
 
Deception's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 847
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

tap and die is for rethreading.
Old 11-23-08, 02:18 AM
  #17  
ViEtNaStEe
Driver
 
ViEtNaStEe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: ca
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

That reallys sucks man. I wish you the best of luck getting that out.
Old 11-23-08, 08:34 PM
  #18  
kit cat
Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
kit cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: US
Posts: 6,571
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Deception
tap and die is for rethreading.

I know how to do that but didnt know what its called.

Originally Posted by ViEtNaStEe
That reallys sucks man. I wish you the best of luck getting that out.
thanks, hopefully I can extract it!
Old 11-23-08, 10:42 PM
  #19  
PHML
Master Thread Closer!!
iTrader: (33)
 
PHML's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Waipahu, Waikele, HI
Posts: 9,859
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Sears sells a screw/bolt extractor kit for $10.99....should be easy to do....good luck.

Pete
Old 11-23-08, 11:47 PM
  #20  
vj3
Driver School Candidate
 
vj3's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Feel your pain coz it happened to me, trying to tightened that same bolt at the (back sway bar) guess I put to much muscle on it the head went off. Bought a set of bolt & screw extractor from SEARS & one tungsten 1/8 size drill bit from Lowes. I was able to
drill out the nut little by little , I was not able to use the extractor coz every time I try to extract the nut out with it the drill can't move the nut. So I just drill it in the middle
put a hole from top to the other end of the nut & use another bit one size bigger & drill
again until I drill all the (nut) metal out. CAUTION be very careful not to hit the groove
for the nut or else your going to rethread it. Take your time, do it slowly but surely.
Old 11-24-08, 12:07 AM
  #21  
kit cat
Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
kit cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: US
Posts: 6,571
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by PHML
Sears sells a screw/bolt extractor kit for $10.99....should be easy to do....good luck.

Pete
good to know I'll have to go get one of those. I'm sure I'll use it again.

Originally Posted by vj3
Feel your pain coz it happened to me, trying to tightened that same bolt at the (back sway bar) guess I put to much muscle on it the head went off. Bought a set of bolt & screw extractor from SEARS & one tungsten 1/8 size drill bit from Lowes. I was able to
drill out the nut little by little , I was not able to use the extractor coz every time I try to extract the nut out with it the drill can't move the nut. So I just drill it in the middle
put a hole from top to the other end of the nut & use another bit one size bigger & drill
again until I drill all the (nut) metal out. CAUTION be very careful not to hit the groove
for the nut or else your going to rethread it. Take your time, do it slowly but surely.
that sounds really complicated....
Maybe I shouldn't be doing this since it's my first time using an extractor.
Old 01-18-09, 02:00 PM
  #22  
kit cat
Moderator
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
 
kit cat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: US
Posts: 6,571
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Finally got around fixing this.

The problem:
For some reason, Toyota decided to put those bolts that has the vertical cuts on the bolt, which I think expanded and got debris in those cuts over the years...thus locking it. And since the location of that bolt/nut is right where all the debris kicks up, it just got weathered.

The solution:
Drilling/extracting was meaningless. I went through two drill bits. The second drill bit snapped off while inside the bolt. So bust out your punch and hammer and hammer the **** out of it from the underneath till you punch it through the hole. You will see that the nut is welded on the 4 corners.

Replace the punched nut/bolt. I got OEM bolts from Lexus for like 5 bucks, if that. I planned on extracting the broken bolt out but that didn't happen. I went to a hardware store and got a (don't quote me...) 8x1.25 nut, washer, locking washer, and lock tight. Put it back in place, and walla, you have a rear sway bar.


it's hard to tell but the shiny black bar is my OEM sway bar. The shiny nut on top of that is what I fixed it with.

Last edited by kit cat; 01-18-09 at 02:09 PM.
Old 02-03-09, 10:07 AM
  #23  
sam430
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
 
sam430's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: somewhere CA
Posts: 3,732
Received 11 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

What is the bolt size? for future reference.
Old 02-03-09, 10:12 AM
  #24  
beez43
Pole Position
iTrader: (6)
 
beez43's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: HAWAII!!
Posts: 2,247
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

supposed to be a 12 i think?
Old 02-04-09, 09:50 PM
  #25  
sam430
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (10)
 
sam430's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: somewhere CA
Posts: 3,732
Received 11 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

I have a stupid question that I need answered. Why are people upgrading their sway bar? From what I see, the sway end link is so skinny, it won't help you no matter the thickness of the sway bar.

Ok...edumacate me please before I go out an purchase a sway bar instead of upgrading the end link.
Old 02-05-09, 06:50 AM
  #26  
LEXUS_KID
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (4)
 
LEXUS_KID's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: IN THE POKER ROOM!!!!
Posts: 10,823
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Dam that suck
Old 02-05-09, 06:51 PM
  #27  
GoFaSSter
Driver
iTrader: (1)
 
GoFaSSter's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by sam430
I have a stupid question that I need answered. Why are people upgrading their sway bar? From what I see, the sway end link is so skinny, it won't help you no matter the thickness of the sway bar.

Ok...edumacate me please before I go out an purchase a sway bar instead of upgrading the end link.
The sway bar helps with rotational twisting and thicker is better in this case. The end link is actually pushed and pulled in compression and tension so it is does not need to be as thick as the sway bar. I do think they are thin, but they do not need to be as beefy as the actual sway bar.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dminah21
GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005)
5
09-01-18 08:04 AM
flipmode64
RX - 2nd Gen (2004-2009)
10
11-03-16 02:18 PM
JamesG
Suspension and Brakes
5
06-29-13 01:20 PM
benbuilt4u
Suspension and Brakes
10
05-28-11 07:09 PM
Red Bully
Suspension and Brakes
3
09-07-08 12:14 AM



Quick Reply: OMFG my sway bar mount broke.



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:47 PM.