how many have camber kits?
#1
how many have camber kits?
i have a 2000 gs300 dropped on h and r springs with bilestein shocks. i just got some 19 monarch 410s. im looking for tires right now to put on.
my tire size would be 245/35/19 and 275/30/19
so as i was asking for tires at a local store they kept mentioning about a camber kit.
i would assume my wheels would camber a little bit but would i really require a camber kit?
and if i dont drive to aggressive how many miles would i get out of some falken 452s?
can anyone help me out?
thanks in advance
my tire size would be 245/35/19 and 275/30/19
so as i was asking for tires at a local store they kept mentioning about a camber kit.
i would assume my wheels would camber a little bit but would i really require a camber kit?
and if i dont drive to aggressive how many miles would i get out of some falken 452s?
can anyone help me out?
thanks in advance
#2
Camber kit for front or rear? And driving on really bad camber will go through a set of tires in about 5k miles. Driving on slightly off camber, you can probably get 10-15k on a set of performance summer tires. I usually replace my tires every 3-4k miles, but it's not due to camber wear
Also, toe affects tire wear more than camber. If the alignment guy knows what he's doing then he can prolong the life of your tires even riding with a little bit of neg camber.
Also, toe affects tire wear more than camber. If the alignment guy knows what he's doing then he can prolong the life of your tires even riding with a little bit of neg camber.
#3
I have a set of Bridgestones with a decent treadwear rating and as soon as I dropped my car about 1.5" it only took a few months (few thousand miles) to destroy the inner part of my rear tires... bald on the inner 3 or 4 inches. And I don't drive it like it's stolen either. Needless to say, I'm ordering a camber kit asap, LOL.
A shop will be able to take care of any toe issues, but any significant drop on OEM suspension... they won't get anywhere near factory spec. on camber
A shop will be able to take care of any toe issues, but any significant drop on OEM suspension... they won't get anywhere near factory spec. on camber
Last edited by MJImport; 01-13-09 at 09:27 AM.
#4
man that sux...I was planning to drop my car this week too. 1.2 inches drop in back and 2.0 inches drop in front. No way I wanna go through tires... and I drive like it's stolen.
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#8
Yes the RCAs are those blocks. However I wouldn't call them camber kits because they dont fix camber unless you have coilovers. With springs, you may increase negative camber for the front (rears are set up differently)
#11
Where do you find adjustable RCA and what's the cost?
From my research I found the Night Pager Roll Center Adapter (RCA) on www.rhdjapan.com. I have my car down to a finger gap in the front and back during the summer which gives me a bit of a dicey ride for a Lexus; winter I have a 2+ finger gap and the ride is pretty close to stock. The RCA actually lowers the car 20-35mm depending on the brand so you can raise the coilover back to where is should be, increase the sprung weight to the manufacturer' spec, bring the alignment within spec, and improve the ride. I consider this a must for my car next summer.
https://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm/Night-P...1-Aristo-50246
As far as camber kits, I tend to think with a mild drop will let you stay within spec and you wouldn't need one. You might call the guys at Carson.
http://www.l-tunedparts.com/model/st...d=7&model_id=8
Again, I understand the application but it does appear coilovers benefit from this more than sping/shock combos. As far as camber kits, Carson has ALL kinds of loot but the price tag is pretty steep, IMO, but Carson always carries the best of the best. Their brand of choice appears to be a Japanese brand, FOOTWORKS.
Last edited by ZippyGuy; 01-22-09 at 06:32 PM.
#12
7/16'' will fit the bolt. 1/2'' will fit the race or whatever that aluminum thing is...the one sticking out next to the single washer.
using three washer 1/2'' (just use a good steel one; cheap) will probably give clearance on the bbk. Of course you may need longer bolts.
---asuming someone wants to go cheap!
sand the 1/2'' a bit.
Last edited by sam430; 01-22-09 at 09:30 PM.
#13
Having the 3 washers in there wont do a thing because the knuckle sits on top of the balljoint. The 1 spacer you have in the picture is where spacing should be, except you'll want the metal sleeve because that's what steers the knuckle. The bolts are already holding up the car...adding sheering force to it will stress out the bolts even further.
#14
Having the 3 washers in there wont do a thing because the knuckle sits on top of the balljoint. The 1 spacer you have in the picture is where spacing should be, except you'll want the metal sleeve because that's what steers the knuckle. The bolts are already holding up the car...adding sheering force to it will stress out the bolts even further.
Yep! you are right. That's why I mentioned 1/2" washers ...the picture didn't represent what I wanted to say. Plus, I didn't have the 1/2'' washers. I already have the custom block. And yes, the 1/2'' will fit the metal sleeves with just minor sanding of the inner circle of the washer (don't sand metal sleeve). I wouldn't recommend putting more than two washers unless you can extend the metal sleeves. The bolt will have too much room to play in place of where the metal sleeves is suppose to go into.
The washer is for the custom block because my bolts are too long. And thanks again for the bolt lenght info.
Oh,...for people considering this...you must use 12.9 grade bolts.
Last edited by sam430; 01-22-09 at 10:49 PM.