DIY Daizen Bushing Install Tips
#16
I think a drill bit may work but it would be a PIA and take a lot of time... Getting the metal sleeve out is going to be very difficult with a hacksaw. An air hammer with a chisel bit is the way to go.
Good luck...
Good luck...
#17
Because getting the rubber out isn't really the hard part. It's the metal sleeve. Trust me I've seen both methods. Having it pressed out so MUCH faster/cleaner. The metal sleeve is what's hard.
#19
He had a 20 Ton. I dont know if 10 ton is good enough, but it should be, at least for there upper and lower control arms.
The caster bushing took the longest. I think it took around 15-20 minutes (pair) to remove and install the new bushings, but then again, he's been doing a lot of GS bushings so its nothing new. The upper and lower control arms are a piece of cake compared to the caster. They shouldn't take more than 5-10 min each.
The caster bushing took the longest. I think it took around 15-20 minutes (pair) to remove and install the new bushings, but then again, he's been doing a lot of GS bushings so its nothing new. The upper and lower control arms are a piece of cake compared to the caster. They shouldn't take more than 5-10 min each.
#20
A 10 ton should be enough..... If you have used a press before it wil take 10 minutes or so to setup the press correctly. I used a large socket (smaller than the diameter of the metal sleeve) to press the rubber bushing out.
Once the press is setup it should not take more than 5 minutes per bushing to press out the rubber portion..
It takes 10-15 minutes to get the metal sleeve out using an air hammer with chisel bit...
Once the press is setup it should not take more than 5 minutes per bushing to press out the rubber portion..
It takes 10-15 minutes to get the metal sleeve out using an air hammer with chisel bit...
#24
The thing is why I say to use an air chisel is that when you start hammering them out you risk bending the arms. An air chisel wont bend them but will still knock them out just like a hammer.
#26
yes it can work, but torching the rubber wont help much since. The biggest problem is getting the metal sleeves out. The way the stock control bushings are is a metal sleeve with rubber inside.
#29
The easiest way to get the stock bushing out of the #2 lower control (caster) arm is to use a hole saw and cut out the bushing's rubber center section. Next, use a hack saw and cut through the remaining metal sleeve, which is about 1/16" thick. Now use a hammer and chisel to knock out the metal sleeve.
#30
iposthere... I think your write is pretty impressive for a DIY... Unfortunately the bushing kit is on national backorder according to Sewell lexus. I've heard by another member that this kit will get rid of the clunkiing noise that we experience when braking and turning that most of us have.
Did you have this issue? Since you were at the upper control arm did you replace the upper ball joint as well? I'm wondering why the kit doesn't come with that? I wold think that this is where the clunk and popping sound come from.
Thanks
Tony
Did you have this issue? Since you were at the upper control arm did you replace the upper ball joint as well? I'm wondering why the kit doesn't come with that? I wold think that this is where the clunk and popping sound come from.
Thanks
Tony