evileagle

your still not understanding the order...its not 1 side, then the other side. You have to start furthest from your Master Cylinder or in some cars, the abs unit. That means in our cars, if you are bleeding for the master cylinder, you will start with the rear right, then the rear left, then the front right, and finally the front left. If you dont do it in that exact order, then you are wasting your time cause the air will still be trapped in the lines.

Hope this helps

abounly

iTrader: (27)

We did do it in that order, and still nothing. But we had a shop bleed the lines so its fine now. the brakes are amazing.

dwebb99

iTrader: (17)

since he ran his MC dry,dimes to donuts, he had air trapped in his MC the whole time.....

Anthony85

Anytime your doing a job like that it is best to have a power bleeder... About a month ago I helped my friend change all four rotors on his Audi TT and brake lines as well. When it came to bleed the system we used a power bleeder punped it up to about 15psi and started from the back right wheel and while he worked his way closer to the Master Cylinder I made sure the pressure stayed up there at the 15psi mark.... Worked like a charm and completely got all the tiny air bubbles out of the system.

sr20mofo

iTrader: (10)

technically from furthest to closest doesnt apply anymore with modern car's with ABS(I looked it up) however old timers swear by this. but we did eventually do it this way when the first couple of bleeds didnt work with the same results at the end. this isnt my first time ive done this, it was however my little brother's(sc300jz) first time. like i said in the earlier posts, we've gone through 3 big bottles with no signs of air, checked/double/triple/quadruple checked everything(4hrs of checking) with no signs of leakage. which was weird cuz fluid was splattered in the inner tire lining in a rotational way. this swap puzzles my mind how i thought we've done everything right but went soo wrong. so at the end it was just trapped stubborn air pockets that didnt want to come out!

I want to say thank you guys for all the help and advices.

Tom

dwebb99

iTrader: (17)

.....the air pockets were trapped in your MC my friend.....please for the love of god, close this thread........

5sp_jzz30

iTrader: (2)

since out cars have the abs unit on the pass side the "standard" bleeding order does not apply. the wheel closest to the abs unit and thus the master cylinder as well, since everything goes from MC to ABS, is the right front.

for our cars the proper order is: RR, LR, RF, LF

CCC-TT

iTrader: (1)

master cylinder O-rings! buy a re-maned master cylinder and be on your way. After the install, bleed it all for a while and you'll be good to go.

RyanV

iTrader: (9)

I installed all 4 TT brake calipers, and my pedal is mushy as well.

I rebuilt the brake master with an OEM rebuild kit(SUPER EASY), and I also bench bled the crap out of the brake master.

I had a friend come over and pump the brakes while we did furthest to closest to the master cylinder, and nadda...If I pump the pedal all 4 brakes hit hard for a second, but then it pushes past that, then the front brakes catch hard near the end of the pedal stroke.

I might have someone bleed the system with a machine to see if it makes a difference.