Great write up.

My only suggestion is to replace the C-clamp w/ a special tool designed to compress the piston on the caliper. This is a cheap version and should cost under $10.


The only reason I suggest this is that it puts even pressure on the entire piston by placing the compression point at the center rather than just one side.

 

On further inspection of your photos you could accomplish the same effect by reversing the C-clamp and placing the point at the center of the piston rather than the edge. Assuming of course there is clearance for the C-clamp to attach this way.

 

Like I said earlier, you can just leave the brakpad that is on the piston side and use the clamp...no need to find the tool or buy one! But I agree about the uneven pressure thing...

Thanks for posting the pic.

 

I didn't read all the responses and did not see yours.

You should "turn" the rotors whenever the brake pads are changed. You should be able to take them to any Auto Zone type store to have them turned. Cost is about $20-$25. They also must be within a thickness tolerance spec. or they will not turn them and you will have to replace them. It you do not turn them and they are worn the new brake pads will not last as long an my not perform as designed and specified. I have replaced brake pads w/o turning the rotors on one vehicle once and did not experience any problems. My pads were changed @ 5000 miles on my IS two weeks ago. I assume that due to the low milaege Lexus did not turn the rotors.

 

Links to IS350 Brake Pad Change:
Front:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...g-caliper.html
Rear:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-stickers.html

 

JAVY is DA MAN !

 

Or you can use a small piece of wood with the c clamp/pliers to evenly distribute the pressure.

 

Goooooood Job!

 

Nice write up Javier!I'll bake you some brownies, and you can install my brakes and side turn signal mirrors.

 

First of all, great job. This was DIY was for the front brakes, but is it the same procedure for the back brakes?

 

 

The top 14mm bolt for the capiler don't need to be remove. Once the lower one is remove the capiler should just swing up. Btw still a nice write up.

 

There's no need to resurface rotors unless they are damaged or deeply scored. Resurfacing is just a quick way to get new rotors on the car.
That would be true if there wasn't a dust shield behind the disc. That was the first thing I tried, but the dust shield prohibits the caliper from swinging up or down.

Javier

 

awesome.. now do one for installing new studs!

 

That's how I always try first. Doesn't always work though.

+1. The only thing I would do is measure the disc to be sure it's not below minimum thickness. From the pics, that disc looks perfect for a pad swap, but without measuring, you can't be 100%.

Nice write up Javy!