Suspension and Brakes Springs, shocks, coilovers, sways, braces, brakes, etc.

Correcting the suspension geometry.

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Old 02-13-09, 09:42 AM
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PHML
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Originally Posted by Coco-bun
As for shock travel, I don't see why I would want to limit the travel of a suspension...if a shock is meant to move, why limit it? I'm a suspension noob so just curious. Feel free to shed me some light here.
So true. On the some coilovers systems, to drop the car, you basically are compressing the springs, thus compressing the fluids in the shock tube and essentially limiting the shock's travel range. I feel this is the main reason my Tein CS are blown.

My new coilovers allows for 2 ways to lower the car....either compress the springs (like above) or adjust the bottom mounting tube. I chose the latter. By adjusting the bottom mounting tube...I leave the spring and shock travel untouched....as it was intended by the manufacturer.

Btw...I was still able to slam it down...actually, my car was sitting on my tires (need to shave fenders)....LMAO!!!

Note, I am on 20s...with RCAs, but I still had alot of threads to lower even more.

CK6speed can verify this.

Pete



Old 02-13-09, 09:47 AM
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Alexus_300
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Originally Posted by Coco-bun
I really could care less about putting my suspension geometry within factory spec but I want my alignment to be close to it. I'm running -2.6 of camber now and seeing the inside of the tires wear makes me worry when I think that I only have that much contact patch instead of using the entire width of the wheel (toe and caster are within factory spec).

As for shock travel, I don't see why I would want to limit the travel of a suspension...if a shock is meant to move, why limit it? I'm a suspension noob so just curious. Feel free to shed me some light here.
When I meant trying to get your suspension geometry back to factory spec, I meant to change your suspension so that you can utilize some of the factory spec. You might wonder why I said that. If you haven't notice, toyota engineers spent countless hours and dollars to setup the GS suspension and they are pretty close to perfecting it. What is the purpose of lowering your car you might ask? Well, the first reason is to lower your CG's, and then to change your roll center. But when you do this, you gotta make sure that you have the freedom of having a broad range of adjustment. The biggest problem when slamming your car like you've notice is that your contact patch with the road is limited because of your camber and toe. Therefore, in order to correct this problem, you either have to raise your car or modify your lower control arms to correct this problem. I think that my car is optimally lowered where I feel that it's at the best setting for my driving characteristic. I run about -1.6 degree camber front and +3.5 degree of caster for better turn in's. In the rear, I have my camber set at -1.2 degree.
Old 02-13-09, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by MJImport
Alexus 300, when you say a 2" drop would not prevent you from adjusting back to factory, do you mean the toe? or camber also? I dropped my gs on Tein SS and its as high as it will go (about 1.25 to 1.5") and it is well beyond factory spec. Maybe the shop I took it to don't know shat.
What I meant is that with the height given in prior post, you can still utilize your factory alignment spec. While I have no experience with Tein SS, I just hate the way that they are engineered. It's the worst engineering design that I've seen in a while because of cost reason. With the Tein SS, in order to change your ride height, you're gonna have to change your spring load. This is bad because when you are trying to lower your car, you're actually compressing the spring load beyond what they are designed for. When this happens, you have less shock travel which results in blown shocks overtime which I've heard alot of people with Tein coilover experiencing. What you want in a coilover is for the shock to have full travel so that it can utilize it's compression and rebound design. I'm not sure if you get what I'm saying as it's alot to digest..
Old 02-13-09, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by PHML

Note, I am on 20s...with RCAs, but I still had alot of threads to lower even more.

CK6speed can verify this.

Pete

Wow pete, I hope you never drive your car aggressively. One deep pothole and you can call it over for your wheels and fender well.
Old 02-13-09, 10:00 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Alexus_300
What I meant is that with the height given in prior post, you can still utilize your factory alignment spec. While I have no experience with Tein SS, I just hate the way that they are engineered. It's the worst engineering design that I've seen in a while because of cost reason. With the Tein SS, in order to change your ride height, you're gonna have to change your spring load. This is bad because when you are trying to lower your car, you're actually compressing the spring load beyond what they are designed for. When this happens, you have less shock travel which results in blown shocks overtime which I've heard alot of people with Tein coilover experiencing. What you want in a coilover is for the shock to have full travel so that it can utilize it's compression and rebound design. I'm not sure if you get what I'm saying as it's alot to digest..
This is why Tein coilovers suck if you want to go low. It's a terrible design.
Old 02-13-09, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by chrispy
This is why Tein coilovers suck if you want to go low. It's a terrible design.
Im with you on that!!!

Think about it. How many coilovers manufacturers have a dedicated page on their website....entirely for re-building / overhauling their coilovers? Clearly bad engineering/design.

But they have a great marketing dept...made us buy them, right?
Old 02-13-09, 10:34 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Alexus_300
Wow pete, I hope you never drive your car aggressively. One deep pothole and you can call it over for your wheels and fender well.
No...my car was actually sitting on the fenders and on my low-profile hydraulic jack...it got stuck under there as well...and i needed another hydraulic jack to raise up by the tow hooks enough to slide the first one out.

Im back up again...about 1 finger gap.
Old 03-06-09, 08:23 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Alexus_300
What I meant is that with the height given in prior post, you can still utilize your factory alignment spec. While I have no experience with Tein SS, I just hate the way that they are engineered. It's the worst engineering design that I've seen in a while because of cost reason. With the Tein SS, in order to change your ride height, you're gonna have to change your spring load. This is bad because when you are trying to lower your car, you're actually compressing the spring load beyond what they are designed for. When this happens, you have less shock travel which results in blown shocks overtime which I've heard alot of people with Tein coilover experiencing. What you want in a coilover is for the shock to have full travel so that it can utilize it's compression and rebound design. I'm not sure if you get what I'm saying as it's alot to digest..
Sorry for the late response... I'm an engineer and car guy so I definitely agree with you on the Tein design, initial cost was definitely a concern when I was first shopping for coilovers, which is why I went with the reasonably priced Teins. Although I have no issues yet, I'm sure when I drop further I could have issues with shock longevity.
Old 03-06-09, 11:51 PM
  #24  
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Tein blows!! PHML can attest to that
Old 03-07-09, 01:31 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by GSteg
Tein blows!! PHML can attest to that
Yes and no...if its the coilovers systems whereby lowering car height by compressing the springs...then yes...it blows....literally...LMAO!!!

If spring/shock setup with NO adjustable height...then its a good performer.
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